We really do want everyone to enjoy their office party, friends’ get-together, Christmas shopping pitstop and joyous/fraught family gathering. We genuinely want every customer that graces us with their presence at this most magical time of year to enter and leave our establishments full of festive cheer. Not least because the run-up to Christmas is crucial for hospitality – this is when we (hopefully) squirrel away bumper takings to get us through the bleak midwinter of January and early February.

None of which makes it easier to deal with the seasonal plague that is ADS – Amateur Drinking Syndrome. It’s our bread and butter dealing with those who have had a good night out and sometimes a few too many, but come Christmas there’s a painfully challenging spike in the tired and emotional drinker.

We appreciate that not everyone has the same alcohol tolerance, and that often those who choose not to drink for the rest of the year – birthdays and anniversaries aside – often decide to have a tipple or two come Christmas. But – in the same way that I wouldn’t recommend a whole raw scotch bonnet pepper to someone whose normal experience of spice is a mild korma – someone who normally sips half a lager and only has one small glass of red with their main course deciding to preload, hard, with G&Ts, then to segue into Champagne before sampling wines of every grape and colour, and deciding that it’s finally time to try plum eau-de-vie for the first time, is misguided. I’ve watched this happen, repeatedly, and it’s never pretty.

In my long and undistinguished career I’ve seen what mishandled festive cheer can do. I’ve witnessed diners passed out face-down in dinner plates on the first course into a 10-course tasting menu with paired wines, narrowly avoided someone staggering into a flambé trolley as the alcohol was being ignited, and have had to spoon countless customers into cabs as they were beyond the ability to hold, let alone focus on, their phones.

Of course it’s all part of the service, but a little more pacing and little less haste would mean everyone having a better time. As a sage Basque bartender once told me midway through a crawl through the streets of San Sebastián: ‘Never eat without drinking, never drink without eating.’ Always remember that aggressive preloading on an empty stomach is the root cause of the majority of grisly ADS incidents.

Christmas comes but once a year, it’s true, but there’s a lot of it to get through. So please pace yourselves better than the average hospitality worker does come their January Christmas party… but that, of course, is another story.

Joe Warwick is head of hospitality for Cubitt House, which runs eight luxurious London pubs with restaurants.

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Digital snowflakes fill the screen, the Saturday Kitchen theme tune fills the air and I am proudly wearing a Christmas shirt, waving at a camera on a crane with merry chefs and a festive celebrity. Almost every week, this BBC stalwart show, produced for the past 18 years by Cactus TV, is broadcast live to a UK audience on Saturday morning. With Matt Tebbutt at the helm, and me and former wine buyer Helen McGinn sharing drinks duties, it’s been a huge part of my life since 2006. While the Christmas show is sometimes a rare pre-record, without question live broadcasting is the most thrilling part of presenting wine on TV. With Matt’s skills as a chef, and the team backing us up in the gallery via earpiece, it’s not so much Dancing on Ice as Walking in the Air. But since it’s live on air, how much planning goes into it?

Careful selection

Saturday Kitchen presenter and chef Matt Tebbutt with comedian Chris McCausland

To answer that question, let me introduce you to Amanda Ross, co-founder and CEO of Cactus TV, who produces the show every week and has transformed the way we think about wine on TV. ‘For Saturday Kitchen, casting is key,’ says Amanda. ‘For wine, we can totally trust that Olly and Helen will find the best things in the budget range for the viewers. In rehearsal, I ask them the questions people at home want answered.’

The context of drinks on the show counts for a huge amount and the food pairing is taken very seriously. Unless the recipe involved is as straightforward as steak, I cook it at home to make sure the pairing works and also to get inside the head of the viewer to anticipate and prepare for any questions that may arise. Whenever there’s a chance to champion a lesser-known grape variety or up-and-coming region, I’ll seize it
in the name of both good value and to embolden our viewers’ exploration of wine.

As regular Decanter readers may know, I am deeply passionate about the wines of Greece and (with the exception of the pandemic years) have visited a different region every year across the mainland and islands for the past 30 years. Not long ago, when Rick Stein cooked Greek pasticcio live on Saturday Kitchen, I selected a Xinomavro by a favourite winemaker of mine, Apostolos Thymiopoulos, stocked by Majestic (Alc 13%, 2020 £15.99) – it’s a grape variety that is sublimely deft and savoury, somewhere between Nebbiolo and Pinot Noir in style. The impact nationwide was huge, prompting Majestic to put out a press release with the title ‘Saturday Kitchen Mention Creates Greek Wine Surge’, explaining: ‘Thymiopoulos Xinomavro saw a rise of 1,800% in sales against previous weekends – the equivalent of over three months’ worth of sales in a single morning – and has been out of stock since. As such, some Majestic stores were forced to introduce waiting lists for the red wine ahead of Christmas.’ That impact on wine felt pretty special to be part of, and illustrates why Amanda takes the responsibility about what or who we promote on the show very seriously.

Budget conscious

Cameras in place on set prior to broadcast

Food portions in recipes are costed on the show, and for drinks our brief is to stick to the high street and – special occasions excepted – keep to three price points: under £10, under £8 and under £6. There is a review on these prices underway as we go to print, to reflect the hike in UK duty on wines in August and challenges with inflation, so watch this space. The under £6 is increasingly challenging, but gives an opportunity to include cider, beer, non-alcoholic options and cocktails.

At Christmas, the budget rises. I seem to remember one Christmas with Nigella Lawson as our guest recommending Chateau Musar to pair with a turkey recipe. We also extend the budget if we cover a specific drinks theme, for instance as I did recently on English wine with bottles from Chapel Down, Hoffmann & Rathbone and Oastbrook all featuring around the £20 mark.

Getting to the point where the wine is actually on screen nationally, critiqued live in the studio, takes a fair bit of effort and involves retailers, PRs, couriers and the production team. Once the wine has been chosen to match each dish, a minimum of four sample bottles are called in so we have one each to pour for the rehearsal and live show, with an unopened bottle to film a bottle shot and an extra bottle in reserve in case of breakage or a wine being out of condition.

Lights, camera, action

The show’s main presenter Matt Tebbutt with producer Amanda Ross

When Amanda introduced wine experts into the Saturday Kitchen studio, it was ‘to properly join the on-screen family, because a 90-minute show like this needed to feel more inclusive – we are entering everyone’s home and at the same time welcoming people at home into our kitchen’.

The balance which I try to strike between entertainment and education is always at the forefront of my mind. I have a chance to remind the world how wine can feel transformative, thrilling and engaging alongside great food, in good company. And that reflects the mood in the studio. I’m happy to confirm the rumour that the camera crew dive in to taste every dish and that veteran crew member Phil Lofthouse always carries a fork in his back pocket, earning him the moniker ‘Phil the Fork’. Amanda is quick to remind everyone on the show that if we enjoy it, so will everybody at home and this fosters genuine camaraderie on and off screen.

I keep a very strict routine preparing for the show. On a Friday night, I’ll travel up to London on the train with an outfit packed and ready for a 5.30am start next day in time for rehearsals, which usually kick off around 6.45am at the Cactus studios in Clapham. After a quick visit to make-up we rehearse the entire show, cook every dish and pair the wine while a member of the production team stands in for our celebrity guest to suggest likely topics. And if unexpected material presents itself, Matt and I will closely liaise with the production team in the gallery.

Olly Smith with Gary Barlow

It’s more meticulous than you might imagine and relies on a certain ruthlessness when things don’t work. If, for instance, an item over-runs, the show has to trim back elsewhere. It’s a live show and sometimes things go wrong – for instance, when chef Michel Roux was once hosting the show and the wine hadn’t been placed on set, I spontaneously improvised the world’s first invisible wine tasting live on air. These moments serve to remind the viewers we are broadcasting live, and of course on that occasion we made sure the full details of that wine were shared both on the show and via social media.

As far as wine goes, whether it’s Take That’s Gary Barlow joining us to discuss his love of wine or chefs such as Anna Haugh bringing out her own wine range, the Christmas show is a perfect opportunity to remind how spending even a couple more quid can hugely impact the quality in the bottle – a concern I’m all too aware the wine trade shares. And as for me, sharing my love of wine on national television for nearly two decades – it feels like Christmas every week.

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Anne Krebiehl MW, Justin Knock MW and Dirceu Vianna Junior MW tasted 134 wines, with 12 outstanding, 100 highly recommended and 20 recommended.

New World Pinot Noir part II: Panel tasting scores

134 wines tasted

Exceptional 0

Outstanding 12

Highly recommended 100

Recommended 20

Commended 1

Fair 1

Poor 0

Entry criteria: Producers and UK agents were invited to submit their current-release, dry, still 100% Pinot Noir red wines with a minimum retail price of £30 in the UK or equivalent in their domestic market

In a three-day Pinot Noir marathon in late September, we three judges tasted 273 premium examples from North and South America, Australasia and South Africa. There were so many high-scorers – 215 at 90 points or more – that we had to split the results. The wines from Canada, US, Argentina, Chile and Uruguay featured in last month’s November issue, while it is now time for Australia, New Zealand and South Africa to shine.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores from the New World Pinot Noir panel tasting

Australia, New Zealand & South Africa Pinot Noir: Panel tasting scores

The judges

Anne Krebiehl MW is a widely published writer, award-winning author and lecturer with a particular focus, among others, on Pinot Noir and traditional- method sparkling wines from around the globe.

