The star of the show was a bottle of LeNell’s Red Hook Rye 23 Year Old Barrel #1, which sold for $56,250 (£44,814).

That smashed the estimate of $20,000 to $30,000 at Sotheby’s ‘Festive Spirits and American Classics’ auction in the Big Apple.

LeNell Camacho Santa Ana owned a specialist spirits store in the Red Hook area of Brooklyn back in the 2000s.

She regularly embarked upon buying trips to Kentucky, and one of her excursions saw her land four barrels of rye that had been distilled at Bernheim Distillery in Louisville in the early 1980s.

It was used to create LeNell’s Red Hook Rye, which has emerged as one of the most distinctive and sought-after rye bottlings of all time. The 23 Year Old Barrel #1 was signed by Camacho Santa Ana.

Zev Glesta, spirits specialist at Sotheby’s, said it had secured some of the ‘rarest whiskeys that only surface once in a blue moon’ for the auction.

A bottle of Rathskeller Rye 136 Proof 1983 shattered its target of $18,000 to $24,000 by fetching $37,500 (£29,876).

The 24-year-old rye was commissioned by the Seelbach, Louisville’s grandest hotel, in 2007 to commemorate the building’s rich history.

Another highlight was a bottle of D.H. Cromwell 15 Year Old, which sold for $30,000 (£23,900) – $10,000 higher than the upper estimate.

It is one of just 72 bottles of this whiskey, which was produced by Julian ‘Pappy’ Van Winkle III at his Old Commonwealth Distillery.

The whiskey pays tribute to a Milwaukee bar owner called Helen Cromell, who often added a ‘w’ to her name to make it easier to remember.

She became a close friend of Pappy Van Winkle, so this bottling was created in 2000 to honour her memory.

Cromell was nicknamed Dirty Helen for her ‘spicy vocabulary’, and the label bears the letters VGS, short for ‘very good s***’.

Meanwhile, a bottle of Old Rip Van Winkle 25 Year Old 1989 sold for $37,500 (£29,876), which was $7,500 above the upper estimate.

It is the oldest Van Winkle whiskey ever released, nicknamed the ‘Pappy of Pappys’. It is known as the best, rarest and most coveted bottle the Julian Van Winkle III ever produced.

It was released in a run of just 710 bottles back in 2014, and it features some of the last Stitzel-Weller bourbon made at that distillery before it shut down.

A bottle of Van Winkle Special Reserve 19 Year Old Corti Brothers sold for $22,500 (£17,925), while another sold for $20,000 (£15,934).

The Corti brothers ran a gourmet grocery store in Sacramento in the 1980s, which became one of the earliest buyers of Pappy Van Winkle whiskeys.

Owner Darrell Corti is credited with convincing Van Winkle to use a cognac-style bottle, which is now one of the distillery’s hallmarks.

Twelve bottles of A.H. Hirsch sold for a total of $88,750 (£70,725). The highlight was an A.H. Hirsch 19 Year Old bottle from 1974, which fetched $11,875 (£9,462).

A bottle of Michter’s Single Barrel Rye 25 Year Old also beat its upper estimate by selling for $23,750 (£18,923).

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Social media posts and some French media reports suggested hip-hop star and producer Jay-Z enjoyed a trip to Bordeaux wine country earlier this month, even if the precise itinerary of the tour remained open to speculation.

The trip coincided with Jay-Z’s 54th birthday on 4 December, and was also held to celebrate the 50th birthday of Jay Brown –  co-founder of Roc Nation with Jay-Z in 2008, and the label’s current vice chairman.

Although details of the trip remained somewhat mysterious, it’s believed Brown temporarily ‘privatised’ exclusive spa hotel Les Sources de Caudalie for guests.

Beyoncé, married to Jay-Z since 2008, and Rihanna were among the other high-profile guests visiting the region, according to Le Figaro newspaper, citing Instagram posts by celebrity news agency Backgrid. 

One photo posted to Instagram by @KodakLens appeared to show Jay-Z with a glass of red wine at famous Pomerol estate Petrus, along with the message ‘Brooklyn to Bordeaux’. The account is run by senior Roc Nation executive Lenny Santiago.

Jay-Z visits Bordeaux wine country…Photo published on Instagram by @kodaklens.

There were also unconfirmed reports of a visit to Châteaux d’Yquem, with media outlet France 3  citing Instagram updates from Santiago. One photo appeared to show bottles of Yquem 1969 and 1973, the birth years of Brown and Carter, noted Le Figaro.

Other social media footage purportedly from the trip showed several guests in-front of large-format bottles of Petrus.

Château d’Yquem, owned by LVMH, said it had no information about the journey of Jay-Z and friends in Bordeaux.

Alice Tourbier, owner of Les Sources de Caudalie, said that she couldn’t comment on reports about the venue’s latest high-profile guests. 

Les Sources de Caudalie, which lies within the grounds of Château Smith Haut Lafitte, is one of the most luxurious hotels in the greater Bordeaux area – it recently welcomed King Charles III and Queen Camilla during their state visit to France. 

Local newspaper Sud-Ouest also speculated last week about the arrival of a rarely spotted luxury train, the Venice Simplon Orient Express (VSOE), at Bordeaux’s St-Jean station in the same period.

It is operated by the Belmond group, which is part of LVMH’s portfolio, but it wasn’t clear who would be getting onboard. 

Jay-Z is no stranger to the wine world, and in 2021 LVMH acquired 50% of the star’s Armand de Brignac Champagne, also known as ‘Ace of Spades’.

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On Saturday 24 February 2024, we invite all wine enthusiasts to join us at the luxurious setting of The Landmark London Hotel for the return of the Decanter Italy Experience, an extraordinary one-day event bringing together exceptional wines from all over Italy.

Sip on incredible vintages, connect with the remarkable talents behind the labels, sample Italian delicacies, and take the opportunity to participate in expert-led masterclasses held throughout the day.

The Grand Tasting: a tour of Italy’s best

This unparalleled wine tasting experience gives you the chance to explore Italy’s diverse regions during an atmospheric Grand Tasting, where guests can taste some of Italy’s finest wines, including awarded Italian wines from the 2023 Decanter World Wine Awards at the DWWA Winners Table.

Credit: Ellen Richardson

Unmissable masterclasses

This years’ masterclasses are an especially impressive trio: Italian wine lovers will have the chance to indulge in a thrilling 75-minute voyage of discovery of Alto Adige’s diversity and explore Bertani’s elegant, terroir-driven Valpolicella and Amarone wines. Additionally, sample vintages of the rare and collectible Ipsus from Tuscany.

These classes are a must-attend for true aficionados of Italy’s finest wines.

An unforgettable journey into Italian viticulture

More than just a wine tasting event, the Decanter Italy Experience offers a journey into the heart of Italian viticulture and beyond.

