Wine Travel – Decanter https://www.decanter.com The world’s most prestigious wine website, including news, reviews, learning, food and travel Mon, 11 Dec 2023 15:12:36 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://keyassets.timeincuk.net/inspirewp/live/wp-content/uploads/sites/34/2019/01/cropped-Decanter_Favicon-Brand-32x32.png Wine Travel – Decanter https://www.decanter.com 32 32 Ten of the best bars and restaurants in Milan for wine lovers https://www.decanter.com/wine-travel/best-milan-restaurants-wine-lovers-395103/ Mon, 11 Dec 2023 06:00:33 +0000 https://www.decanter.com/?p=395103 Andrea Aprea Milan chefs in kitchen
Andrea Aprea restaurant, Milan.

Top spots to enjoy food and wine in this on-trend city...

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Andrea Aprea Milan chefs in kitchen
Andrea Aprea restaurant, Milan.

In a city driven by the cyclical whims of fashion, one constant remains: the Milanese enjoy their wine! With some of Italy’s best wine regions within an hour’s drive, there’s never a shortage of options.

One clear trend in Milan is the natural wine movement, which continues at a breathtaking pace. Use the guide below to seek out everything the city has to offer, from the latest natural wine bars to the Milan’s only rooftop ‘ethical hour’ restaurant, plus Michelin-star dining.

Best bars and restaurants in Milan for wine lovers

Horto

Horto Milan Terrace

Horto’s beautiful rooftop terrace. Credit: Horto

Launched in September 2022 on the rooftop of The Medelan complex, Horto explores gastronomy through the concept of the ‘ethical hour’. Executive chef, Alberto Toè – under the direction of Norbert Niederkofler – sources ingredients from small farmers and dairies outside Milan, including Varzese beef for carpaccio, and a nearly forgotten raw-milk blue cheese called Strachítunt used as filling for plin dumplings.

While the wine list stretches beyond the one-hour limit imposed on food, every bottle reflects the restaurant’s ethos, with selections from small producers in the natural, organic and biodynamic realms.

Andrea Aprea

Milan-wine-bars-and-restuarants-AndreaAprea_Restaurant

Andrea Aprea’s intimate dining space. Credit: Massi Ninni / Andrea Aprea

With multiple accolades, including two Michelin stars, Andrea Aprea lures wine-loving gastronomes to the top floor of the new art museum of the Luigi Rovati Foundation. The large, modern dining room anchored by a Murano chandelier seats only a handful of tables each night, creating the illusion of both space and intimacy.

Chef Aprea, easily spotted in the kitchen doorway, delivers a multi-course masterclass in texture, colour and flavour. The wine list reflects the artistic and intellectual ambition of the menu, boasting over 650 labels spanning blue-chips to rare or undiscovered treasures. The best option is to let the sommelier choose the pairings.

Cru wine bar

Cru Arc Milano Wine bar

Cru Arc. Credit: Cru

Jacopo Ercolani, his brother and friends founded Cru in 2018. Ercolani developed an appreciation for minimal intervention wines after leaving the communications industry to work as a sommelier. Today, Cru boasts two locations, both casual, with a focus on wines by the glass and locally sourced cheese and charcuterie boards, including products from Le Marche, where Ercolani is from.

Cru Arc (near Arco della Pace) is a diminutive spot with only 10 interior seats but an outdoor dehors with 30-35 spots. Cru Island (Isola area) offers double the interior space plus terrace seating. Cru’s roster of producers spans 300 winemakers from Europe, with the glass pour changing daily. Don’t be shy about asking staff for help; they deftly match a guest’s taste preferences to the right bottle.

Enoteca/Naturale

Enoteca/Naturale operates as both a wine bar and restaurant, nestled within the pretty setting of Milan’s Parco delle Basiliche in the Ticinese area. While the rotation of 4,000 wine labels provides a point of distinction from its peers, the venue’s unique business model sets it apart: sharing space with Emergency, a humanitarian foundation providing care to people affected by conflict and poverty, Enoteca/Naturale opened in 2018 as an ‘SRL Benefit’ company.

Though for-profit, it promotes social integration and workforce diversity, notably by hiring immigrants. With an extensive selection of wines by the glass poured by an educated yet unpretentious staff, patronising Enoteca/Naturale provides a win-win model for guests and the community.

Vineria Eretica

Vineria Eretica has attracted natural wine drinkers to its intimate space close to Milano Centrale since 2019. Owner Giuseppe Bertini has curated an outstanding list of natural wines encompassing hard-to-find French labels and Italian and other European counterparts.