Justin Knock MW is director of wine for luxury merchant Decant London, and has a background in winemaking, brand and generic marketing, education, consultancy and fine wine retail. An Australian national, he was a director of the California Wine Institute UK, and is currently a DWWA joint Regional Chair for Australia.

Dirceu Vianna Junior MW is a wine writer, consultant and educator. Based in the UK since 1989, he was a director at some of the UK’s top distributors. After becoming a Master of Wine in 2008, he co-authored the awarded book Conheça Vinhos (‘Understanding Wine’, in Portuguese).

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Being ‘the first’, in whichever discipline or achievement, comes with a considerable responsibility. The burden of the future falls upon the shoulders of those willing and able to lead the way and open new possibilities. This could certainly be said of Protos, the producer that forged the identity of the now iconic DO Ribera del Duero.

Founded in 1927 as ‘Bodega Ribera Duero’, the company relinquished its trademark so that the denomination could bear its most meaningful name. This expressed a general belief in the region’s potential to become a leading source of world class wines, with a unique sense of place. The company’s founders easily realised that only by driving the potential of many could they forge their own sense of identity and achievement.

Almost 100 years on, this connection to the land and people that provide context to the wines produced by Protos remains at the core of the company’s ethos. As does a smart awareness to how consumers share and appreciate each bottle, now and in the future.

The line-up presented at Decanter’s LFWE showcased the scope of the Protos project today – one that has built upon tradition while remaining animated by a pioneering spirit, committed to innovation and attuned to consumer needs. Attendees had the opportunity to taste through some of the brand’s most recognisable labels, while also discovering some of Protos’ most recent creations and projects, some of which focus on forgotten and/or underestimated varieties, DOs and styles.

The takes on DO Rueda and DO Cigales are a perfect example of the latter; a refreshing, food friendly Verdejo and a dark-hued pink, with lots of personality, at the forefront of a revival of the traditional Spanish rosés (Claretes), made for the pleasures of the table. Wine as an inevitable companion to food is a common theme across the Protos range. The organic-certified Protos 9 meses – produced exclusively for the on-trade and soon to be released in the UK – embodies this principle, delivering a perfect balance of drinkability and structure at particularly good value.

Elegance, finesse and poise ripple through the Crianza, Reservas and Gran Reserva on show, all of which, once again, underscore Protos’ commitment to producing the most representative styles of Ribera del Duero in a classical and approachable manner.

Fearless and risk-taking yet consistent and recognisable: words that can be used to sum up the identity of Bodegas Protos. And which also justify why LFWE attendees look forward to meeting the producer at the event, year on year, with much anticipation.

Protos wines at the London Fine Wine Encounter 2023

Protos Verdejo DO Rueda 2022
88 points
100% Verdejo; 13% abv
Very fresh and approachable, with a fleshy core of white orchard fruit, melon and pineapple lifted by juicy lemon and lime zest. Herbal nuances of wild fennel and thyme add a very pleasant savoury edge. Three months on the lees have lent it a perceptible texture and weight on the mid-palate, adding to this Verdejo’s gastronomic appeal.

Protos Clarete DO Cigales 2022
89 points
95% Tempranillo, 5% Syrah and Merlot; 13% abv
A good example of the revival of this traditional style of deep-hued rosado, which deserves a place at any table, garden party or barbecue. Peach, cranberry, sour cherry and wild strawberries mingle on the palate, carried by a fine acid line. Very refreshing but also quite generous and textured. Good finish, with a lingering touch of pink grapefruit.

Protos Roble DO Ribera del Duero 2022
89 points
100% Tempranillo; 14% abv
Vibrant and perfumed nose with luscious aromas of violets, blackberry, black cherry and damson. The palate echoes these aromas, with juicy vibrancy and bright acidity. A fine layer of sweet spice adds refreshing energy. Delicious, chocolatey finish. A great everyday drinker.

Protos 9 meses DO Ribera del Duero 2021
90 points
100% Tempranillo; 14% abv
Produced exclusively for the on-trade this is a versatile wine, approachable yet structured, perfect as a by-the-glass listing. The fruit is fleshy and soft, with red and black berries mingling on the lively palate. The tannins are robust and soft, underscoring the savouriness of dried herbs, cocoa nibs and cocoa beans – all of which linger in the every pleasant finish. Organic certified.

Protos 27’ DO Ribera del Duero 2020
92 points
100% Tempranillo; 14% abv
A modern interpretation of traditional Ribera del Duero, very classy, balanced and poised. The depth of the black cherry, blackberry, plum and blueberry fruit is framed by a lovely structure of fine yet firm tannins. A touch of red apple adds a pleasant, refreshing crunch to the palate. This is offset by the savouriness of dried thyme, rosemary and toasted walnuts, sprinkled with cinnamon and cloves.

Protos Crianza DO Ribera del Duero 2019
91 points
100% Tempranillo; 14% abv
Having spent more than one year in bottle prior to release, there’s a distinct softness to this perfumed and alluring Crianza. Seductive aromas of plums, crushed roses and liquorice lead the way, followed by blackberry, cherry and dark chocolate. Elegant tannins, very poised but with an assertive grip. Delicious spicy finish, with lingering vanilla, cinnamon and nutmeg.

Protos Reserva 5ºAño DO Ribera del Duero 2018
92 points
100% Tempranillo; 14% abv
Produced with fruit hailing from 70-year-old vines, this is a wine of great expressiveness and concentration. Intense and alluring nose of blackberry, liquorice, Earl Grey-poached plum, vanilla and cedar. Structured palate, with firm, medium-grained tannins. Long finish with lingering black pepper, sage, wild oregano and tobacco box. Outstanding ageing potential.

Protos Gran Reserva DO Ribera del Duero 2015
93 points
100% Tempranillo; 14% abv
The softness and complexity of the nose are the perfect opening for a complex, layered and structured wine, showing elegant development but still with potential for further cellaring. A fleshy layer of black and dried fruit fills the palate, topped by intense dark chocolate, tobacco leaf and charred oak. Tannins are fine but robust, marked by the wood structure. Very long finish, with lingering herbal and balsamic notes.

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Petit Chablis 2022

Top-scoring Petit Chablis 2022

The wines below all scored 90 points or above. 

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This year sees the release of the 2020 vintage of Masi’s Campofiorin, with a bright restyling of its iconic label and a fine-tuning of its vinification. It is the latest stage in an evolutionary journey which began almost 60 years ago, with the ground-breaking 1964 vintage.

The origins of Masi’s innovative ‘Super Venetian’ Campofiorin go back to the traditional practice of ‘ripasso’, the refermenting of new vintage Valpolicella on the fresh, moist pomace of Amarone. The complex transformation that follows produces a wine that acquires structure and aroma from the pressed skins of the Amarone, while retaining the freshness of the younger wine: a rural practice that is, in the words of Masi President Sandro Boscaini, ‘simple but at the same time ingenious.’

That first vintage of Campofiorin came out in 1967 and was met with immediate critical acclaim. Burton Anderson described it as ‘a prototype for a new style of Veronese red’, and so the much emulated Campofiorin proved to be in the years that followed. Fast-forwarding to the 1980s, a period of intensive research at Masi which led to a fundamental change in the vinification of Campofiorion. The challenge was to maintain the wine’s authentic character, but with a more refined profile. The solution? Referment young Valpolicella on partially dried grapes rather than the pommace of Amarone, a technique which became known as ‘Masi’s double fermentation’.

Balance reinterpreted

Jumping forward again, the newly released 2020 sees a further evolution of Masi’s flagship wine. Technically, the 2020 represents an update, rather than a revolution, aimed at meeting modern tastes for ripe fruit flavours and smooth textures. Fine-tuning of the winemaking shifts the balance between the freshness of the young Valpolicella and the richness of the partially dried grape in the direction of the latter. There is a small increase in the percentage of Corvina in the blend, the base wine is harvested a little later for slightly lower acidity and softer tannins and the percentage of partially dried grapes in the refermentation passes from 25% to 30%. The label, designed specifically for the launch of the 2020 vintage, is a sophisticated revisitation of an Italian classic, reframing the charm of the original baroque motifs against a modern graphic background, with ‘Campofiorin’ picked out by a delicate gold outline and printed in an elegant raised lettering.

Campofiorin is currently distributed in 140 countries; Masi is probably the most widely distributed Italian producer in the world today. The secret of its extraordinary global success certainly lies in part with the international appeal of the sophisticated Italian lifestyle that it represents, with all its associations with fashion and design. In the glass, it echoes this same elegance, faithfully communicating its terroir in the middle ground between the fresh, dry flavours of a young Valpolicella and the majestic weight and complexity of an Amarone. This in turn makes it a highly adaptable food wine; a perfect companion to a wide array of flavours, delicate and intense alike. The fact that it generously over-achieves for its price point is not to be overlooked, but possibly the key to its enduring popularity is that it is perennially contemporary, as the new 2020 so ably demonstrates, evolving with the times while always remaining true to its identity.

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The star of the show was a bottle of LeNell’s Red Hook Rye 23 Year Old Barrel #1, which sold for $56,250 (£44,814).

That smashed the estimate of $20,000 to $30,000 at Sotheby’s ‘Festive Spirits and American Classics’ auction in the Big Apple.

LeNell Camacho Santa Ana owned a specialist spirits store in the Red Hook area of Brooklyn back in the 2000s.

She regularly embarked upon buying trips to Kentucky, and one of her excursions saw her land four barrels of rye that had been distilled at Bernheim Distillery in Louisville in the early 1980s.