Discover the stories behind the wines, engage with winemakers, and broaden your understanding of Italy’s rich winemaking heritage — all within the elegant surroundings of The Landmark London Hotel.

Credit: Ellen Richardson

Prepare for an unforgettable journey of discovery!

Tickets on sale now

Decanter Premium subscribers can enjoy exclusive priority access to Decanter Italy Experience tickets, before they go on general sale on Tuesday 12 December.

Tickets are in high demand and are limited, so make sure you book today to avoid disappointment.

The festive season is here, and tickets to the Decanter Italy Experience will make the perfect gift for wine lovers you want to treat.

The Decanter Italy Experience is kindly sponsored by Riedel.

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Wine drinkers are increasingly turning to whites and rosés, which together now account for more than half of consumption, according to the International Organisation of Vine and Wine (OIV).

White wine consumption has been growing ‘at a relatively fast pace’ since 2010, driven by demand for sparkling wine, the OIV said in a report on colour trends since the start of the century. The rosé market resumed growing at a slower pace after taking a hit from the 2008 global financial crisis. Red wine consumption didn’t show a similar recovery, falling from a peak in 2007, according to the intergovernmental organisation.

Rising popularity of white wine in the past 20 years is mostly driven by the sparkling wine markets of the US, Germany and the UK, making up for traditional consumers such as France and Spain, where overall wine drinking has declined. The situation is different for reds, where no country was able to compensate for the falling consumption in the major European wine countries.

‘Over the past decades, the world wine sector has seen an overall positive trend of production and consumption of white and rosé wines, while red wines have decreased,’ the OIV said. ‘This structural shift can be mainly attributed to overall changes in consumer preferences.’

White wine accounted for 43% of global wine consumption in 2021, up 3 percentage points from the start of the century, the OIV data shows. The share of reds stands at 47%, from just over half two decades earlier.

Global consumption of white wine and rosé has risen by 10% and 17% since 2000, respectively, according to the OIV. Red wine has declined 15% from a peak in 2007.

‘The boom of rosé and then of sparkling wines, together with a crisis of red wines, are mainly caused by a change in the composition of consumers,’ said Giorgio Delgrosso, head of statistics at the OIV, by email. ‘Also, the evolution of consumption habits has certainly played in favour of lighter and fresher beverages.’

The US is the biggest consumer of white wine, with consumption rising 65% in the 2000-2021 period. Russia, Australia and the UK were other countries where white wine did well, while consumption was stable in Italy, the second-biggest market for the colour.

France is the biggest destination for rosé wine, accounting for more than a third of the market. However, the UK was where consumption rose fastest in the past two decades.

The US, China and Germany are the biggest red-wine drinkers, followed by France and Italy. Both China and the US recorded rising consumption in the past two decades, though the OIV data show Chinese wine drinking has slumped from a peak in 2017. Consumption in France, once the world’s biggest red-wine consumer, has fallen by almost half since the start of the century.

The mix of production by colour has followed the consumption patterns in the past 20 years, with a ‘remarkable’ decrease in global red wine supply, according to the OIV.

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For the third consecutive year, we are heading back to the Rhône Valley for an unforgettable tour of this iconic wine region with our regional expert, Matt Walls.

You can expect some exciting new wineries on the itinerary and impeccable vintages on the wine lists. There’s no denying, these trips just keep getting better.

‘For this trip I’ve put together a mix of legendary estates that are standard bearers for their appellations alongside under-the-radar producers who I’m sure will be the stars of tomorrow,’ says Walls.

Feedback for the last two trips Walls has hosted has been phenomenal, with guests reveling in his expertise and enjoying the taste of some incredible wines, all hand selected for their provenance and enjoyability. 

‘The selection of estates that Walls chose to visit was great. An excellent mix of well-known names with new discoveries,’ says recent wine tour guest Amber LeBeau.

If you are looking to book a special wine experience in 2024, take a look at our trip brochure to get a feel for what’s in store. A private boat tour down the Rhône river, complete with an exciting wine flight of special vintages, is just one of the highlights we have in store. 

Here’s everything you need to know: 

Dates: 2nd – 9th of June 2024

Estates: Five new wineries added 

Price: $8,900 (single supplement $1,285).

Deposit: $750

Take a look at the tour brochure here.

BOOK NOW 

The post Rhône Valley wine tour 2024: Book now appeared first on Decanter.

The firm has embarked upon an ambitious expansion drive this year, having also snapped up fellow e-commerce player Barcart in June.

Flaviar said that the acquisition of Wine-Searcher ‘cements its dominant position as the global leader in beverage alcohol’.

Wine-Searcher is a leading database for wine enthusiasts, which provides information about thousands of wines, including price and availability.

‘This is a classic case where the sum is greater than the parts,’ said Flaviar CEO Jugoslav Petkovic, a Slovenian entrepreneur who co-founded the company in 2012.

‘We at Flaviar are experts in spirits and e-commerce in the US and Europe, while Wine-Searcher brings unparalleled global reach, depth of wine expertise and a wealth of historic pricing and availability data.

‘At the same time our two companies share a lot of our values, especially around independence, focus on benefits to the consumer and acting as an enabler for the industry participants to operate and improve their business.’

Wine-Searcher was established in 1999. It has featured around 18 million listings from more than 33,000 vendors, spread across 126 countries.

The database is searched nearly 300 million times per year, according to the company, and it has more than five million monthly active users.

‘After nearly 25 years of building Wine-Searcher’s database, relationships and reputation I’m leaving the company in the capable hands of a wonderful team and with full confidence that with the seasoned management team and new ownership the best days are still ahead,’ said Wine-Searcher founder Martin Brown.

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Researchers described the algorithm as a ‘100% reliable model’ that could be used to combat counterfeiting within the fine wine trade.

A team from the University of Geneva in Switzerland used artificial intelligence to assess the chemical composition of 80 red wines from seven different châteaux.

They used wines from 12 different vintages between 1990 and 2007, all from renowned estates in Bordeaux.

The researchers vaporised the wines and broke them down to chemical components, resulting in a readout for each wine. The readout is known as a chromatogram, and it has around 30,000 points representing separate chemical compounds.

The team then used 73 chromatograms to train the AI, along with data on the vintage and the estate that produced the wines.

Researchers then tested the algorithm on seven chromatograms that were held back to see if it could guess which estate had produced the wines.

It managed to do so with 100% accuracy. The researchers repeated the process 50 times, changing the wines used each time, and the algorithm consistently earned full marks.

‘Our results show that it is possible to identify the geographical origin of a wine with 100% accuracy, by applying dimensionality reduction techniques to gas chromatograms,’ said lead researcher Alexandre Pouget, a neuroscience professor at the University of Geneva.