If Bertini is around, tap his deep knowledge of producers and styles while sampling small plates prepared with organic ingredients. Decorative touches, primarily vintage movie posters and memorabilia, reflect Bertini’s love of cinema.

Champagne Socialist

Founded in 2017 by the same proprietors as Forno Collettivo bakery, Champagne Socialist sits close to Corso Buenos Aires shopping street in Porta Venezia. Inside, however, the ambience is anything but haute fashion.

Peeling paint and exposed cement walls lined with wine bottles evoke an underground cellar. Organised by region, primarily Italian wines complement a selection of sandwiches and cheese and charcuterie boards. Monthly tastings led by featured producers allow guests to mingle with natural winemakers at the bar.

www.instagram.com/csocialist

Vinoir

Generally considered Milan’s first natural wine enoteca, Vinoir has persisted since 2012 as a favoured spot for those seeking small production and minimal intervention selections from Italy and beyond.

Located beyond the tourist fray, in the outskirts of the Navigli district, owner Gianluca Ladu and his wife Maddalena attract a dedicated crowd eager for conversation, education, producer tastings and affordable small plates like fresh handmade pasta. As a retail shop, guests who fall for a glass can purchase a bottle to take home.

Bicerin

Bicerin Milan

Recline in vintage chairs while choosing from the 800-strong wine list at Bicerin. Credit: Bicerin

Dark paint, mirrored glass and vintage chairs in velvet and brocade evoke sipping inside a wine-obsessed antique dealer’s shop. Instead, Bicerin is the brainchild of three friends – Iris Romano, Lorenzo Viola and Alberto Gugliada – who designed the elegant setting to support their cache of 800 labels; many mature, rare and fine wines available to taste using the Coravin system.

Guests can relax in one of the lounge areas or book the ‘wine library’ for a personal tasting organised around lunch or dinner. The à la carte menu showcases seasonal, local produce and ingredients, from rabbit with potato gratin to gnocchi with artichokes and mortadella.

Rovello 18

This warm and welcoming trattoria opened in 2002 but remains an insider’s secret for its deep wine list, especially for grower Champagne. With over 800 bins, one can get lost in the selection process, though there’s a price point for everyone, whether a €30 Dolcetto d’Alba or an €850 magnum of aged Barolo.

The food is as much a draw as the wine list, with classic dishes like vitello tonnato, fassona steak tartare, and veal chop Milanese earning the family founders a Michelin guide nod.

Beefbar

Beefbar Milan interior

Beefbar has a glamorous 1950s feel. Credit: Marion Butet Studio / Beefbar

Style-conscious wine drinkers started flocking to Beefbar after it opened in March 2023. Located near Portrait Milano, a former seminary restored into the city’s poshest hotel, Beefbar taps retro and contemporary interior design trends. Think 1950s Italian glamour replete with arches, curved lines and velvet banquettes.

Though it offers a break from the formality of traditional meat palaces, notably with comfort dishes and global flavours such as Kobe beef carbonara and lemon and yuzu osso bucco risotto, the wine list serves the red wine-and-ribeye crowd. Well known labels from Piedmont and Tuscany steal the show, with a supporting cast from the rest of Italy and France.


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Ultimate Marlborough road trip https://www.decanter.com/wine/ultimate-marlborough-road-trip-517821/ Tue, 05 Dec 2023 07:00:25 +0000 https://www.decanter.com/?p=517821 Picton town and its sheltered harbour for the Cook Strait ferry, Marlborough
Picton town and its sheltered harbour for the Cook Strait ferry.

Oliver Styles guides you on the ultimate road trip in this stunning region...

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Picton town and its sheltered harbour for the Cook Strait ferry, Marlborough
Picton town and its sheltered harbour for the Cook Strait ferry.

Marlborough’s problem is one of transition: for people visiting New Zealand, even for many nationals, it is a place you go past if you’re going somewhere else. Its location – a 30-minute drive south of Picton (the main port of entry to the South Island via the Cook Strait car ferry from Wellington) – means people are either trying to make it north to the ferry or continuing south to Christchurch, Otago or even west to Nelson and the West Coast region.

That’s a shame because Marlborough has everything to offer if you just stop and take a bit more time. Its main centre Blenheim is a functional town but set in beautiful part of New Zealand. And the mountains and hills feel close, especially the dramatic Richmond Range to the north.

Indeed, as Auntsfield winemaker Luc Cowley pointed out, you can always orient yourself in the Wairau Valley, Marlborough’s main wine-growing area: the blue mountains (the Richmond Ranges) lie to the north and the green mountains lie to the south. These latter are more a shade of brown in summer, hence their name: the Wither Hills.