It was used to create LeNell’s Red Hook Rye, which has emerged as one of the most distinctive and sought-after rye bottlings of all time. The 23 Year Old Barrel #1 was signed by Camacho Santa Ana.

Zev Glesta, spirits specialist at Sotheby’s, said it had secured some of the ‘rarest whiskeys that only surface once in a blue moon’ for the auction.

A bottle of Rathskeller Rye 136 Proof 1983 shattered its target of $18,000 to $24,000 by fetching $37,500 (£29,876).

The 24-year-old rye was commissioned by the Seelbach, Louisville’s grandest hotel, in 2007 to commemorate the building’s rich history.

Another highlight was a bottle of D.H. Cromwell 15 Year Old, which sold for $30,000 (£23,900) – $10,000 higher than the upper estimate.

It is one of just 72 bottles of this whiskey, which was produced by Julian ‘Pappy’ Van Winkle III at his Old Commonwealth Distillery.

The whiskey pays tribute to a Milwaukee bar owner called Helen Cromell, who often added a ‘w’ to her name to make it easier to remember.

She became a close friend of Pappy Van Winkle, so this bottling was created in 2000 to honour her memory.

Cromell was nicknamed Dirty Helen for her ‘spicy vocabulary’, and the label bears the letters VGS, short for ‘very good s***’.

Meanwhile, a bottle of Old Rip Van Winkle 25 Year Old 1989 sold for $37,500 (£29,876), which was $7,500 above the upper estimate.

It is the oldest Van Winkle whiskey ever released, nicknamed the ‘Pappy of Pappys’. It is known as the best, rarest and most coveted bottle the Julian Van Winkle III ever produced.

It was released in a run of just 710 bottles back in 2014, and it features some of the last Stitzel-Weller bourbon made at that distillery before it shut down.

A bottle of Van Winkle Special Reserve 19 Year Old Corti Brothers sold for $22,500 (£17,925), while another sold for $20,000 (£15,934).

The Corti brothers ran a gourmet grocery store in Sacramento in the 1980s, which became one of the earliest buyers of Pappy Van Winkle whiskeys.

Owner Darrell Corti is credited with convincing Van Winkle to use a cognac-style bottle, which is now one of the distillery’s hallmarks.

Twelve bottles of A.H. Hirsch sold for a total of $88,750 (£70,725). The highlight was an A.H. Hirsch 19 Year Old bottle from 1974, which fetched $11,875 (£9,462).

A bottle of Michter’s Single Barrel Rye 25 Year Old also beat its upper estimate by selling for $23,750 (£18,923).

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The Aszú wines of the Tokaj region are steeped in history and tradition, being the first noble rot-affected wines in history of which we are aware. The habit has generally been for these wonderful wines to be reserved to go with desserts and, as such, they usually find their way to our table only at the end of the dinner.

But to consign Tokaji Aszú only to the pudding course is missing out on so much potential drinking pleasure. These wines possess a fine balance of aromatics, acidity, flavour intensity, sweetness and dry extract, providing a fulfilling mouthfeel. I would urge readers to explore different ways to taste and match Aszú, along with other sweet styles from Tokaj. And we hope this guide will encourage you to do just that, experimenting with food pairing in what could be considered ‘unconventional’ ways.

Great wines, great pairings

A year ago, Wines of Hungary UK set out to demonstrate just how versatile sweet Tokaji can be, at a special wine and food- matching lunch at Michelin one-star Trivet restaurant in London. The aim was to challenge the accepted criteria – the ‘norm’ in food and wine matching – and to showcase the compatibility of these wines with savoury dishes. As it turned out, the younger Aszús were excellent with lighter dishes, while the wines with more bottle age complemented richer dishes such as game; they also worked wonders with cured meats and cheese. Ultimately, great wines tend to work very well with a wide variety of dishes.

In the pages that follow, 10 of the UK’s leading sommeliers and restaurant specialists share their specific insights into pairing Aszú wines with food (some of the wines may only be found on the restaurant’s wine list). But here we start with a few general tips for matching Aszú with food, based on my own experience.

Firstly, foods high in fat, salt, sugar and acidity, as well as ingredients such as saffron, all complement the sweetness and mineral structure of these wines. Also, consider matching the weight and body of the wine to that of the dish. Include elements that are in contrast to, or resemble the properties of the wine, such as salt to pair with sweetness, paprika and saffron-like spices for similar flavours. Charring or caramelisation goes well with the sweetness and minerality of the wine. Punchy, strong flavours are always good, as long as they are matched with similarly punchy, fuller styles of wine.

Contrasting structures and textures are difficult to match, though when they work they can create truly memorable pairing experiences. For instance, a light wine can work with a bold and rich dish. Equally, spiced pigeon can benefit from pairing with a richly complex aged Aszú.

Enjoy the journey here through different styles of cuisine. Our 10 experts have taken the time to play with the acidity, sweetness, mineral content and body of 10 Tokaji sweet wines (Aszú and Szamorodni), to create dishes that provide a perfect match. Why not read through the results of their endeavours with a glass of Aszú in hand? Then put on your apron, ready to recreate some of them for yourself. Egészségedre!

Head sommelier at Ekstedt, Klearhos Kanellakis matches Royal Tokaji, Aszú Blue Label 5 Puttonyos 2017 with juniper-smoked wild duck

Klearhos Kanellakis

Head sommelier, Ekstedt at the Yard, London SW1A

WINE Royal Tokaji, Aszú Blue Label 5 Puttonyos 2017 (£29.50-£33.95/50cl Jeroboams, Majestic, The Wine Society)
DISH Juniper-smoked wild duck

Royal Tokaji was founded in 1990 by a consortium that included world-renowned author and Decanter columnist Hugh Johnson. Its aim was to bring Tokaji wines back to international attention and it soon became one of the most respected producers in the region ‘We’re very familiar with their wines,’ says Kanellakis. ‘We sell several of their cuvées in our restaurant, and we even serve Eszencia in teaspoons (see All about Aszú) at special times of the year, such as Christmas and Valentine’s Day.

The Blue Label 5 Puttonyos is usually served at Ekstedt with a dessert of smoked apple tart with a glaze made from fermented raspberries. Kanellakis feels that the sweet-sour combination of apples and tangy berries marries perfectly with the wine’s kick of acidity.

To ring the changes, Kanellakis worked with head chef Therese Andersson (who competed in the BBC’s 2022 MasterChef: The Professionals) to match the wine with a savoury dish of juniper-smoked duck. ‘The smokiness of the duck is well balanced by the sweet fruitiness of the wine,’ he explains, ‘and there’s a beetroot purée in the dish that has a sweetness that makes it difficult to pair with dry red wines, but which works beautifully with the sweetness of the Tokaji.’ Kanellakis has been so impressed with the results that the pairing is due to become a regular feature of his autumn menu.

Wine director at Iconic Luxury Hotels group (includes Cliveden House in Berkshire, Chewton Glen in Hampshire), Francesco Gabriele matches Szepsy, Aszú 6 Puttonyos 2017 with Chewton Glen twice-baked cheese soufflé with frisée salad, walnuts and apples

Francesco Gabriele

Wine director, Iconic Luxury Hotels group (includes Cliveden House in Berkshire, Chewton Glen in Hampshire)

WINE Szepsy, Aszú 6 Puttonyos 2017 (£164.95-£190/50cl 9 Elms Wines, AG Wines, Hedonism)
DISHES Chewton Glen twice-baked cheese soufflé with frisée salad, walnuts and apples; Roast gilthead bream with Orkney scallops and salad niçoise.

The long-established Szepsy family’s wines have arguably reached their apogee under the guidance of the current generations of István senior and István junior. Gabriele is a huge fan of their ‘beautiful’ wines. He commends the Aszú, in particular, for its versatility, and paired the 2017 Aszú with two dishes.

The first is one of Chewton Glen’s signatures: a twice-baked cheese soufflé with an accompanying salad that features a combination of bitter, tart and sweet flavours. ‘The combination makes me think of that classic pairing of cheese and chutney,’ says Gabriele, ‘as the wine gives you that sweet-sour fruitiness you’d get from the pickle.’ The bitterness of the frisée leaves and the walnuts provide a welcome counterpoint to the sweetness of the wine, he feels, helping to balance the pairing and prevent it from becoming overwhelmingly rich.

The second pairing, which partners the wine with bream, works slightly differently. ‘The fish is fairly oily,’ explains Gabriele, ‘and the acidity of the wine helps to cut through its richness. ‘Further,’ he continues, ‘the outstanding component of this dish is that it contains caramelised black pepper, and the apricot fruit and sweetness of the wine harmonises beautifully with this spicy element.’

Wine & beverage director at Ynyshir, Rory Eaton matches Balassa, Szamorodni 2021 with Duck liver mousse with Bramley apple, puffed spelt and spelt tuile, smoked eel

Rory Eaton

Wine & beverage director, Ynyshir, Mid Wales (Michelin 2*)

WINE Balassa, Szamorodni 2021 (balassabor.hu)
DISH Duck liver mousse with Bramley apple, puffed spelt and spelt tuile, smoked eel

István Balassa is a relative newcomer to Tokaj, having founded his eponymous winery in 2005 with the aim of creating wines that reveal the intricate details of the region’s terroir.