His goal was to identify a specific, invariable chemical signature for each estate. ‘The wine sector has made numerous attempts to answer this question, with questionable or sometimes correct results, but involving heavy techniques.’

Co-author Stéphanie Marchand, a professor at the Institute of Vine and Wine Science at the University of Bordeaux, added: ‘This [study] allowed us to show that each estate does have its own chemical signature. We also observed that three wines were grouped together on the right and four on the left, which corresponds to the two banks of the Garonne on which these estates are located.’

The algorithm could now be used to nail down each estate’s terroir in a more scientific manner than was previously possible.

Pouget believes that it could also be used to fight back against fraud. ‘There’s a lot of wine fraud around, with people making up some crap in their garage, printing off labels, and selling it for thousands of dollars,’ he said. ‘We show for the first time that we have enough sensitivity with our chemical techniques to tell the difference.’

It is the latest in a long line of remarkable developments in the rapidly advancing world of artificial intelligence. Machine learning tools can now beat the world’s best chess players, pass the bar and diagnose diseases.

AI has also been deployed at wineries, which use algorithms to monitor harvests, predict yields, sort grapes, manage inventory and prevent spoilage.

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‘It was a very good vintage with extremely healthy grapes’ – Vincent Dauvissat

After a week spent in Chablis tasting 375 wines, it is clear that 2022 is a very good year – and potentially an excellent one. Although a warm and very dry vintage, yields were not excessive and, crucially, acidity is high. The resulting wines are very well balanced with a lovely combination of the freshness and minerality which typifies Chablis, combined with fleshy, ripe, stone- and tree-fruit flavours.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for a selection of top-scoring and top-value Chablis 2022 wines

Coming after the very challenging growing season in 2021 (severe frosts, cold weather and rainfall leading to disease pressure), Chablis 2022 has a different style and one which will appeal both to ‘classic’ Chablis lovers as well as those looking for more generous fruit character.

Top producer Vincent Dauvissat commented that in 2022 ‘the vines were recovering from 2021, and were compensating with lots of vegetative growth’. Dauvissat notes: ‘It was a very good vintage with extremely healthy grapes.’

See the Chablis 2022 top wines score table for all wines scoring 93 points or above

Howard’s pick: 30 great buys

The following wines are Andy Howard MW’s pick of the top-scoring and best-value Chablis 2022 wines, according to his own extensive tastings, as well as including wines from ‘producers to look out for’.

NB: many retailers’ allocations for these wines are as yet unconfirmed – prices and stockists are given where available, and alcohol levels are shown where known at the time of writing. If we have awarded ‘Top value’ to an as-yet unpriced wine, it is based on our predicted pricing.

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Once the most famed and coveted wine style in the world, sweet wines have the ability to inspire otherworldly experiences.

Outstanding examples divulge layers of complexity wrapped up in luscious texture yet are never cloying, with aromas and flavours that continue to develop gracefully with age.

Lying behind the term ‘sweet wine’ are centuries of history, tradition and varying production techniques, from grapes affected by noble rot or dried in the sun, to those left on the vine until frozen. Whatever the process, it’s often a labour of love that gives small quantities in return.

The quality and absolute joy of sweet wines is recognised annually during Decanter World Wine Awards, whereby hundreds of sweet wines from regions all around the world are rated by leading experts, invariably with brilliant results.

Scroll down to see 15 top-scoring sweet wines from DWWA 2023

The 2023 competition saw two of the Top 50 Best in Show medals awarded to sweet wines from Austria and Greece, with eight more awarded 97 points in the Platinum category.

From notable classics to new discoveries, a total of 41 sweet wines from 12 countries were awarded 95 points (Gold) or more, with wines from the Czech Republic, Portugal and China on quality par with the great sweets of France, Germany and Hungary.

‘The Decanter World Wine Awards has become a kind of international benchmark for the wine world,’ explains Co-Chair Andrew Jefford – and a look at results within a specific region, grape variety, colour or style category, as here, reflects this.

As an aperitif, a sweet treat to complete a meal, or savoured on its own, below discover the liquid Gold of the DWWA competition – this year’s global sweet wine benchmarks – with more to search and find at awards.decanter.com

Liquid Gold: Top-awarded sweet wines to try

Austria

Tschida Angerhof, Schilfwein Muskat Ottonel, Neusiedlersee 2021

Best in Show, 97 points 
£73.25/37.5cl Astrum Wine Cellars, Sociovino
Aromas of honeyed, musky enchantment: seduction exemplified. Palate-teasingly rich (308g/L sugars) yet never cloying, thanks principally to those head-turning perfumes and to a lesser extent to its subdued orange-decked acidity. Creamy and rich, and it leaves the mouth with a jasmine freshness. Resist it if you can. Alcohol 8%

Greece

Estate Argyros, First Release Vinsanto, Santorini 2015

Best in Show, 97 points
£45.55-£60/50cl Clark Foyster, Epinoia, Tanners, Wine & Greene
Waxy, incense-like aromas almost seem to evoke the interior of Orthodox churches. The flavours are deep, dense and close-knit, the balance riveting – extravagant sugars (250g/L) are offset by the distinctive acid cut of Assyrtiko and a ‘rancio’ oxidative tang and tannic grip, the legacy of long wood-ageing. Classic Santorini salinity adds a further layer to a unique wine experience. Alc 13%

Australia

De Bortoli, Noble One Botrytis Semillon, New South Wales 2019

Platinum, 97 points 
£21.95/37.5cl (2020) Eynsham Cellars, Gwin Dylanwad, WoodWinters
Big, unctuous and brimming with masses of honey, crystalline sugar, lemon rind and burnt orange. Lusciously sweet crème caramel texture, all held together by a succulent, cleansing acidity. Long, intense and mouthfilling. Divine. Alc 10%

China

Yajianggu Winery, Vidal Icewine, Tonghua, Jilin 2017

Gold, 95 points 
The nose displays lovely scents of flowers with notes of tropical mango and pineapple, caramel and fresh honey. Crisp and lemony on the palate. Alc 10.6%

Croatia

Benvenuti, San Salvatore Muškat, Istria 2018

Gold, 95 points
benvenutivina.com
A rich and intricate flavour profile features notes of raisin, caramel and dried apricot. Its texture is velvety smooth, with hints of peach and beeswax, the finish sweet and long-lasting. Truly impressive. Alc 11%

Czech Republic

Portz Insel, Cibulka Ryzlink Vlašský, Mikulovská, Moravia 2018

Gold, 95 points
vinocibulka.cz
Truly fabulous, showing elegant aromas of honeyed peaches, apple pie, orange peel and fresh citrus fruits. Sweet and unctuous, with harmonious and lively acidity. Alc 12%