The Marlborough Sounds, too – a collection of ancient valleys flooded with Pacific ocean waters along a 1,500km stretch of coastline – is a stone’s throw away. While many patrons of the car ferry admire its beauty as they pass through the parade of pristine, almost uninhabited bays and coves before hopping in their vehicle and driving on, it is a very good reason to hang around.

Diversity in abundance

There is much else on offer in Marlborough – and that is true of the wines, too. The region has considerably more to recommend it than the Sauvignon Blanc upon which it made its reputation. What’s more, most cellar doors are focused in a relatively small and easily navigable area around Blenheim and Renwick 8km to its west, with the region’s airport lying in between.

In this road trip, we’ve allocated two days to the Wairau Valley so visitors can really get an idea of how diverse the sub-region and its wines can be. Further information can be found on the wine tourism map at marlboroughwinenz.com, while the more energetic traveller can take advantage of local bicycle routes.

We’ve grouped our three-day itinerary so it can easily be rearranged. For instance, those travelling down from North Island could arrive in Picton and head straight to the Marlborough Sounds before returning to Picton the next morning and heading south to Blenheim. Both days 1 and 2 finish around Renwick, which allows travellers to take the 1.5-hour drive along State Highway 6 (SH6) further west to Nelson.

If you only have two days available, start with the day 2 itinerary then do day 1’s suggested trip in reverse (ie, drive out to Renwick and head up SH6 before turning east onto Rapaura Road). Fit in the wineries you want before continuing on Rapaura Road to meet SH1 and continue your journey south.


Day one: Wairau Valley from Blenheim

Nautilus Estate’s main entrance and cellar door on Rapaura Road, Renwick

Nautilus Estate’s main entrance and cellar door on Rapaura Road, Renwick

Grab a breakfast coffee and toastie from Sammies on Scott Street. A Kimcheese (kimchi and cheese – add a pork and fennel sausage pattie if you want) is a monumental start to anyone’s day. From there, it’s a short drive just out of town to Lawson’s Dry Hills – a pioneer of sustainable practices in Marlborough and producer of fine aromatic white wines. From here, a variation on our itinerary would be a 15-minute drive down State Highway One (SH1) to Seddon and the Awatere Valley. This sub-region is slightly cooler than the main Wairau Valley and contains many newer – and sizeable – vineyard plantings, which deliver some truly exciting wines. One of the few cellar doors here is Yealands.

But our main route heads north on SH1 for 15 minutes, crossing the Wairau river to stop off the roundabout at Tuamarina to visit the memorial to the Wairau Affray of 1843 and a glimpse of the country’s often violent colonial past.

From Tuamarina, head back the way you came and turn right onto Rapaura Road at Spring Creek where a number of wineries have their cellar doors. We suggest the pan-regional Saint Clair and idiosyncratic Rock Ferry on the way to a tasting and lunch at Cloudy Bay on Jacksons Road. One of Marlborough’s flagship brands, owned by French luxury goods giant LVMH, its cellar door will impress even the most corporate-cynical.

From Cloudy Bay, get back onto Rapaura Road and head west (and then south) to Renwick. There are many wineries on this stretch, so how many you have time for will depend on how long that lunch was.

The proudly organic Te Whare Ra is one of Marlborough’s must-visit wineries and Framingham has a well-deserved reputation for its Rieslings. Hans Herzog produces a range of unexpected varieties and wines, while Huia is an unsung gem. Bubbles fans can stop in at No1 Family Estate, while Nautilus provides a glimpse into day 2 as some of its fruit (in particular its Pinot Noir) is sourced from the Southern Valleys sub-region. And the excellent Fromm is near the airport on your 11-minute drive back to Blenheim.

Day two: Southern Valleys from Blenheim

Winemaker Jules Taylor under bird netting at The Wrekin vineyard in Brancott Valley.

Winemaker Jules Taylor under bird netting at The Wrekin vineyard in Brancott Valley. Credit: Lisa Duncan Photography

Fuel up for the day at Burleigh Gourmet Pies, a Marlborough landmark on the southwestern edge of Blenheim town – try the signature pork belly pie. Then, just a few hundred metres west along New Renwick Road is the turn-off for the Omaka Aviation Heritage Centre (see ‘address book’, below), which includes Sir Peter Jackson’s impressive collection of World War I aircraft.

Back on New Renwick Road and the turn-off south to Auntsfield marks the first stop on our Southern Valleys wine tour where wind-blown loess has settled in the valleys and provided the clay so essential to its Pinot Noir.