‘What I really like about Balassa’s wines,’ says Eaton, ‘is that they have balance and freshness, while retaining complexity and sweetness. As a result, I find them really versatile when it comes to pairing them with food.’ Eaton has matched the wine to a complex dish that contains elements that are sweet and sour, but which also plays with texture and temperature. ‘The dish offers a take on the classic pairing of Tokaji and duck liver,’ explains Eaton, ‘but the duck mousse is served cold – it’s halfway between an ice cream and a parfait in terms of texture – and the lighter Szamorodni works well with the temperature of this dish.

‘The apple adds both sweetness and acidity to the dish – elements echoed in the wine – while the puffed spelt, with its toasted character, creates another layer that is almost like the seasoning you get from oak ageing,’ he continues, ‘and this too plays well with the flavours in the wine. ‘Finally,’ he adds, ‘there’s a dusting of smoked eel grated over the dish. A big element of our cooking here is done over fire, and the sweetness of the Tokaji wine harmonises really well with the smoky oak flavours of the fish.’

Sommelier at The Olive Tree Restaurant, Aisling Bury matches Füleky, Aszú 6 Puttonyos 2007 with pineapple cooked over coal, tonka bean parfait, fennel and ‘extra-old’ balsamic vinegar

Aisling Bury

Sommelier, The Olive Tree Restaurant, Bath (Michelin 1*)

WINE Füleky, Aszú 6 Puttonyos 2007 (£71/50cl Amathus Drinks)
DISH Pineapple cooked over coal, tonka bean parfait, fennel and ‘extra-old’ balsamic vinegar.

Getting the right marriage between dish and wine often takes a lot of trial and error, with various elements needing to be adjusted to ensure that the final result is truly harmonious. But, says Bury, in this instance, wine and food hit it off from the start.

‘This pineapple dish is the last on a nine-course menu,’ she says, ‘so I was looking for something that had that “wow” factor, without being cloying or heavy. ‘Tokaji brings both rich history and a sense of luxury to what should be the pinnacle of the meal, but it also helps refresh your palate despite the opulence of the mouthfeel.’ Both the flavours of the wine – unusual in that it is made only from the Hárslevelu grape rather than the more usual Furmint – and its structure lent themselves to the match.

‘You want something sweet enough to cope with the sweetness of the dish, but with enough acidity to leave your palate with an overall impression of freshness. This wine does that so well. ‘Also,’ she continues, ‘I wanted to have a wine that harmonised with the flavours of the dessert without replicating them exactly. So here the key flavours are the tonka bean, with its heightened vanilla character, and the pineapple, and the Tokaji brings this wonderful taste of apricots soaked in honey to the match.’

Head sommelier at Trivet, Sofia Crepaz matches Patricius, Aszú 6 Puttonyos 2017 with grilled sweetbreads with smoked maitake mushrooms, pickled lingonberries and wild cumin

Sofia Crepaz

Head sommelier, Trivet, London SE1 (Michelin 1*)

WINE Patricius, Aszú 6 Puttonyos 2017 (£49.95-£56.50/50cl Eton Vintners, Great Wines Direct, NY Wines, The Great Wine Co)
DISH Grilled sweetbreads with smoked maitake mushrooms, pickled lingonberries and wild cumin

Crepaz lists several Tokajis at Trivet, including a lot of dry wines from the region because she believes that they share the minerality and high acidity of a Riesling, with a slightly different flavour profile.

She often pairs a sweet Aszú wine with a complex dessert of Hokkaido potato millefeuille with a sake ganache. ‘It’s not the sweetest of desserts,’ she says, ‘so you need a wine with freshness and minerality like a sweet Tokaji to make it work.’ The wine she selected to pair with a dish of grilled sweetbreads comes from Patricius, whose Aszú 6 Puttonyos 2017 won Platinum in the 2021 Decanter World Wine Awards.

‘The sweetbreads are really quite opulent and fatty,’ Crepaz says, ‘and there’s a very concentrated reduced sauce that adds saltiness. That saltiness is beautifully balanced by the sweetness and minerality of the wine, while the Aszú’s high level of acidity helps to clear the palate from the richness of the sweetbreads, leaving it refreshed and wanting another bite of food.’

The presence of the fermented lingonberries adds little bursts of saltiness, which also provides a counterpoint to the heft of the dish, while the flavour of the berries also chimes nicely with the ripe fruit character of the wine. ‘The final element,’ Crepaz notes, ‘is the spice of the cumin, which helps bring out the spiciness of the wine.’

Head sommelier at Piazza Italiana, Fabrizio Di Pasquale matches Chateau Dereszla, Aszú 5 Puttonyos 2019 with slow-cooked pork belly with Piedmont chestnuts, honey-caramelised onions and Italian herbs

Fabrizio Di Pasquale

Head sommelier, Piazza Italiana, London EC2R

WINE Chateau Dereszla, Aszú 5 Puttonyos 2019 (£36.64/50cl Armit Wines)
DISH Slow-cooked pork belly with Piedmont chestnuts, honey-caramelised onions and Italian herbs

Like many clever sommeliers, Di Pasquale uses Tokaji’s characteristically high levels of acidity as a tool to cut through the richness of high-fat dishes in order to refresh the palate.

‘The slow-cooked pork belly gave this dish a luxuriously unctuous character,’ he says, ‘and the Aszú wine alongside it performed its contrasting role of palate-cleansing with an exhilarating burst of brightness.’ But acidity isn’t the only weapon in the arsenal of Chateau Dereszla, a winery which dates back to 1406. ‘Like many Aszú wines from Tokaj, this cuvée has a kind of earthy, truffled note thanks to the botrytis,’ notes Di Pasquale, ‘and this complemented the earthiness you find in the chestnuts, helping the flavours of wine and food to work harmoniously together.

‘The sweetness of the honey-caramelised onions might have been a bit too demanding for a dry wine,’ he continues, ‘but the sweet Tokaji was more than equal to the challenge. I had originally suggested that the chef should add a twist of saffron to the dish, that would pick up on the saffron flavour in the wine, but the end result would have been too rich.’ Instead, he explains, ‘the herbs performed a similar role to a spice, helping the Aszú wine to lift the palate and ensuring that its flavours of candied pineapple and orange felt even fresher’.

Owner of The Red Lion & Sun, Heath Ball matches Sauska, Aszú 5 Puttonyos 2019 with Singapore chilli lobster

Heath Ball

Owner, The Red Lion & Sun, London N6

WINE Sauska, Aszú 5 Puttonyos 2019 (£30.49-£39.50/50cl Hedonism, The Fine Wine Co, The Great Wine Co)
DISH Singapore chilli lobster

‘Although a good few of our customers have heard of Tokaji,’ says Ball, ‘these are wines you need to recommend. Once guests have tasted them, though, they are absolutely sold.’ Most of the time, Ball recommends Sauska’s Aszú 5 Puttonyos – just one of the winery’s extensive range of wines – as a partner for cheese or desserts, but he’s also keen on pairing it with an explosively flavoursome dish inspired by Singapore’s classic chilli crab.

‘The lobster and the sauce are quite sweet, which means that they rhyme perfectly with the sweetness of the Tokaji,’ explains Ball, ‘while the wine’s sweet lemon sherbet notes and naturally high acidity cut through the richness of the lobster meat.

‘The flavours of dried apricot and mango in the wine, along with a bit of herbaceousness, work so well with the ginger and the chilli in the sauce,’ he continues. ‘This is a dish with a lot of bold flavours, but at the same time it’s not too heavy, so it’s a tricky match. We experimented with other sweet wines, but something was always missing until we realised that the Tokaji created the perfect combination.’

Head sommelier at Chef’s Table and Twenty Eight, Urcino Garcia Hernandez matches Béres, Aszú 5 Puttonyos 2011 with the five gourds

Urcino Garcia Hernandez

Head sommelier, Chef’s Table and Twenty Eight, Chester

WINE Béres, Aszú 5 Puttonyos 2011 (£34.99/50cl Baythorne Wines)
DISH The five gourds

‘I was fortunate enough to visit Béres in 2008,’ says Hernandez, ‘and I really appreciated their modern approach to winemaking. The estate was established in 2002 when József Béres and his wife Klára acquired a 90ha site outside the town of Erdőbénye.

‘The dessert wines are always impressive, and I enjoy their fresh, fruit-forward style, which is very different from the richer, more oxidative traditional style.’ It was a desire to highlight the bright, modern style of this wine that led Hernandez and his chef to pair it with a dish that combined five different kinds of squash and pumpkin – ‘a nod to the 5 Puttonyos of the wine,’ says Hernandez – with a garnish of pumpkin seeds toasted with togarashi (a Japanese spice blend of chilli flakes, seaweed and sesame seeds) and candied pecans.

‘Squash has a natural sweetness, ’explains Hernandez, ‘and it complements the sweetness in the wine. The wine’s residual sugar also works well with the heat of the togarashi spice and that hint of Asian flavours, while the candied pecans, which we scatter in with the seeds, bring out the notes of dried fig, date and sweet almonds in the wine.’

The coup de grâce in the dish is an espuma (vegetable-based foam) dressing based on Colston Bassett Stilton. ‘The inspiration here was the French appreciation of “sucré-salé”, in which the salty flavours of the cheese are offset by the sweetness of the wine,’ says Hernandez.