France

Domaine des Petits Quarts, Clos des Melleresses, Bonnezeaux, Loire 2021

Platinum, 97 points
domainedespetitsquarts.fr
Has layers of sumptuous candied orange peel and rich honeyed citrus fruit. Caressingly rich and lavish with a hugely concentrated, mouthwatering texture and a seamlessly fresh, contrasting line of acidity. Delectable, delicious and endless. Alc 11.5%

Germany

Dr Loosen, Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling TBA, Mosel 2013

Platinum, 97 points 
POA ABS Wine Agencies
Waves of sublime honeyed apricot, dried pineapple, mango and marmalade with a luscious backbone of exotic saffron and rosehip bathed in vibrant acidity which cleanses the sweetness. Delightfully poised and pristine, incredible length. Alc 7.5%

Hans Wirsching, Iphöfer Julius-Echter -Berg Rieslaner TBA, Franken 2021

Platinum, 97 points
POA The WineBarn
Enticing, intense aromas of dried apricot, candied orange peel, marmalade, peach jam and pineapple dive into a sweet-sour tightrope of tension and delectable oily viscosity, with distinctive acidity and lifted, Angelica root-infused finish. Alc 7%

Korrell, Kreuznacher Paradies Riesling Eiswein, Nahe 2021

Platinum, 97 points
korrell.com
Emblazoned with mouthwatering honeyed peach and apricot fruit, lemon curd and dried blossom with a tingling knife-edge acidity and seamless minerality piercing through the staggeringly intense sweetness. An utterly mindblowing experience. Alc 6%

Hungary

Gizella, Szamorodni, Tokaj 2019

Platinum, 97 points
£33.99/50cl Novel Wines
Smoulderingly rich with swathes of succulent apricot, honeyed white peach, dried mango and passion fruit encased in a penetrating lime and grapefruit freshness. Decadent, full and rapturously luscious with a wonderfully long and youthful finish. Alc 11%

Italy

La Colombaia Ville di Bagnolo, Torri della Colombaia, Vin Santo del Chianti, Tuscany 2009

Platinum, 97 points
villadibagnolo.it
Mesmerising shades of crushed walnuts, dried mango, peach and ginger spice are engulfed in a luscious caramel intensity. Deeply rich and sublimely sweet, a suggestion of toasty vanilla and a lipsmacking tang of refreshing acidity. Very long. Alc 15%

Portugal

Companhia das Lezírias, Séries Singulares Colheita Tardia, Tejo 2021

Gold, 96 points
vinhoazeite.cl.pt
Absolutely impeccable. Heady and unctuous cut lime, pear, lychee, Turkish delight and butterscotch with a harmony of grapefruit acidity and a long, super- spicy finish. Alc 13%

South Africa

Paul Cluver, Noble Late Harvest Riesling, Elgin 2021

Gold, 95 points 
£22-£27.50/37.5cl Christopher Piper, Dunell’s, Frontier Fine Wines, The Oxford Wine Co, Vinvm
Thrilling layers of sundried mango, pineapple, honey and marmalade with a surge of crisp lime acid precision. Hugely generous and enticing with a very long finish. Alc 10%

Search all DWWA 2023 results

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The post Liquid Gold: Outstanding sweet wines of the world appeared first on Decanter.

Franciacorta, a small DOCG wine region in Lombardy, 70km east of Milan, is uniquely positioned at the foothills of the Italian Alps. Its vineyards benefit from a warm continental climate, moderated by nearby lake Iseo and sheltered by the mountains. The gentle, southwest-facing slopes of Monte Orfano further provide an ideal environment for grapes to ripen while maintaining acidity, contributing to the distinctive and complex character of Franciacorta’s wines.

Scroll down for Federico Moccia’s pick of 18 Franciacorta wines to try

Federico Moccia’s pick of the best 18 Franciacorta wines

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Japanese artist Chiharu Shiota has created a work named ‘Universe of Mouton’ to illustrate the Château Mouton Rothschild 2021 label, the Bordeaux first growth estate said today (1 December).

Mouton Rothschild 2021 is the latest vintage of the estate’s grand vin to be bottled, around 18 months on from an initial release during the Bordeaux en primeur campaign.

Pauillac-based Mouton has commissioned artwork for every vintage label since 1945.

Alongside the Mouton Rothschild 2021 label release, the estate has partnered with Christie’s to offer a one-off lot of the wine in various bottle formats, including a 15-litre ‘nebuchadnezzar’ bottle.

The online auction runs until 8 December and proceeds from the sale will benefit the Association Antoine Alléno, a charity that supports grieving families. 

Concept of the Mouton Rothschild 2021 label

Chiharu Shiota. Photo credit: Sunhi Mang / courtesy of Château Mouton Rothschild.

Mouton described how the label design depicts a ‘fragile silhouette of a human figure [facing] gorgeous, generous nature’, at the same time as reflecting a delicate interconnectedness between the two. 

Berlin-based Chiharu Shiota said, ‘When I visited Château Mouton Rothschild, I was very inspired by their relationship with nature. They depend on the weather and do not interfere with mother nature. They accept the conditions in which the grapes grow. I think Mouton is holding on to the balance of human and nature.’ 

The award-winning artist added, ‘The four lines connecting the human to the environment represent the four seasons (winter, spring, summer, autumn) and all the emotions linked to them (solitude, hope, achievement).

‘It is like preserving the memory of the year in the wine. I find this very fascinating because I also believe that the objects that surround us accumulate our memories and existence.’

Mouton Rothschild co-owner Julien de Beaumarchais with Chiharu Shiota. Photo credit: Atelier Chiharu Shiota.

Julien de Beaumarchais de Rothschild, co-owner of Château Mouton Rothschild and responsible for artistic and cultural matters at the estate – including relations with the chosen label artist – said, ‘I was fascinated by Chiharu Shiota’s vision, so close to the world of wine, especially in the relationship between humankind and nature, fragile and fertile, generous but unpredictable. 

‘And then there is that bright red colour, one of her trademarks, so reminiscent of new wine running out of the vats. For me the label embodies what I would call metaphorical realism: I see in it a vinegrower firmly grasping a fabulous cluster of grapes.’

Chiharu Shiota was born in Osaka in 1972 and has seen her work displayed at art institutions and galleries worldwide. In 2008 in Japan, she was awarded the Minister of Education, Culture, Sports, Science and Technology’s ‘Art Encouragement Prize for New Artists’.

Mouton Rothschild 2021 charity lot at Christie’s

Château Mouton Rothschild 2021 (specimen bottle). Credit: Courtesy of Mouton Rothschild.

Bordeaux’s 2021 vintage was particularly challenging from a weather perspective, although excellent wines were still made at many châteaux.

Decanter’s Bordeaux correspondent, Georgie Hindle, rated Mouton Rothschild 2021 at 96 points after tasting it en primeur.  