Brancott Valley is the next one along and, although there are no major cellar doors, a number of producers source fruit from here, and Dog Point sits at the base of the ridge that separates Brancott Valley from Omaka Valley. At the head of the Brancott Valley lie two vineyards with stellar reputations: Clayvin, now part of Giesen, and The Wrekin. The latter’s excellent organic fruit is used by numerous brands and highlighted on their wine labels, from one-man-band outfits to the more established Jules Taylor Wines.

Back onto the New Renwick Road again and continuing onto Dog Point Road, Omaka Valley is the next one along, and here you’ll find the must-visit Greywacke – make sure you book an appointment-only, no-charge tasting in advance (weekdays 11am or 2pm) by emailing through the website.

Drive back up towards Renwick to take the SH63 west a short distance before ducking down to the more expansive Waihopai Valley. Once home to the New Zealand government’s not-so-secret satellite listening facility (the huge white domes have since been dismantled, although the facility is still in operation), it also houses Spy Valley Wines and Churton – both well worth a visit, although Churton is by appointment only.

Finally, call in at nearby Clos Henri, which is owned by the Bourgeois family from Sancerre in the Loire, before heading back to Blenheim.

Day three: Picton, Nelson, Marlborough Sounds

Bay of Many Coves Resort

Bay of Many Coves Resort

Time to head into the locals’ playground: the stunning Marlborough Sounds. Drive up to Picton with a quick stop at Johanneshof cellar door on the way. Once in town, park the car, check the ferry timetable and stop in at Toastie for a snack while you wait. There is a range of truly breathtaking resorts and lodges throughout the Sounds, each of which offers a variety of activities, but Punga Cove, Bay of Many Coves Resort and Furneaux Lodge are among those recommended.

The more adventurous early-riser might want to combine this leg with a spot of guided kayaking or a stint on the Queen Charlotte Track, a 71km-long walking and biking track running from Anakiwa, at the head of Queen Charlotte Sound in the south (about 30 minutes’ drive from Picton) to Meretoto/Ship Cove in the north of the Sounds. A local operator such as Wilderness Guides should steer you in the right direction.

Once you’ve chosen your activity, board the ferry, or bike, walk or paddle your way to your chosen destination. Then, whether you’ve hiked, paddled, snorkeled, sailed or cycled – or merely strolled the jetty – it’s time to sit back and relax with a glass of Marlborough wine.


An illustrated map of Marlborough

Credit: Maggie Nelson

How to get there

If you already have your own vehicle, Cook Strait ferries run between Wellington and Picton, the journey time being around 3.5 hours; otherwise it’s a 300km (4-4.5 hour) scenic drive from Christchurch. Otherwise, hire a car after arriving into Marlborough Airport Blenheim: Air New Zealand flies from Auckland and Wellington, and Sounds Air runs limited services from Christchurch, Wellington and Paraparaumu.


Your Marlborough address book

Marlborough Wine & Food Festival

Marlborough Wine & Food Festival. Credit: Richard Briggs

Accommodation

14th Lane
Ideally located in central Blenheim. Formerly The Builder’s Arms, the views aren’t great and it boasts no restaurant or bar, but the rooms more than compensate.

Furneaux Lodge
Tucked all the way up in the stunning Marlborough Sounds, just over the hill from Captain Cook’s favourite NZ anchorage, this place is as magical in the rain as it is in the sun.

Hotel d’Urville
Full of character, both inside and out, the rear bar flows into an outside area which doesn’t quite match the inside vibe but is surprisingly comfortable on summer evenings.

Restaurants & cafés

Arbour
The fine-dining Marlborough experience on everyone’s lips, winemakers included. Named NZ’s Best Regional Restaurant in 2022 by Cuisine, it also has a coveted ‘two hats’ rating from the food and drink lifestyle publication.

Frank’s Oyster Bar and Eatery
Another restaurant that comes recommended by local winemakers, you’ll find this one in central Blenheim.

The Store
In Kekerengu, a 50-minute drive south of Blenheim on SH1, its sweeping vistas across a wild coastline make it well worth the stop on the way to Christchurch.

Things to do

Festivals
The summer months of January, February and March respectively feature the Picton Maritime Festival, the Marlborough Wine & Food Festival and the Havelock Mussel and Seafood Festival.

Marlborough Farmers Market
Held on Sundays at Blenheim’s A&P showgrounds, this is a great way to enjoy a range of regional produce with a minimum of travel.