Wine list consultant at L’Oscar, Doug Wregg matches Hétszőlő, Aszú 5 Puttonyos 2010 with torched wagyu picanha, yakiniku sauce, charred corn salsa, avocado and sesame

Doug Wregg

Wine list consultant, L’Oscar, London WC1B

WINE Hétszőlő, Aszú 5 Puttonyos 2010
DISH Torched wagyu picanha, yakiniku sauce, charred corn salsa, avocado and sesame

Hétszőlő is one of Tokaji’s oldest wineries, with a history that stretches back to the early years of the 16th century. Today, it uses only its own grapes, grown across its 55ha of estates, and is one of the few Hungarian wineries whose production is entirely organic – fully certified since 2017.

Of all Hétszőlő’s many cuvées, Wregg has a soft spot for the 5 Puttonyos, which he believes achieves a perfect balance of sweetness, acidity and low alcohol. These elements, along with a good level of extract, which gives the wine a textural quality, help it to stand up to the strong flavours of a complex dish of seared beef, sweet salsa and an Asian-inspired dressing that combines soy sauce, sesame oil and lemon juice.

‘The sweetness in the wine offsets the strong salty and umami elements in the dish – a case of opposites attracting,’ explains Wregg, ‘while the acidity of the wine means that it isn’t overwhelmed by the tangy lemon juice that is part of the dressing.’ Wregg points out that the combination of sweet wine and savoury dish isn’t quite as unexpected as many would believe. ‘Fruit and spices are often paired with meat in European terrines, as well as sweet and sour dishes from Asia, so it’s really not that surprising that the fruit you find in Aszú wines marries well with savoury dishes.’

Chef-owner of The Counter, Kemal Demirasal matches Zsirai, Aszú 6 Puttonyos 2019 with lamb tartare with bulgur wheat, spices and pomegranate molasses

Kemal Demirasal

Chef-owner, The Counter, London W10

WINE Zsirai, Aszú 6 Puttonyos 2019 (£38.95/50cl Slurp)
DISH Lamb tartare with bulgur wheat, spices and pomegranate molasses

The family-owned Zsirai winery is a relative newcomer to an area rich in viticultural history, but it’s already winning awards for its zesty sweet wines. Demirasal admires this cuvée for its ability to match up to a rich dish which combines lamb with subtly warming spices and the sweet-sour tang of pomegranate molasses.

‘Lamb is naturally high in fat,’ Demirasal points out, ‘but it’s cut by the acidity of the Tokaji. It’s almost as if the sweetness of the wine recedes into the background and its spiciness comes to the fore. ‘The other thing about Tokaji,’ he adds, ‘is that it is a wine with one of the highest levels of dry extract, and that’s one of the things that helps to make it an ideal wine to pair with foods that have an inherent richness.

‘The presence of that extract in the wine lends it texture and body, allowing it to stand up to the weight of the dish, while the spicy notes in the wine chime with the gentle warmth of the spices in the tartare.’ The final element that helps to pull the marriage of wine and food together is the pomegranate molasses, whose sugary sharpness echoes the balance of sweet and sour in the wine itself.

Read more about Tojaj:

Welcome to magical Tokaj

Tokaj – the golden aristocrat of wine regions

All about Aszú

The post A perfect match appeared first on Decanter.

More than 450 years have elapsed since the first known written mention of Tokaji Aszú, and this was the first delimited wine region in the world – in 1737, more than a century before the famed first Classification of Bordeaux’s Left Bank estates in 1855.

Tokaj sits on more than 400 extinct volcanoes in the cool northeast of Hungary. Exquisite noble sweet wines are possible every year thanks to the unique terroir which supports the reliable arrival of ‘noble rot’ each autumn. It’s a scenic place to visit, too – Tokaj has just, in mid-October this year, been named one of the world’s Best Tourism Villages by the World Tourism Organization (UNWTO).

Great with food

Pairing Tokaji Aszú with dessert or cheese is an obvious approach, but Tokaj’s glorious sweet wines are also well suited to enjoy with many more dishes. Even the richest wines always have a lightness and ethereal quality to them, finely balanced between their natural sweetness and vibrant acidity, which is what makes Tokaji wines so versatile with food.

To help inspire readers, we asked several top UK restaurants to recommend food pairings to go with sweet Tokaji wines. We hope you will be guided by their ideas (see A perfect match) and ask for a glass of Aszú or Szamorodni with your main course, and use this expert insight as inspiration to create a special festive treat for your family. #dinewithaszu

December 10th is the annual International Aszú Day, so open a bottle of delicious Tokaji Aszú and join us in saying ‘cheers’ – Egészségedre!

Zsuzsa Toronyi, Wines of Hungary UK

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Read more about Tojaj:

Tokaj – the golden aristocrat of wine regions

A perfect match – Sommeliers pair Tokaj’s sweet wines with savoury courses

All about Aszú

The post Welcome to magical Tokaj appeared first on Decanter.

Best of Hungary, a fine food and wine importer, wholesaler and retailer in the UK, is a family business based in West Wales that works directly with artisan food producers and boutique wineries.

The award-winning retailer has the largest Hungarian wine portfolio in the UK, and is also a purveyor of fine foods including Hungarian truffles, caviar, honey, paprika and more. 

Run by mother and son team, owners Monika and Zoltan have put together a mixed-case selection of DWWA-awarded wines from their homeland, including 96-point sparkling wine, bold reds and outstanding sweet wines from Tokaj. 

Discover the ‘Best of Hungary’ with this exclusive wine offer:

Best of Hungary has selected an exclusive mixed case of DWWA 2022 and 2023 medal winners including sparkling, white, red and sweet wines from four historical wine regions.

Decanter readers can take 5% off site-wide on their first order with the code DECANTER5 at checkout.

The first 15 cases also come with Decanter’s December issue, including a special Tokaj supplement to learn more about the region while sipping on Aszú.

Shop now

or scroll down to see the DWWA award-winning wines on offer

Included in Best of Hungary’s DWWA mixed case

Use the code DECANTER5 at checkout to save 5% site-wide on your first order.

Bolyki, Egri Bikavér, Eger 2018
Bronze, 87 points | DWWA 2022
Nice blackcurrant and plum fruits with a slightly smoky edge. Simple and easy-drinking. Alcohol 13%

Gróf Degenfeld, Aszú 6 Puttonyos, Tokaj 2017
Platinum, 97 points | DWWA 2022
Pristine apricot and ginger jam, peaches and cream, honeysuckle, and orange blossom with a lovely light touch of warming spice. There’s a layer of new Hungarian oak adding toasted, woody notes, and the palate finishes with an assertive and imposing texture. Alc 11%

Kreinbacher, Prestige Brut, Wine of Hungary NV
Gold, 96 points | DWWA 2022
A complex and developed aroma, leading with rich toasty biscuits and nuts, then opening into fresh, ripe lemons. The palate shows vibrancy and offers flavours of fresh apple and quince. The palate is well-structured, with a juicy lemon acidity and a nice mousse. Alc 12%

St Andrea, Áldás Superior, Egri Bikavér, Eger 2021
Bronze, 88 points | DWWA 2023
Spicy nose with aromas of red fruits. Medium tannins, well integrated and fruit driven, vivid finish. Alc 15%

Tokajicum Winery, Aszú, Tokaj 2018
Bronze, 87 points | DWWA 2023
Classic earthy nose of mushrooms and quince jam. Concentrated and pithy on the palate. Tasty. Alc 10%

Zelna, Olaszrizling, Balatonfüred-Csopak, Balaton 2021
Platinum, 97 points | DWWA 2022
The wine opens with a lovely honeyed citrus character that melts into notes of golden apples. The palate shows lovely freshness, with a flinty, smoky note sitting over the complex tropical fruits and lemon cordial. Shows amazing value. Alc 14%

Shop now

Use the code DECANTER5 at checkout to save 5% site-wide, while supplies last.
First 15 cases come with Decanter’s December issue which includes a dedicated Tokaj supplement. 

About Best of Hungary

Website: www.bestofhungary.co.uk
Promotion period: Now until stock lasts
Promotion details: 5% off DWWA mixed case and full range of Hungarian fine food delicacies sitewide on first orders. First 15 cases come with Decanter’s December issue.
Online promo code: DECANTER5

Follow Best of Hungary
Twitter @BestOfHungaryUK
Facebook @bestofhungaryuk
Instagram @bestofhungaryuk

The post Discover DWWA award-winning wines with Best of Hungary appeared first on Decanter.

For many wine lovers, Veneto is foremost, the home of classic appellations and storied regional brands, yet there are a multitude of surprises waiting to be discovered here. South of Lake Garda, is one of northern Italy’s most exciting and undiscovered wine DOCs: Custoza, an often overlooked appellation that produces some truly delectable white wines.

Undiscovered jewel

A mere 20 minutes from Custoza, you’ll find Verona, the city that is home to Shakepeare’s Romeo and Juliet, and in another direction, Lake Garda, Italy’s biggest lake. Yet, nestled amongst the hills in Verona’s southwestern corner is a quiet, fresh, vineyard-adorned haven, protected from those crowded tourist destinations. Time seems to stop in Custoza’s hills, which have seen centuries of oenological tradition, dating back to the Romans.

Custoza wines are earning international recognition and acclaim, thanks to the efforts of the region’s dedicated vine growers, and the focused communication strategies of the Consorzio Tutela Vino Custoza DOC. The region’s white wines stand out for their saline expressiveness, their unique blend of local varieties and their great food pairing potential, suited for both local and international cuisines.

Custoza itself proves a worthy destination, as visitors can escape the hustle and bustle, to this quiet pocket of Veneto, where the stresses of life fade away in this sleepy village and its scenic hills.