Christie’s said it was offering the one-off charity lot of Mouton Rothschild 2021 online until Friday 8 December at 17:00 (GMT+1). It said the lot includes:

• Six 75cl bottles
• Three magnums
• One double magnum
• One imperial (six litres)
• One nebuchadnezzar (15 litres) – the only one so far bottled in this vintage

The buyer and three guests will also be invited to tour Château Mouton Rothschild, and attend the unveiling of the 2022 vintage label at the estate next year. 

On top of that, chef Yannick Alléno, who holds 15 Michelin stars, will offer the buyer and three guests an immersive dining experience at Le Pavillon Ledoyen, his three-Michelin-star restaurant in Paris. 

The guests will be able to help prepare a service with the chef and his team, before dining with Alléno and a member of the family that owns Mouton Rothschild – during which dishes will be paired with vintages from the estate.

Alléno founded the charity Association Antoine Alléno following the tragic death of his son, Antoine, to help support families of young people who have suffered violence at the hands of a third party. 

Mouton Rothschild artist label series

The estate first commissioned artwork around its 1924 vintage, but it wasn’t until after the Second World War that this became an annual event – beginning with the now-legendary Mouton Rothschild 1945 vintage.

Artists who have previously designed vintage labels for Mouton Rothschild include Andy Warhol, Pablo Picasso, Francis Bacon, Annette Messager and David Hockney.

Peter Doig created the artwork for the Mouton Rothschild 2020 label, revealed last year.

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Inside the December 2023 issue of Decanter magazine:

FEATURES

• Fizz for the season Going beyond Champagne, Anne Krebiehl MW recommends the best of bubbles
• Producer profile: Château TrotteVieille An under-the-radar estate that’s a jewel in the crown of St-Emilion, says Georgie Hindle
• Côtes du Rhône Villages to enjoy this holiday Matt Walls selects four whites and 16 reds that offer some of the best value you’ll find
• Wine, TV & me Olly Smith reveals a behind-the-scenes glimpse of life and wine in front of the camera
• My perfect case of Port A treat for our Port expert Richard Mayson, picking the ideal 12 bottles of his choice, for Christmas and beyond
• Vintage preview: Chablis 2022 It’s a ‘very fine vintage’, says a delighted Andy Howard MW: 30 wines to snap up (and more online)

LEARNING

• Wine wisdom Expert tips to help you on your journey through wine

Read the new issue in full on the Decanter Premium app

Unlimited reviews | Exclusive articles | Recommendations | Priority booking | No ads

SPIRITS

• Distilled Spirits, cocktails, insight – plus five of the best in Calvados
• Christmas whiskies What to buy, for whom? Richard Woodard’s perfectly timed guide will help

GOOD LIVING

• Christmas with a twist Personal recipes from food editors, with wine-pairing by Fiona Beckett

BUYING GUIDE

• Editors’ picks Tasting highlights 
• Panel tasting: Blanc de Blancs Champagne Chardonnay’s the star: three Outstanding wines and 34 Highly recommended
• Panel tasting: New world Pinot Noir Australia, New Zealand and South Africa provide plenty of great drinking for Pinot lovers
• Expert’s choice: Cinsault Malu Lambert picks 18 of these offbeat, high-quality Cape reds
• Seasonal buys 34 top picks under £20 to enhance your festive table
• Festive treats £20-£50, 16 standout buys ideal to impress your guests

TOKAJ 2023

A sponsored supplement

• Magical Tokaj A welcome from Zsuzsa Toronyi of Wines of Hungary UK
• A perfect match Culinary inspiration from top UK restaurants. With Isa Bal MS & Natasha Hughes MW
• All about Aszú What it takes to make one of the world’s great sweet wines. By Caroline Gilby MW
• Tokaj travel Where to go and what to see in the Tokaj region. By Jonathan Wiggin
• UK stockists Where to find great sweet Tokaji wines

COLLECTORS

• Marketwatch investment news Auction updates; what’s on the radar; mature Bordeaux trends

REGULAR

• Meet the experts Decanter ‘s authors
• Uncorked News, views & more
• Andrew Jefford’s column Place and origins are critical in wines
• Guest column Joe Warwick on coping with the ‘festive fatigue’
• Christmas sorted A cornucopia of wine gifts for all and sundry
• Decanter Fine Wine Encounter 2023 Photos and highlights as our fantastic November tasting event returns to the Landmark Hotel
• DWWA 2023 highlights ‘Liquid gold’ – 14 outstanding sweet wines from around the world
• Wine to 5: Rob Cooke Chief operating officer, wine retail

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The post Decanter magazine latest issue: December 2023 appeared first on Decanter.

Years of strong growth have given way to a more mixed picture on the fine and rare whisky auction market in 2023, according to the latest annual report from Scottish corporate finance boutique Noble & Co in partnership with data intelligence group Brainnwave.

Figures show auction sales of whisky priced at more than £1,000 per bottle fell by 7% in value in the year to 30 September 2023, versus the previous 12 months, despite a 10% increase in volumes sold.

Findings, which are largely based on UK auction sales of single malt Scotch, add to evidence of greater uncertainty in the market this year.

New investors and enthusiasts are still coming into the fine and rare whisky auction market, but there is a shift towards lower-priced bottles, said the report’s authors. They noted a difficult macroeconomic backdrop, including high inflation. 

Data showed auction sales of whisky above £100-a-bottle rose by 17% in volume terms over the 12-month period, yet the total value of sales was flat on the previous year.

‘It has been a difficult year for fine and rare whisky investors,’ said Duncan McFadzean, head of food and drink at Noble & Co.

‘Fine and rare whiskies have enjoyed an almost unblemished reputation for being one of the best performing alternative investments available. What we now see is a mixed picture, where a growing volume of transactions is accompanied by weakening value per transaction.’ 

Ultra-rare whiskies are still capable of commanding stratospheric prices. 

Sotheby’s recently reported a new world record price for whisky at auction after it sold a bottle of The Macallan 1926 single malt Scotch for almost £2.2 million ($2.7m), including the buyer’s premium.

McFadzean added,  ‘While there will always be stand-out moments, such as the recent 1926 The Macallan sale, the broad picture suggests the market is softening.’ 

Price sensitivity at both the top and lower ends of the whisky auction market looks set to continue into 2024, due to weak economic conditions, said McFadzean. 

Noble & Co’s report said The Macallan remains the most popular distillery in the secondary market, with more than 26,500 bottles being traded at auction in the last 12 months.

The fastest-growing whisky brands by volume in the secondary market were:

• Tamdhu
• The Dalmore
• The Glenturret

Earlier this year, a whisky sub-index published within the Knight Frank Luxury Investment Index dropped by 4% in the year to 30 June.

UK merchant Bordeaux Index recently reported a slowdown in rare whisky price growth, although it didn’t see prices declining.

Recent signs of turbulence also follow strong growth for the market.