Omaka Aviation Heritage Centre
A must-visit for historic aircraft enthusiasts, or for an extra-special occasion, this renowned aviation museum at Blenheim offers the chance to book a flight on a fully restored World War II-era Avro Anson – a package starting at NZ$990 (£475) per person including a 25-minute flight. Or a 20-minute flight in a Boeing Stearman biplane, costing NZ$395 (£189) for one or two people.


Love NZ Sauvignon?

See our January 2024 issue (on sale from Wednesday 3 January 2024) for an extensive panel tasting of more than 200 current-release New Zealand Sauvignon Blancs, with notes and scores by judges Roger Jones, Freddy Bulmer and Cat Lomax.


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Ten reasons to rediscover Languedoc plus the wines to seek out https://www.decanter.com/premium/ten-reasons-to-rediscover-languedoc-plus-the-wines-to-seek-out-514863/ Fri, 01 Dec 2023 08:00:57 +0000 https://www.decanter.com/?p=514863 rediscover Languedoc
Vines of Mas Bruguière beneath the Montagne d’Hortus ridge in the Pic St-Loup appellation, north of Montpellier

Rethink this vibrant and diverse region, and pick some top buys...

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rediscover Languedoc
Vines of Mas Bruguière beneath the Montagne d’Hortus ridge in the Pic St-Loup appellation, north of Montpellier

A region as vast and geographically complicated as Languedoc is difficult, if not impossible, to generalise about. With so many appellations, topographies, microclimates, grape varieties and terroirs, it’s more than just the sum of its parts. Languedoc has moved into a new era, extending beyond the tropes of ‘great value’ and ‘rustic, hearty reds’.

Now is the time to discover the cutting edge of what’s happening in this region. Run, don’t walk, to snap up the exciting wines of Languedoc.


Scroll down to see notes and scores for 10 Languedoc wines worth seeking out



Rediscover Languedoc: 10 wines to tempt


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City guide to Catania https://www.decanter.com/wine/city-guide-to-catania-515563/ Thu, 30 Nov 2023 07:00:18 +0000 https://www.decanter.com/?p=515563 Domes around Sant'Agata cathedral in central Catania with Mount Etna in the background to the north.
Domes around Sant'Agata cathedral in central Catania with Mount Etna in the background to the north.

Sicily’s second largest city is a Baroque wonder...

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Domes around Sant'Agata cathedral in central Catania with Mount Etna in the background to the north.
Domes around Sant'Agata cathedral in central Catania with Mount Etna in the background to the north.

The east coast port of Catania is Sicily’s second-largest city after Palermo. Its central position means it is perfectly placed for trips south to Syracuse, Noto and Ragusa and north to Taormina and Mount Etna. As such it offers a gateway to the most interesting wine areas of eastern Sicily: to the south, Cerasuolo di Vittoria DOCG and Noto DOC for Nero d’Avola; and north for the exceptional Etna DOC wines of Carricante and Nerello Mascalese that have exploded onto the market in the past 20 years. It’s worth allowing a day or two to explore UNESCO World Heritage Catania before setting off on your wine tours.

Like so much of southeastern Sicily, Catania was decimated in 1693 by an earthquake, the destruction having been likened to London after the Great Fire of 1666. Gone were the layers of culture accumulated through centuries of Greek, Byzantine, Arab and Norman domination.

The buildings that rose from the rubble in these cities – including hundreds of churches and countless palazzi – were fortuitously built in the Baroque style, the fashion of the day. In Catania, the decorative drama is accentuated by the contrast of local black volcanic stone and white plaster and marble. The historic centre has benefited from investment in recent years and is handsomely laid out around an easy grid.

Where to stay

Treat yourself to a colourful stay in Hotel Asmundo di Gisira, a handsome palazzo with themed rooms, art collections and buyable antiques. It’s an eclectic venue with a rooftop terrace offering stunning views of the city and Etna. Hotel Bastiò Suites contrasts modern decor with an ancient building in the heart of the city.

Where to eat

Catanian traditional food is saporito (‘full of flavour’), based on seasonal vegetables grown on Etna’s mineral-rich soils, accented with salt-cured capers from Salina, local citrus and Bronte pistachios. Breakfast in summer is a fruit-driven frozen granita eaten with a pillowy brioche. Lunch in town at Antica Marina, one of the restaurants built within the walls of the central fish market. It features seafood raw and cooked, pasta with squid ink or the day’s catch and a decent local wine list. A more staid dinner can be had at La Siciliana, where traditional dishes shine in a wood-panelled interior. My favourite is pasta alla Norma, named for native son Vincenzo Bellini’s courageous opera heroine. It features tomato sauce, fried aubergines and ricotta salata cheese.