Secrets of excellence

Although white wine has been produced in the region for hundreds of years, the Custoza DOC was officially founded in 1971. The area under vine is compact, flanked by the Morainic hills that define the landscape between Verona and Lake Garda: a bucolic paradise of woodland, rolling hills, lakes and vineyards. Custoza’s vines thrive on the calcareous soils of the zone, interspersed with gravel/sand deposits and silt.

Here, exceptional terroir and cool evening temperatures converge, yielding aromatic whites with racy acidity and freshness. Overall, the region enjoys a continental climate, with relatively cold winters and warm summers, tempered by the proximity of Lake Garda and the undulating nature of the landscape. In a typical vintage, growers will encounter a benign pattern of consistent sunshine, supported by adequate – but not excessive – rainfall. This helps white varieties to achieve good levels of ripeness without sacrificing acidity: aficionados love Custoza wines for their vibrant citrus aromas and food-friendly salinity.

The art of blending

Custoza wine producers are masters of blending. Four native varieties must constitute 70% of any given blend: Bianca Fernanda (a local clone of Cortese), Garganega (an indigenous Veronese grape), Trebbianello (a local phenotype of Tocai Friulano) and Trebbiano, historically cultivated on the hills of the area.

A smattering of other white grapes – such as Riesling and Pinot Blanc – can also be found in these sloping vineyards and can be used to make up the remaining 30%. This considerable flexibility – and therefore diversity – is one of the reasons why critics find Custoza so alluring.

Custoza DOC’s winemakers and growers challenge themselves each vintage, to create distinctive and elegant wines, designed to enchant international palates. Renowned for their powerful aromas, good acidity and rich texture, Custoza wines typically offer flavours of stone fruit, apple, quince and almonds in their youth. Given time to develop, nutty and mineral notes come to the forefront, displaying the typical minerality of the region’s morainic soils.

Authentically Italian

Custoza’s fascinating collection of indigenous white grapes and superlative wines are reason enough to visit the area. But Custoza has more to offer than viticulture alone, not least beautiful scenery, fresh air on tap and delicious local cuisine. Expect breathtaking and unexpected views if you venture out for a walk, hire an e-bike or head out on horseback. After exploring Custoza’s green hills, you can return to the village’s rural idyll for a fresh glass of wine and a wholesome meal.

At the heart of Custoza’s appeal, however, is the rarity and intrigue of its oenological tradition: Garganega, Cortese, and Friulano are rarely found outside of Italy. And yet, grape varieties are seldom referenced on the appellation label. In Veneto, more complex traditions prevail and winegrowers stake their primary reputations on representing the terroir, rather than a particular grape variety. When you select a bottle of Custoza, you’re purchasing a unique and inimitable interpretation of a magic combination of soil, situation and climate. This corner of Italy is for those who seek to find something different, and with the current worldwide interest in indigenous grapes, Custoza’s moment has arrived.

Discover more about Custoza wines

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The post Custoza - the enchanting and emerging wine region between Verona and Lake Garda appeared first on Decanter.

If you know where to look there’s value to be found in every wine region, even the most famously expensive ones like Bordeaux and Burgundy. While it’s true that both these regions are better known for their premium offerings, you can still find value-for-money bottles and enjoy something truly special without breaking the bank.

Putting our money where pour mouth is we’ve pulled together a number of wines from across Bordeaux and Burgundy, all priced under £20 a bottle. There’s something for everyone here; red, white, rosé, sparkling and sweet, and as well as wines from basic appellations such as AOC Bourgogne there are a handful from better known areas including Chablis, Haut-Médoc and Sauternes.

Some of the best value wines from Bordeaux and Burgundy can be found via well known importers such as Corney & Barrow or The Wine Society, sold under their own labels. Supermarket own brand labels are also worth looking at, and there are a few of these in our selection too.

Best value Burgundy and Bordeaux, our top picks:

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The post Best value Burgundy and Bordeaux appeared first on Decanter.

There is a Port for all seasons if you know where to look. Often thought of as an after-dinner, fireside drink, Port can be enjoyed in multiple ways depending on the character of the wine.

There is a pyramid of different Port styles, from vibrant youthful ruby to venerable aged-tawny and vintage. Port is often thought of as a heavy winter drink, but aged tawnies, colheitas and mature vintage Ports can be supremely elegant and refined.

White Port and tonic (also known as Portonic) and tawnies (served slightly chilled) are just as well-suited for warm summer days as a ruby or a full-bodied LBV is for the winter months. Such wines have never been more in demand.

This style guide climbs the Port pyramid, surveying the latest trends. It will point you to the right Port for any occasion, winter or summer.

Decanter Premium is the perfect last-minute gift for wine lovers!

Ruby

Named after its youthful colour, a ruby Port will be a blend of wines from more than one year. It is aged in bulk for up to three years and bottled young to capture its strong, fiery personality.

Reserve

A blend of premium-quality wines often aged for slightly longer than a basic ruby before bottling: giving a rich, satisfying Port. A reserve tawny is a blended wine that has spent about seven years in wood. It can be excellent value compared to wines bottled with an indication of age.

Crusted

So-called because of the deposit (or ‘crust’) that the wine throws in bottle. Crusted Ports are a blend of wines from two or three harvests aged in large oak vats for two to four years (though surprisingly there is nothing in the regulations on this). Like a vintage Port, they are bottled without any fining or filtration. The only significant date on the label is the year of bottling. Most crusted Ports are ready to drink with five or six years of bottle age and will last for another decade. The British houses make a speciality of this style. Excellent value: crusted is poor man’s vintage Port!

White

Made from white grapes. Most are bottled young but some whites are capable of wood age. Those wines may now be bottled with the same age indications as tawny Ports or as a colheita (see below). White Port and tonic is a revitalsing summer drink, served with a twist of lemon and a sprig of mint. If you use an older wood-aged wine, your Portonic takes on the bitter-sweet character of a Negroni.

Pink

This style of Port was pioneered by Croft and has been adopted, not without controversy, by most shippers. It is made by cooling fermenting grape must, which has had minimal skin contact. Serve pink Port over ice or use as a mixer.

Cheese and Port matching guide

Port 2018: A buyer’s guide

Late Bottled Vintage (LBV)

Late Bottled Vintage means just what it says on the label: wwine from a single year that’s bottled between four and six years after the vintage. It’s produced in much larger volumes than either classic vintage or single-quinta vintage (see below). Two different styles of LBV Port have emerged.

The modern style of LBV was founded by Taylor’s in the mid-1960s and quickly became a commercial success. These wines are aged in large vats and are subject to fining and filtration prior to bottling. This prevents the formation of a crust or sediment in bottle, which removes the need to decant.

During the 1990s there was a counter-trend towards so-called ‘traditional’ or unfiltered LBV. These wines are aged in the same way but bottled without any filtration. Unfiltered wines are more structured and full-bodied than LBVs that have been filtered. They have the capacity to age for five to 10 years in bottle. They are bottled with a driven cork – as opposed to the stopper cork for LBVs that are bottled for immediate drinking.

An LBV may also be sold as ‘bottle matured’: aged in bottle for a minimum of three years before their release. Warre’s and Smith Woodhouse have made a specialty of this style. The wines share something of the depth and character and maturity of a true vintage Port at a fraction of the price.

Bottles at Graham’s Port Lodge in Vila Nova de Gaia, Portugal.

Vintage Port

Seen by many as the pinnacle of the Port pyramid. Many shippers have built (and occasionally destroyed) their international reputation on the back of vintage Port. The skill in making a great vintage Port comes from the strict selection of small lotes (parcels) of wine from the very finest locations made from grapes picked at optimum ripeness after an outstanding growing season. These grapes need to be very well worked during vinification, either foot-trodden in traditional stone lagares or increasingly subject to careful piston extraction or robotic treading. Graham’s 2000 was the first classic vintage Port to be partially made by robotic feet.

After the harvest these wines are monitored for a potential vintage. The decision to ‘declare’ a vintage is made independently by the shipper and it is not one that is taken lightly. There is no law about the regularity of Port vintages but there are usually three or four a decade. However, over the past decade there has been a string of fully or partially declared years including 2011, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018 and 2019.

Port vintage guide: 2000-2022

Port vintage guide: 1960-1999

Quantities are limited and a major shipper may declare anything from a few hundred cases to 15,000 cases depending on the year and circumstances. Sometimes the quantity declared is much less.

There is a recent trend towards declaring super-premium wines from a site-specific plot in a particular vineyard (often alongside a classic declaration). Quinta do Noval Nacional, from a tiny plot of ungrafted vines, is the historic prototype for this sub-category of wines. It now includes Taylor’s Quinta de Vargellas Vinha Velha, Graham’s Stone Terraces and Quinta de la Rosa’s Vale do Inferno. The total quantity declared of each wine is usually no more than 250 cases, and prices are commensurate. These are the ultimate collector’s wines!

Quinta do Noval

Before a Port can be bottled as a vintage it must be submitted to the IVDP (Instituto dos Vinhos do Douro e Porto) for approval. This can happen anytime between 1 January and 30 September in the second year after the harvest. Once the wine has been bottled it continues to evolve slowly over a period of at least 15 to 20 years or more, before it is considered ready to drink.

Rather like the seven ages of man, vintage Port enjoys a short, fragrant bloom of youth before it shuts down and goes through 10 to 20 years of surly adolescence. Then it slowly emerges as an adult gaining in gravitas until it reaches its peak, often between 20 and 40 years of age.