Knight Frank’s whisky sub-index, compiled by Rare Whisky 101 and tracking UK auction prices, was still up by 322% in 10 years. It far outpaced other luxury ‘passion investments’, including wine, jewellery, art, handbags and cars.

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The post Rare whisky auction market is ‘softening’, says new report appeared first on Decanter.

Looking for inspiration? Here are the best things to read, watch and listen to for wine lovers. We’ve picked out some of the top wine-related books, TV shows, podcasts and more for your enjoyment!

Read

On Burgundy

You might not be able to afford the top wines, but you can still read about them. Published in October 2023, this anthology of 59 wine tales endeavours to capture the essence of the region’s two main grapes, its terroirs and its special bottles. Contributors include Decanter’s Andrew Jefford, Allen Meadows, Eric Asimov and Aubert de Villaine. Many will no doubt turn straight to the essay on ‘Can Good Burgundy ever be for Normal People?’

Available through Académie du Vin Library

Vintage Crime: A Short History of Wine Fraud

Since ancient times the wine world has been plagued by criminals keen to make a fast buck, whether through ‘amelioration, adulteration or deception’. Rebecca Gibb
MW takes a romp through a history of wine crime – from the days of Imperial Rome to 21st-century New York – told chronologically through 10 wine frauds. Meet the fraudsters and their victims, the merchants, producers and collectors, in this entertaining and illuminating read.

Available through Amazon UK

Oxford Companion to Wine

First published in 1994, The Oxford Companion to Wine remains a definitive reference work on the subject. This fifth edition, edited by Julia Harding, Jancis Robinson MW and Tara Q Thomas, features more than 100 new writers (of a total 267) and over 270 new entries; every existing entry has also been reviewed and updated. Included for the first time are Estonia, Finland and Latvia – places previously considered too cold for winemaking – as well as Gabon, Senegal and Uganda.

Available through Oxford University Press

The Classic Wine Library Reader

Edited by Richard Mayson, this is an anthology of selected writing from titles published in the Classic Wine Library over the past decade. Sections include historical background, winemaking, regional perspectives and wines of note. Topics range from manzanilla Sherry to the origins of biodynamics and South Africa’s apartheid legacy and the wines of Japan. Look out for essays from Decanter contributors including Rebecca Gibb MW, Matt Walls, Anne Krebiehl MW and Stephen Brook. A lovely book to dip in and out of.

Available through Infinite Ideas

Watch

The Mega Trade

Wine educator Sam Povey set himself a challenge this summer: to trade his way, with his followers on social media, from a bottle of Yellowtail Shiraz all the way up to a bottle
of one of the world’s most expensive wines, Domaine de la Romanée Conti’s Romanée Conti. It’s all taking place on his entertaining and informative @sampovey.wine Instagram page. As Decanter‘s November issue went to press, he had worked his way up to Domaine Coffinet-Duvernay, Bâtard-Montrachet GC 2018.

Stefan Neumann’s Blind Tasting Course

Hosted by Master Sommelier Stefan Neumann, this online video course is aimed at anyone sitting wine exams that involve blind tasting, but will be useful to any wine lover looking to hone their skills. Fifty bite-sized videos lasting three hours in total are divided into nine modules, covering not only how to identify grape variety, region and vintage blind, but also how to sharpen your senses, build a taste profile and expand your vocabulary.

The Wines of Tomorrow

This three-part online series features conservations with winemakers, thinkers and innovators in the wine sphere. Hosted by Michelle Bouffard, a Canadian sommelier, wine educator, journalist and founder of the Tasting Climate Change conference, the first episode (live now) sees her chat to South African winemaker Andrea Mullineux. Further episodes will air on 11 October and 6 December. Free to Wine Scholar Guild members; non-members can enjoy one free replay.

Eastbound Westbound

Reviewed by James Mottram

US merchant Jeffrey Davies takes a sprightly ramble through the origins of Franco- American wine relations, first fostered by Thomas Jefferson when he visited Bordeaux in 1787. Davies meets four major wine families with links between the vineyards of California and Bordeaux. Directed by Julien Couson, the film’s historical re-enactments are a little amateur, but Davies’ amiable style, whether chatting to critic Robert Parker or Prince Robert of Luxembourg, brings this transatlantic love affair vividly alive. Apple TV+, Prime Video, Google Play

Listen

Looking Into Wine

What’s it like being the editor of Decanter magazine? Find out in a special 30-minute ‘Careers in Wine’ episode of Italian sommelier Mattia Scarpazza’s Looking Into Wine podcast. The interview with Amy Wislocki, who has been at the helm of the magazine for 23 years, touches on topics such as how Decanter has changed during that time, how to succeed as a wine writer, and how the magazine coped during the pandemic.

The Wine Conversation

The founder of this twice-monthly podcast, Sarah Kemp, was publisher and managing director of Decanter for more than 25 years, making her one of the most well-connected people in the wine world. The Wine Conversation features in-depth conversations with leading figures in wine alongside monthly Omnibus, magazine-style episodes, which cover wine news and expert views in an engaging, and consumer-friendly fashion.

The Wine CEO #133 Rhône

Each week, certified sommelier Sarah Roth covers a different wine topic aimed at helping wine lovers feel more confident. In this episode, she interviews Matt Walls, Decanter’s Rhône correspondent and author of Wines of the Rhône. Walls gives an overview of the Rhône valley, explaining just why the wines from the north and south are so different, and shares the top things you need to know about this region. Apple Podcasts, Spotify, other major podcast apps; also available via YouTube.

The Wine Makers

This weekly podcast is recorded in Sonoma Valley, with more than 285 episodes aired to date. Wine pros Sam Coturri, Bart Hansen, Brian Casey and host John Myers are joined by US winemakers such as Andy Beckstoffer and Diana Snowden Seysses – a Napa native now making wine in Burgundy – who chat about all aspects of their work. Relaxed conversation gives listeners fascinating insight into the joys, trials and tribulations of making wine. Themed episodes cover everything from compost and corks to bottle reuse programmes.

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The post Decanter Bookmarks: Things to read, watch and listen to for wine lovers appeared first on Decanter.

Wine growing areas in Canada’s western province of British Columbia (BC) have been severely impacted by compounding climate change-related crises this past year, including an extended deep freeze last winter, ongoing drought, and widespread wildfires this past summer.

In response, the BC Wine Grape Council (BCWGC) recently commissioned an assessment of the BC wine industry, and it has come to some alarming conclusions. It reported that 29% of BC’s 5,132 vineyard hectares are estimated to have succumbed to winter damage. Another 30% are estimated to suffer from permanent viral disease and require replanting to avoid mass spreading, meaning that up to 3,032ha of vines will need to be replanted. Estimated costs for the replant are between CA$162m and CA$317m.