Where to drink

The most complete collection of Sicilian wines and speciality foods can be found at Nelson. Two locations in the same street offer an inspiring shop and wine bar. The shop is a dream: hundreds of Sicilian wines from every corner of its islands, along with oils pressed from native olives including Tonda Iblea and Nocellara del Belice, lemon honey, pistachio creams, cheeses, legumes and much more. Its website is great and the best thing is that it will ship, so you can have a weight-free spree. Under the archway is Nelson’s newly opened wine bar where almost all these wines are offered by the glass accompanied by local cheeses and other snacks in a relaxed interior. If you’re after informal food, wine and cocktails, try Uzeta Bistro Siciliano and enjoy the city’s best arancini or a plate of pasta on a lively outside terrace.

Places to visit

My favourite place to stay is about 25 minutes’ drive north from Catania, at Maugeri winery, where architect Carla Maugeri’s family makes wine on Etna’s eastern slopes. Zash is its spectacular boutique hotel, set in citrus groves. She has designed the villa’s 10 stylish rooms and spa and created an unforgettable one-star Michelin restaurant in what was the estate’s palmento: the vast stone vinification barn that once produced the family’s wine. It’s complete with vaulted ceilings and the original press, crafted from a centuries-old chestnut trunk – a perfect mix of old and new with elegant food and wines.


La Pescheria fish market

Credit: Tom McLeish

Insider tip

Don’t miss the fish market, La Pescheria, that has held a central position in the port for millennia, located across the main piazza from Sant’Agata cathedral. It has shrunk in the past 20 years but still offers a compellingly theatrical spectacle where tuna, swordfish, squid and sea urchins star. It can be viewed from a raised gallery for those who don’t want to get their feet wet.


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Slovenia: A wine lover’s guide https://www.decanter.com/wine-news/slovenia-a-wine-lovers-guide-517554/ Thu, 23 Nov 2023 07:00:18 +0000 https://www.decanter.com/?p=517554 Vineyards in Brda, Slovenia
Brda region.

Discover Slovenia from stunning landscapes to boutique wineries...

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Vineyards in Brda, Slovenia
Brda region.

Slovenia is host to three main wine regions: Primorska, Posavje and Podravje. Whites predominate and some of the most interesting are made from little-known autochthonous varieties.

You’ll probably arrive through Ljubljana, with its elegant Baroque and Vienna Secession architecture, and hilltop castle overlooking the Ljubljanica river. From here, Slovenia’s top destinations lie west. There’s Triglav National Park with its rugged snow-capped peaks, the superbly photogenic Lake Bled, and the Soča Valley, carved out by the emerald-green Soča river. South from here lie the hills of Goriška Brda planted with vineyards (more about this later), then Kras (a geographic area formed of water-soluble carbonate rocks), and a glorious strip of Adriatic coast, home to the lovely Venetian-era towns of Koper and Piran.

Any first-time visitor would do well to spend a couple of days in Ljubljana and Triglav National Park before descending to Primorska to explore the sub-regions of Goriška Brda and the Vipava Valley, where stunning landscapes and numerous boutique wineries await. Each vintner has a special story to tell – many are experimenting with sparkling wines, orange wines and biodynamic production, and using terracotta amphorae and concrete eggs for ageing their wines.

Primorska

Primorska or the Slovenian Littoral, backing the Adriatic coast, divides into four sub-regions: Goriška Brda, Vipava Valley (Vipavska Dolina), Kras and Slovenian Istria (Slovenska Istra). Culturally Primorska has close ties with neighbouring Italy – sitting between the Adriatic and the Alps, it enjoys a sub-Mediterranean climate.

Goriška Brda

Medot winery, Slovenia

Medot winery. Credit: Matic Grmek

The hills of Goriška Brda conceal dozens of sleepy rural villages – medieval-walled Šmartno, a huddle of stone cottages centring on a Baroque church dedicated to St. Martin, the protector of winemakers – and Dobrovo, with its white 17th-century Renaissance castle of four towers, are the biggest. Green and lush, Brda’s hills are planted primarily with vineyards, as well as olive groves, cherry orchards and clusters of elegant cypresses, while the valleys are traversed by rivers and streams. On a clear day, you might see the snow-capped Julian Alps to the north and the sparkling blue Gulf of Trieste to the south.

Some 140 winemakers live here, producing 70% white and 30% red, organic and harvested by hand. They’re especially proud of the indigenous Rebula (or Ribolla Gialla as it is known in neighbouring  Italy), known since the 13th century and Brda’s flysch soil gives it full flavour and minerality. It’s very resilient (with roots up to 12 metres long)  and versatile, making everything from dry sparkling to dessert wine. Many wineries are open for tours and tasting. You really need a car to explore the region, though sporty visitors might attempt by bike.