For the finest wines the peak becomes a long plateau and old age may not be reached for 80 years or more. Anyone born in one of the great post-war vintages of 1945, 1955, 1963, 1966 and 1970 has a wine to accompany them for life!

Since the early 2000s, a dramatic improvement in the quality of the fortifying spirit (which, it is easy to forget, makes up 20% of the wine) has altered the flavour profile of vintage Port. The spirit being used to fortify vintage and single-quinta vintage Port has a much more vinous character than in the past.

This means that it interferes much less with the fruit in a young wine than the coarse, rather oily spirit used previously. Certainly recent declared vintages such as 2007 and 2011 are notable for the purity and clear expression of fruit, even at this early stage. David Guimaraens, head winemaker for The Fladgate Partnership, maintains that the transition from youth to maturity will be much smoother in future, with less of that awkward adolescent stage. This should make vintage Port easier to broach at an earlier stage but the best wines should still age for a lifetime.

Vintage port 2000 and 2003: panel tasting results

Single-Quinta Vintage Port

With huge improvements in winemaking from the 1980s onwards, the production of a good vintage Port is much less of a hit-and-miss affair. Unless the year is a total washout (eg 1993 and 2002), wines of potential vintage quality can be made every year. Consequently wines from good years (in between declared vintages) are bottled by the major shippers as single-quinta vintage Port (SQVP). The same rules apply as to vintage Ports, the only difference being that the wines come from a single quinta or estate with the recommendation that they may be drunk earlier, after 10 rather than 20 years.

Without the collector’s cachet of a vintage Port, these wines are excellent value and by building up a vertical collection you can follow a specific Douro terroir. A handful of independent quintas are now producing their own SQVP nearly every year, along the lines of a Bordeaux château. Although this is a relatively new category, look out for properties that already have a good track record: Quinta do Vesúvio, Quinta de la Rosa, Quinta de Roriz, Quinta do Crasto, Quinta do Passadouro and Quinta do Vale Meão.

Touriga Nacional vines at Quinta de Roriz

Aged Tawny

Sharing the pinnacle with vintage Port, it has been said that whereas vintage is the ‘king’ of Ports, tawny is the ‘queen’. The ageing process is of vital importance. While a vintage Port will mature for a short time in large wooden vats and then in bottle; tawnies will age for much longer in small casks before bottling. These casks, known as lodge pipes, have 600- to 640-litre capacity.

The wines undergo a steady process of controlled oxidation and esterification as the colour fades from deep, opaque ruby to orange-amber-tawny. The tasting and blending of an aged tawny is a continual process. Wines set aside initially are often marked with the year of the harvest (‘colheita’). But as the shipper makes up new blends followed by blends of blends, the characteristics of individual wines gradually meld into the house style.

Tawnies may be bottled with an indication of age: 10, 20, 30, 40 or 50 years old. Even older wines may be designated ‘Very Very Old Tawny’. The age designations are obviously approximations and all wines have to be submitted for tasting by the IVDP for approval.

I adore the intricacy and delicacy of a well-aged tawny. A 20 Year Old is my preference, for its complexity offset by freshness. But there are some increasingly good 30, 40 and 50 year old wines as well, that don’t seem to have sacrificed their balance with age.

Port shippers often opt to drink a gently chilled tawny after lunch in the heat of the Douro. Think of aged tawny as a summer alternative to a fireside glass of vintage or LBV.

The Kopke cellars have large reserves of old Ports

Colheita

Meaning ‘harvest’ in Portuguese, colheita is a wine from a single year, aged in wood for a minimum of seven years before bottling. By this time the wine begins to take on the characteristics of a tawny. Most colheitas are aged for much longer and, with careful nurture, may be bottled after 50 or 100 years.

Two dates appear on the label: the year of harvest and the year of bottling. The latter is significant as the wine won’t generally improve in bottle – although after prolonged ageing in wood it won’t deteriorate quickly either.

Once the preserve of a select group of so called ‘Portuguese shippers’ (Barros, Burmester Cálem, Kopke, Krohn) colheitas have been taken up enthusiastically by the British shippers, sometimes bottled under the name ‘single harvest’. Serve colheitas cellar-cool, like a tawny.

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In a city driven by the cyclical whims of fashion, one constant remains: the Milanese enjoy their wine! With some of Italy’s best wine regions within an hour’s drive, there’s never a shortage of options.

One clear trend in Milan is the natural wine movement, which continues at a breathtaking pace. Use the guide below to seek out everything the city has to offer, from the latest natural wine bars to the Milan’s only rooftop ‘ethical hour’ restaurant, plus Michelin-star dining.

Best bars and restaurants in Milan for wine lovers

Horto

Horto’s beautiful rooftop terrace. Credit: Horto

Launched in September 2022 on the rooftop of The Medelan complex, Horto explores gastronomy through the concept of the ‘ethical hour’. Executive chef, Alberto Toè – under the direction of Norbert Niederkofler – sources ingredients from small farmers and dairies outside Milan, including Varzese beef for carpaccio, and a nearly forgotten raw-milk blue cheese called Strachítunt used as filling for plin dumplings.

While the wine list stretches beyond the one-hour limit imposed on food, every bottle reflects the restaurant’s ethos, with selections from small producers in the natural, organic and biodynamic realms.

Andrea Aprea

Andrea Aprea’s intimate dining space. Credit: Massi Ninni / Andrea Aprea

With multiple accolades, including two Michelin stars, Andrea Aprea lures wine-loving gastronomes to the top floor of the new art museum of the Luigi Rovati Foundation. The large, modern dining room anchored by a Murano chandelier seats only a handful of tables each night, creating the illusion of both space and intimacy.

Chef Aprea, easily spotted in the kitchen doorway, delivers a multi-course masterclass in texture, colour and flavour. The wine list reflects the artistic and intellectual ambition of the menu, boasting over 650 labels spanning blue-chips to rare or undiscovered treasures. The best option is to let the sommelier choose the pairings.

Cru wine bar

Cru Arc. Credit: Cru

Jacopo Ercolani, his brother and friends founded Cru in 2018. Ercolani developed an appreciation for minimal intervention wines after leaving the communications industry to work as a sommelier. Today, Cru boasts two locations, both casual, with a focus on wines by the glass and locally sourced cheese and charcuterie boards, including products from Le Marche, where Ercolani is from.

Cru Arc (near Arco della Pace) is a diminutive spot with only 10 interior seats but an outdoor dehors with 30-35 spots. Cru Island (Isola area) offers double the interior space plus terrace seating. Cru’s roster of producers spans 300 winemakers from Europe, with the glass pour changing daily. Don’t be shy about asking staff for help; they deftly match a guest’s taste preferences to the right bottle.

Enoteca/Naturale

Enoteca/Naturale operates as both a wine bar and restaurant, nestled within the pretty setting of Milan’s Parco delle Basiliche in the Ticinese area. While the rotation of 4,000 wine labels provides a point of distinction from its peers, the venue’s unique business model sets it apart: sharing space with Emergency, a humanitarian foundation providing care to people affected by conflict and poverty, Enoteca/Naturale opened in 2018 as an ‘SRL Benefit’ company.

Though for-profit, it promotes social integration and workforce diversity, notably by hiring immigrants. With an extensive selection of wines by the glass poured by an educated yet unpretentious staff, patronising Enoteca/Naturale provides a win-win model for guests and the community.

Vineria Eretica

Vineria Eretica has attracted natural wine drinkers to its intimate space close to Milano Centrale since 2019. Owner Giuseppe Bertini has curated an outstanding list of natural wines encompassing hard-to-find French labels and Italian and other European counterparts.

If Bertini is around, tap his deep knowledge of producers and styles while sampling small plates prepared with organic ingredients. Decorative touches, primarily vintage movie posters and memorabilia, reflect Bertini’s love of cinema.

Champagne Socialist

Founded in 2017 by the same proprietors as Forno Collettivo bakery, Champagne Socialist sits close to Corso Buenos Aires shopping street in Porta Venezia. Inside, however, the ambience is anything but haute fashion.

Peeling paint and exposed cement walls lined with wine bottles evoke an underground cellar. Organised by region, primarily Italian wines complement a selection of sandwiches and cheese and charcuterie boards. Monthly tastings led by featured producers allow guests to mingle with natural winemakers at the bar.

www.instagram.com/csocialist

Vinoir

Generally considered Milan’s first natural wine enoteca, Vinoir has persisted since 2012 as a favoured spot for those seeking small production and minimal intervention selections from Italy and beyond.

Located beyond the tourist fray, in the outskirts of the Navigli district, owner Gianluca Ladu and his wife Maddalena attract a dedicated crowd eager for conversation, education, producer tastings and affordable small plates like fresh handmade pasta. As a retail shop, guests who fall for a glass can purchase a bottle to take home.

Bicerin

Recline in vintage chairs while choosing from the 800-strong wine list at Bicerin. Credit: Bicerin

Dark paint, mirrored glass and vintage chairs in velvet and brocade evoke sipping inside a wine-obsessed antique dealer’s shop. Instead, Bicerin is the brainchild of three friends – Iris Romano, Lorenzo Viola and Alberto Gugliada – who designed the elegant setting to support their cache of 800 labels; many mature, rare and fine wines available to taste using the Coravin system.