The BCWGC study urged the Canadian federal and provincial governments to fund the vine renewal programme or face a significant contraction in BC’s wine industry.

‘The challenges facing grape growers and winemakers today are unlike anything we have experienced in the past,’ said BCWGC chair Ross Wise MW. ‘Climate change disasters along with increased incidence of virus and disease pressure are threatening the economic viability of our industry and we need funding in order to combat these major issues.’

The BCWGC study confirmed an earlier Winter Bud Damage Report, which estimated a vineyard crop loss of 54% across the board, resulting in a 20% reduction in vineyard and winery employment (totalling almost 400 lost jobs), a CA$133m decrease in the total revenues of BC vineyards and wineries, and a CA$100m reduction in government tax revenues attributable to BC wine, with further economic impacts on wine tourism-related hospitality and accommodation businesses throughout the province.

Christa-Lee McWatters, the Wine Growers British Columbia (WGBC) board chair, said, ‘The replant funding outlined in this study is in line with federal and provincial investment seen elsewhere in Canada and is certainly warranted given the significance of the economic impact of BC’s wineries. In 2019 the total economic impact of the BC wine industry was CA$3.75bn with CA$440m in tax revenue alone.’

A WGBC news release noted that in order for the replant programme to be successful, industry stakeholders agreed that specific programme guidelines would be required to ensure the health and vitality of the new plantings.

This news comes in the context of a global drop in wine production, primarily due to extreme weather events. For example, the International Organisation of Vine and Wine (OIV) recently announced that global wine production is set to fall to its lowest level since 1961 this year, hit by soaring temperatures and extraordinary flooding. Fueling that decline are expected drops of 12% and 14% in output in Italy and Spain, the world’s biggest and third-biggest producers in 2022, respectively.

It’s not all bad news however. Several BC winegrowers note that this shakeup is also a timely opportunity to plant better-adapted grape varieties in more appropriate locations than has been done previously. Winemakers are optimists by nature, so maybe there is a silver lining in this news.

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Legendary wine Penfolds Grange is one of the six labels making up the company’s luxury and icon portfolio that will be distributed via La Place de Bordeaux as of 30 January 2024, the group announced.

The deal covers Europe, the Middle East and Africa (EMEA), and represents an expanded relationship between Bordeaux négociants and Penfolds, which is owned by Treasury Wine Estates but has been run as a separate division since 2021.

It’s also a major boost for La Place de Bordeaux and its international distribution network.

Négociants making up La Place are increasingly working with working with fine wines produced around the globe, on top of long-standing partnerships with leading Bordeaux châteaux from Médoc to St-Emilion.

A Penfolds spokesperson confirmed that the new deal extends to distributing wines in the UK, alongside arrangements with existing partners in the country.

Penfolds has been present on La Place de Bordeaux for two years, having made its debut with the 2018 vintage of Bin 169 Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon. 

This is one of six luxury labels included in the new deal. Penfolds said the full list is: 

• Penfolds Grange (‘Bin 95’)
• Yattarna Bin 144 Chardonnay
• Bin 707 Cabernet Sauvignon
• Bin 789 RWT Shiraz
• Bin 169 Cabernet Sauvignon
• St Henri Shiraz

Daevid Warren, sales director for Penfolds EMEA, said, ‘As Penfolds enters its 180^th year, we are looking to take the brand to the next level by establishing new routes to market, as well as delivering exceptional marketing programs to drive greater awareness of Penfolds as a global luxury icon of the wine world.

‘We’re therefore delighted to be reinforcing our first-class team of distributors in the region for our luxury & icons range with a selected group of 11 négociants, partnering with [courtier firm] Excellence Vin, the leading historical expert for the introduction of the iconic wines of the world on La Place de Bordeaux.’

Excellence Vin added, ‘This is an important step for Penfolds and for La Place; we are grateful for their trust and the professionalism that has been brought to this project since the first day of our collaboration.’

Penfolds announced the release of its 2023 Collection, including Penfolds Grange 2019 and Bin 169 Cabernet Sauvignon 2021, earlier this year.

La Place de Bordeaux on the rise

More than 100 international fine wines were part of the most recent ‘beyond Bordeaux’ release season in September 2023.

Some international merchants have their reservations about the model, but La Place de Bordeaux has been strongly expanding its position as a distribution hub for top wines from elsewhere in France and around the world.

For producers, La Place offers an opportunity to reach a wider pool of collectors and fine wine lovers in selected markets. For négociants, it’s a way of expanding sales alongside their traditional distribution of Bordeaux wines.

Liv-ex, a global marketplace for the trade, said in October that international merchants reported mixed results from the most recent September releases campaign, amid buyer caution in the market more generally.

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The post Penfolds Grange joins La Place de Bordeaux  appeared first on Decanter.

A total of 71 establishments made the cut in the Michelin Guide Buenos Aires & Mendoza 2024, with Aramburu, located in the capital’s Recoleta district, awarded two stars for its excellent 18-course haute cuisine tasting menu experience conceived by chef Gonzalo Aramburu for the past 16 years.

Gwendal Poullennec, international director of Michelin Guides, noted the high quality of cooks, in particular the up-and-coming generation. ‘Our inspectors were impressed to discover Argentina has a lot of talented and open-minded chefs – and many of them are quite young,’ he said.

The proof was in the pudding: of the six one-stars, two are helmed by sub-30 cooks. At the capital city’s fledgling Trescha, which opened last April, 25-year-old Tomás Treschanski’s experimental 14-course tasting menu is boosted by 740 labels and a 5,000-strong wine cellar that’s managed by head sommelier Pilar Carelli; Treschanski also won the Young Chef prize.

And in Mendoza, 30-year-old Augusto García of Zonda Cocina de Paisaje at Bodega Lagarde celebrates regional produce across four menus, cultivating many herbs and leafy vegetables in the restaurant’s own organic garden. The wine team has the luxury of dipping into the winery’s family cellar to select vintages such as the legendary 1942 Semillón, as well as magnums and double magnums: Zonda also picked up a coveted green star for its approach to sustainability.

Other restaurants headed by young sub-35 talents worth keeping an eye on include Mengano, Anafe, Reliquia, Chui, Niño Gordo, Na Num, Julia, Piedra Pasillo al Fondo, La Carnicería and Ácido in Buenos Aires – the former three given Bib Gourmand awards for good quality and good value – and Mendoza’s Quimera Bistró at Achaval Ferrer winery. Rather than cooking up elaborate tasting menus, they take a casual family-style approach, breaking away from the white-table cloth dining experiences for which Michelin’s inspectors are traditionally known to appreciate.