Klet Brda, in the village of Dobrovo, the heart of Brda, is Slovenia’s major wine producer and importer, producing more than five million bottles annually. It unites 400 local wine growers cultivating vineyards on steep slopes in its circle of family and friends. Wine tastings are available for visitors in the main cellar as well as in the exclusive De Baguer cellar at Dobrovo Castle. For something exceptional, taste the De Baguer Motnik 2017, made from Rebula fermented in barrels smoked using local herbs before harvest. Klet Brda picked up two Gold and seven Silver Medals at the Decanter World Wine Awards (DWWA) 2023.

Also in Dobrovo, Medot was founded by Zvonimir Simčič when he retired from managing Klet Brda. Medot specialises in sparkling wine and Rebula. Try its top seller, fresh fruity Medot Brut 48, a blend of Rebula, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, and its elegant Medot Extra-Brut Cuvée, made from Chardonnay and Rebula.

In Višnjevik, Erzetič uses amphorae and also experiments with different types of wood. The Orbis Rebula 2018, aged in barrels of oak, mulberry, wild cherry, ash, and acacia was awarded a Gold Medal at DWWA 2022.

High up in north Brda, at the foot of the Soča Valley, newly-built Ferdinand commands sweeping views down onto steep terraced vineyards. Its Sinefinis Rebolium 2017, made in collaboration with Collio producer Gradis’ciutta, is made from Rebula. Some of the grapes come from Slovenia and some from Italy to create ‘a wine without borders’.

Ferdinand winery tasting room, Slovenia

Ferdinand winery tasting room

Moving south to Ceglo, Marjan Simčič does all sorts of wonderful things with Rebula, as well as international varieties. Try his sweet Leonardo 2017, made from dried Rebula grapes before being aged in oak for four to five years.

At neighbouring Movia, Aleš Kristančič is a pioneer of natural wine. Don’t miss the chance to visit the Kristančič home to try sparkling Movia Puro, made from Chardonnay. Opening the bottle is an event in itself as it is only rid of its lees upon serving. After being stored upside down for 24 hours, the bottle is disgorged in a large glass bowl of cold water by a sommelier – so you can see the whole process – and then the wine is poured into Movia crystal glasses for guests to enjoy.

Other producers worth noting include Dolfo of Ceglo for Brut Nature fizzes, Zanut of Neblo, Ščurek in Plešivo and Edi Simčič, which has a contemporary tasting room filled with artwork in the village of Vipolže.

Marjan Simčič wines in box

Vipava Valley

East of Goriška Brda, the Vipava Valley is home to small family wineries working with native varieties Pinela and Zelen, which do well on the region’s flysch soil. Historically, producers in this area supplied wines to Vienna.

In Slap, head to Marc winery to taste its fresh and delicate Pinela 2021. The 2019 vintage of the same wine won a Platinum at DWWA 2020.

Near Planina, modern winery Guerila overlooks an amphitheatre-shaped vineyard devoted to biodynamic wines. Taste the Guerila Zelen 2022, or Guerila Amfora 2020, made from the Rebula grape.

In Osek, Lepa Vida hosts tastings which tell amusing anecdotes based on the history of the region. The Zelen 2022 is herbal and spicy, while the ‘O’ 2021 is an orange wine made from Malvasia Istriana and a small amount of Rebula, with the skins in contact with the juice during fermentation.

Kras

Kras is famed for its caves – each year, tens of thousands of visitors enter the labyrinthine depths of Postojna and Škocjan, to admire vast underground halls and tunnels graced by stalactites and stalagmites.

Up above ground, the red soils of Kras are rich in iron and best known for red wine made using the Teran grape – try it at Vinakras Sežana in a vaulted stone cellar in Sežana. Its La Marie Teran 2018 won a Silver Medal at DWWA 2023.

Slovenian Istria

The sun-warmed flysch soils near the sea also produce good reds. From Vinakoper in the portal city of Koper, the red Capris Refošk 2020 won a Silver at DWWA 2023. The producer also makes Vinakoper Spa body treatment products from grape seeds. Nearby in Triban village, at MonteMoro, try orange wine Malvazija aMorus.

Podravje

In northeast Slovenia, Podravje produces almost half of all Slovenian wine. In Maribor, the 400-year-old Žametovka vine at the Old Vine House, – listed in the Guinness Book of Records as the ‘oldest vine’– is a must-see for wine lovers. Nearby, tour the 2.2km tunnels in the vast Vinag cellars.