Guests can relax in one of the lounge areas or book the ‘wine library’ for a personal tasting organised around lunch or dinner. The à la carte menu showcases seasonal, local produce and ingredients, from rabbit with potato gratin to gnocchi with artichokes and mortadella.

Rovello 18

This warm and welcoming trattoria opened in 2002 but remains an insider’s secret for its deep wine list, especially for grower Champagne. With over 800 bins, one can get lost in the selection process, though there’s a price point for everyone, whether a €30 Dolcetto d’Alba or an €850 magnum of aged Barolo.

The food is as much a draw as the wine list, with classic dishes like vitello tonnato, fassona steak tartare, and veal chop Milanese earning the family founders a Michelin guide nod.

Beefbar

Beefbar has a glamorous 1950s feel. Credit: Marion Butet Studio / Beefbar

Style-conscious wine drinkers started flocking to Beefbar after it opened in March 2023. Located near Portrait Milano, a former seminary restored into the city’s poshest hotel, Beefbar taps retro and contemporary interior design trends. Think 1950s Italian glamour replete with arches, curved lines and velvet banquettes.

Though it offers a break from the formality of traditional meat palaces, notably with comfort dishes and global flavours such as Kobe beef carbonara and lemon and yuzu osso bucco risotto, the wine list serves the red wine-and-ribeye crowd. Well known labels from Piedmont and Tuscany steal the show, with a supporting cast from the rest of Italy and France.

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Social media posts and some French media reports suggested hip-hop star and producer Jay-Z enjoyed a trip to Bordeaux wine country earlier this month, even if the precise itinerary of the tour remained open to speculation.

The trip coincided with Jay-Z’s 54th birthday on 4 December, and was also held to celebrate the 50th birthday of Jay Brown –  co-founder of Roc Nation with Jay-Z in 2008, and the label’s current vice chairman.

Although details of the trip remained somewhat mysterious, it’s believed Brown temporarily ‘privatised’ exclusive spa hotel Les Sources de Caudalie for guests.

Beyoncé, married to Jay-Z since 2008, and Rihanna were among the other high-profile guests visiting the region, according to Le Figaro newspaper, citing Instagram posts by celebrity news agency Backgrid. 

One photo posted to Instagram by @KodakLens appeared to show Jay-Z with a glass of red wine at famous Pomerol estate Petrus, along with the message ‘Brooklyn to Bordeaux’. The account is run by senior Roc Nation executive Lenny Santiago.

Jay-Z visits Bordeaux wine country…Photo published on Instagram by @kodaklens.

There were also unconfirmed reports of a visit to Châteaux d’Yquem, with media outlet France 3  citing Instagram updates from Santiago. One photo appeared to show bottles of Yquem 1969 and 1973, the birth years of Brown and Carter, noted Le Figaro.

Other social media footage purportedly from the trip showed several guests in-front of large-format bottles of Petrus.

Château d’Yquem, owned by LVMH, said it had no information about the journey of Jay-Z and friends in Bordeaux.

Alice Tourbier, owner of Les Sources de Caudalie, said that she couldn’t comment on reports about the venue’s latest high-profile guests. 

Les Sources de Caudalie, which lies within the grounds of Château Smith Haut Lafitte, is one of the most luxurious hotels in the greater Bordeaux area – it recently welcomed King Charles III and Queen Camilla during their state visit to France. 

Local newspaper Sud-Ouest also speculated last week about the arrival of a rarely spotted luxury train, the Venice Simplon Orient Express (VSOE), at Bordeaux’s St-Jean station in the same period.

It is operated by the Belmond group, which is part of LVMH’s portfolio, but it wasn’t clear who would be getting onboard. 

Jay-Z is no stranger to the wine world, and in 2021 LVMH acquired 50% of the star’s Armand de Brignac Champagne, also known as ‘Ace of Spades’.

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AOP Chablis 2022

Top-scoring AOP Chablis 2022

The below wines all scored 92 points or above. 

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Entrepreneurial acumen and passion seldom go hand in hand; one attribute tends to take over, ultimately leading a company’s strategy and ethos. The wine sector, however, is an exception. Key stakeholders in wine businesses often create commercial success because of a fundamental love of their country’s land, history and culture working in tandem with a savvy understanding of how to deliver quality and value.

J. García-Carrión is a perfect example of this synergy. It has played a key role in Spain’s ubiquitous presence on wine shelves and lists around the world. With an innovative take on tradition and a profound knowledge of the country’s potential as a leading wine-producer, J. García-Carrión has built some of Spain’s most recognisable brands, while also crafting award-winning limited editions.

130 years as pioneers

J. García-Carrión’s roots go back to 1890, when the company’s founder built a new winery in Jumilla. With extensive experience as a wine trader in Murcia, Cartagena, Lorca and Almería, García-Carrión took this timely and strategic step just as exports to France – where phylloxera had caused a dramatic shortage of wines – were peaking.

This opportune timing allowed J. García-Carrión to consolidate and scale production, paving the way for commercial success and laying the groundwork for future generations to flourish and expand. D. José García- Carrión – the founder’s great grandson – began a revolution both for the direction of the company and Spanish wine when he joined the business in 1968, aged 19.

Rafaela (Fala) Corujo, Vice president, José García-Carrión, President of García-Carrión, and Luciano García-Carrión, Vice President of García-Carrión

A new era begins

José García-Carrión, alongside his wife Fala Corujo took a novel approach, focused on marketing and brand development, that saw the creation of the iconic Don Simón wine in 1980. The brand eventually expanded to cover a broad range of products, including juices, soups and the ubiquitous Don Simón Sangria.

In 1997, José García-Carrión’s son, Luciano García-Carrión, took over the commercial and marketing departments, building on the company’s phenomenal success by expanding international distribution into more than 150 countries. Launching wines from different regions and DOS under a single umbrella brand allied the company to maintain a strong presence in established markets like Europe and the US, whilst also flourishing in emerging regions like Asia and West Africa. Pata Negra’s acclaim in Mexico and the growing popularity of flagship wines in South America stand as the shining examples of the strategy’s success.

From crafting accessible, high- quality wines for a broad international audience to curating flagship wines sourced from selected old vineyards, the company has demonstrated an unwavering commitment to showcasing the distinct terroirs, grape varieties and appellations of Spain. This success cements J. García Carrión’s position as a versatile industry player able to meet the needs of varied international consumer tastes, and also underscores its innovative prowess in navigating the evolving landscape of the global wine market.

International success

The company’s efforts have been consistently recognised by international wine critics and journalists – not least at Decanter’s own World Wine Awards (DWWA). Bodega La Ermita Cepas Viejas Monastrell DO Jumilla 2019 was awarded a Gold Medal by Decanter judges this year. First released 40 years ago, the wine was crafted with care and precision, receiving a 96-point nod from the DWWA judges. They praised the ‘rich, savoury plum, cherry, earthy and liquorice’ notes and were seduced by the ‘big and bold’ limited edition, which hails from ungrafted old Monastrell vines – describing it as ‘an engaging wine with lots going on’.

The Jumilla’s Rioja counterpart – Bodega La Ermita DOCa Rioja 2019 – also stood out, scooping a Silver Medal with 94 points. Produced with fruit from a high-altitude south-facing plot of Tempranillo at the foot of the Sierra Cantabria (one of the highest elevation sites in the DOCa Rioja), the judges loved the ‘restrained vanilla, cedar, red plum nose’. A dash of Graciano certainly contributed to the wine’s overall balance and well-integrated tannins.

Excellence at all levels

2023 has been extraordinary for the wines of J. García-Carrión, which were recognised at all levels across multiple competitions – earning over 800 medals so far – demonstrating the company’s expertise and commitment to delivering quality and character at all price points. Mayor de Castilla Roble DO Ribera del Duero 2022, Pata Negra Roble DO Ribera del Duero 2022, Jaume Serra Brut Nature DO Cava and Mayoral Reservado DO Jumilla all received Silver Medals with a score of 90 points at the DWWA.

An emphasis on sustainability

J. García-Carrión’s sustainable viticultural practices, environmental awareness and consumer-centric approach fortify its firm business ethics. The company addresses climate challenges by employing a 360° sustainability strategy, and leveraging technology and innovation to reduce and neutralise its carbon footprint. It seamlessly blends tradition with innovation, making sustainability integral to its story of success.

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It started with a small handful of friends, who set out to rediscover the art of skin-contact white wine in the heart of Friuli. But the popularity of these characterful wines has seen this grow to a real movement, comprising dozens of strong-minded producers.

Thanks to pioneers such as Joško Gravner and the late Stanko Radikon, there is now a core of educated winemakers spread all around Italy, each making macerated whites with a distinct history and regional typicity.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for Magnani’s six Friuli skin-contact wines to try

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Blazing a trail up South Africa’s west coast, viticulturist Jaco Engelbrecht is on his way to Skerpioen, the sprawling old bush-vine vineyard rooted on white sand-limestone soils that produces the namesake Chenin Blanc-Palomino blend made by Eben Sadie for his Sadie Family Wines label. And right next to Skerpioen, in this arid coastal desert, Engelbrecht says he’s recently planted five rows of bush-vine Cinsault for Sadie.

Scroll down for tasting notes and scores of 30 South Africa Cinsault wines to try

South Africa Cinsault: 30 to try

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As a companion selection to our 34 wines under £20, the Decanter team has selected 16 standout bottles certain to impress, and all available in the UK priced from £20-£50.

Festive treats: December 2023

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