Mendoza

The guide’s launch proved bountiful for Argentina’s largest wine-producing province. Mendoza is now home to four one-star restaurants, three greens and 15 recommendations. At Casa Vigil, which, like Zonda, took home both red and green stars, chef Iván Azar creates a seasonal and regional menu served up in a vineyard setting, while head sommelier Joaquín Díaz and his 14-strong team browse winemaker Alejandro Vigil’s catalogue of vintages that span El Enemigo and Catena Zapata.

While Argentina is known for its delicious grilled meats, Juan Ventureyra at Riccitelli Bistró prefers to take inspiration from foraging to create a plant-led menu; his approach earned the restaurant a green star. Other winery-located restaurants tipped the Michelin wink included 2023 opening Angélica Cocina Maestra at Catena Zapata, 5 Suelos at Familia Durigutti, Osadía de Crear at Susana Balbo Wines, Fogón at Lagarde, Renacer, and Ruca Malen, all in Luján de Cuyo; Piedra Infinita at Zuccardi in Uco Valley; Espacio Trapiche in Maipú; and Abrasado at Los Toneles and 1884 Francis Mallmann at Escorihuela Gascón in Godoy Cruz.

Meanwhile, independent restaurants Azafrán and Brindillas both received stars, while just one hotel-based establishment, La VidA at SB Winemaker’s House, was recommended.

Buenos Aires

Back in the Argentine capital, 52 establishments received recommendations or stars, with many familiar faces among them. Known for its epic cellar that houses 50,000 wines spanning more than 1,500 labels, Parrilla Don Julio was awarded both green and red stars, while wine director Martín Bruno, a former national sommelier champion, won the Michelin Sommelier prize; sister establishment El Preferido de Palermo also took home a green accolade. Meanwhile, other restaurants with strong wine programmes include Roux, Sucre, Casa Cavia, Anchoíta and Crizia, the latter two green star winners.

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The post Michelin reveals Argentina’s first guide appeared first on Decanter.

Caroline Frey, owner of Paul Jaboulet Aîné, has decided to uncouple La Chapelle (and its white counterpart, Le Chevalier de Sterimberg) from the Paul Jaboulet Aîné brand by creating a separate entity, Domaine de la Chapelle, which will be the new home for these two wines.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for the 2022 Domaine de la Chapelle red and white wines

Tasting notes and scores for the 2022 Domaine de la Chapelle red and white wines:

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Northern Rhône 2022: Full report and top-scoring wines

Southern Rhône 2022: Full report and top-scoring wines

Rhône 2022 en primeur diary: The north

The post Walls: The next step for Jaboulet’s Hermitage La Chapelle appeared first on Decanter.

It was pure and driving in the mouth, clearly acid-structured and hence intense – yet age had brought a softening, a tenderness, a singing quality. This was not a harsh, abrupt wine to sip but, like the aromas, expansive; poised yet mellow. Indeed the aromatic trace of the fruit on the tongue had a perfumed lift: an uncommon trait, but always lovely.

The wine was so refined and choice that I swallowed, greedily and unprofessionally – and thought of the vineyard I had just walked through. The way it looked. That mass of bright limestone pebbles in a nourishing matrix of loamy clay… I’ve seen that before. Hmm… hang on a minute…

I try to avoid facile comparisons of this sort. Every vineyard and every wine-growing region is unique: itself and only itself, subject to its own laws of site and sky and season, freighted down with its own disasters and joys. And yet, and yet. I was 6,000km from the Côte d’Or, but this glass of Pinot and the mental image I retained of its vineyard insisted on some sort of comparison. The wine? Norman Hardie’s Unfiltered County Pinot Noir 2014 from Prince Edward County in Canada’s Ontario.

I should stress the differences. The Ontario wine had just 10.5% alcohol. That’s a minus for me: I like alcohol and the wealth, warmth and emotion it sends coursing through a wine (and my veins). This wine, though, had perfect balance, its resonant acidity matched by the inner sweetness and length which can only come from teased, full-season ripeness and its sage gift of alcohol. It didn’t taste short, like an early-picked wine from a warmer site.

‘You can’t duplicate maturity,’ as Hardie’s fellow winemaker Keith Tyers at Closson Chase says. ‘You can’t replace the texture.’

In autumn 2014, the wine’s mother vines had come through the first of two brutal, vine-killing Canadian winters. Prince Edward County is a broad, water-incised peninsula, almost an island, dangling like a broad-shouldered bunch of grapes into Lake Ontario from its northern shoreline.

Unlike the Niagara Peninsula, on the other side of the lake and down at the western end, Prince Edward County has water on the southern side only. To the north lies the Arctic. Its winters are almost boreal. As in China’s Ningxia, the vines must be buried through the dark months, like hibernating chipmunks.

‘If I’d known,’ says Hardie’s fellow Pinoteer Colin Stanners of the eponymous winery, ‘how difficult this business of hilling up and preparing for the winter is, I might never have started here. It really limits our yields; with hilling you never get more than 70% recovered buds.’

Higher yields are possible by creating little geotextile tents over the pruned canes, as many of their fellow growers now do. For all that, Hardie prefers hilling; the clay, he says, that provides the matrix for the region’s limestone needs (in this climate) to be moved and aerated.

‘The County’, as it’s known, doesn’t just produce fine Pinot from the likes of Hardie and Stanners. The Closson Chase Chardonnays are excellent; Pinot Gris can be good if terse; and Jonas Newman and Vicki Samaras at Hinterland have been making impressive sparkling wine, led by an exceptional blanc de blancs.

Everyone, though, faces the same challenges from the weather, with intermittent winter vine kill and inconsistent summers occasionally producing vintage wipeouts. It’s not certain that global warming will help, since the depth of Lake Ontario (244m at its deepest; that’s 802 feet) holds change in check. Optimism is always tempered here. ‘There’s no fake news,’ Hardie says, ‘from Mother Nature.’

They all keep going, though, just waiting for those generous vintages and the occasional glimpses of greatness and glory they imply. Wine places that can give drinkers greatness and glory in a glass, no matter how occasional, are rare.

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The post Andrew Jefford: ‘The wine was so refined and choice that I swallowed, greedily’ appeared first on Decanter.

Côte-Rôtie

Young Côte-Rôties are normally fairly easy to read, but that wasn’t the case with the 2022s. Many of them appeared very fruity, with soft structures, lacking energy and aromatic detail. There were some excellent exceptions however, often from those originating from old vines grown on schist and fermented with a proportion of whole bunch.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for top-scoring Côte-Rôtie & Condrieu 2022 wines

See all 400 Rhône 2022 tasting notes and scores

Rhône 2022 full vintage report and top-scoring wines

Northern Rhône 2022: Full report and top-scoring wines

Matt Walls’ top-scoring Côte-Rôtie & Condrieu 2022 wines:

The wines below all scored 95 points or above, and are listed Condrieu then Côte-Rôtie in score order.

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The post Côte-Rôtie & Condrieu 2022: Report and top-scoring wines appeared first on Decanter.