In neighbouring Ptuj, Ptujska Klet produces one million litres annually. Founded by Franciscan monks in 1239, it’s Slovenia’s oldest winery. Its aromatic Pullus Sauvignon won a Gold Medal at DWWA 2023.

Northeast, in Mačkovci, Marof produces the esteemed organic Marof Bodonci Sauvignon Blanc, aged on fine lees for 35 months in 2,500 litre oak barrels.

Posavje

In southeast Slovenia, the Sava Valley runs east towards Croatia. Posavje can be divided into the sub-regions of Dolenjska, Bizeljsko Sremič and Bela Krajina. It is known for Cviček, a curious sour wine made from a mix of reds and whites, but there’s more to Posavje than this.

Near Metlika in Bela Krajina, visit Šuklje to try the summery white Lozice (made from single-vineyard Sauvignon Blanc) and flagship red Vrbanjka (made from single-vineyard Blaufränkisch matured in second fill French oak). For sparkling wines, Istenič in Bizeljsko won a Gold Medal at DWWA 2022 with its Prestige Extra Brut 2013, while near Tržišče in Dolenjska, Domaine Slapšak’s Penina range is also worth attention.


Ljubljana Castle

Ljubljana Castle. Credit Andrej Tarfila

My perfect weekend in Ljubljana

Book in at the elegant Grand Hotel Union Eurostars on Miklošičeva Street, near the Triple Bridge.

Friday

If you’re here from May to October, check out Friday’s Open Kitchen street food fair, on the Central Market near the Triple Bridge, with several stalls representing Slovenian wineries. If it’s winter, toast your arrival with a glass of sparkling wine at Vinoteka Movia (run by the wine producer).

Evening

Ride the funicular up to Ljubljana Castle to dine at Strelec (‘archer’) in the 15th-century Archer’s Tower. Opt for the tasting menu with wine pairing.

Saturday

Morning

Take a private guided city tour, to discover the Unesco-listed works of architect Jože Plečnik, including the Triple Bridge, the covered market and Križanke summer theatre.

Afternoon

Stroll up to Ljubljana Castle, set in parkland with tree-lined avenues. On its southern slopes, the castle vineyard grows 1,050 vines, made up of roughly half white (Belpin) and half red (Rdečegrajc). Have lunch at the wine bar in the castle, then head to Tivoli Park to the National Museum of Contemporary History, tracing Slovenia’s past from 1914 up to the present.

Evening

Dine at JB on Miklošičeva Street, then head to Šuklje’s (owned by the wine producer) wine bar for a riverside nightcap.

Sunday

Morning

Drive out of town to the verdant Vipava Valley, one of Slovenia’s loveliest wine regions.

Afternoon

Have lunch at Faladur in Vipava, then visit local wineries Marc, Guerila and Lepa Vida.

Return to Ljubljana for your homeward flight.


Your Slovenia address book

Restaurants

Strelec

Michelin-star fine dining at Ljubljana Castle, with delicacies such as truffles, foie gras and venison.

JB Restaurant

In a building designed by architect Jože Plečnik, chef Janez Bratovž creates elegant dishes highlighting the natural flavours of local ingredients.

Hiša Marica

In Šmartno, in Goriška Brda, enjoy local seasonal specialities, along with the owner’s wines and home-cured pršut (prosciutto).

Faladur

Family-run eatery serving authentic local fair in Vipava and running Vipava Valley wine tastings.

Hiša Franko

In Kobarid in the Soča Valley, cult restaurant Hiša Franko has three Michelin stars and a Green Michelin, plus ten guest rooms.

Accommodation

Grand Hotel Union Eurostars

Big prestigious hotel dating from 1905, near Ljubljana’s Triple Bridge.

Kabaj 

In Šlovrenc in Goriška Brda, this welcoming winery has six cosy rooms, and an excellent restaurant serving its own organic wines – try the superb red Cuvée Morel aged seven years in oak.

Hotel Gredič 

In Ceglo in Goriška Brda, 17th-century Gredič has seven rooms, a fine-dining restaurant and a spectacular wine cellar.

Aldila

Five cosy double rooms in a lovely renovated building in medieval Šmartno in Goriška Brda.

Guerila

This biodynamic winery has three modern self-catering apartments overlooking hillside vineyards in the Vipava Valley.

Wine shops and bars

Vinoteka Movia

Small cosy wine bar below Ljubljana Castle, stocking Movia wines from Goriška Brda along with other outstanding offerings.

Šuklje

Riverside wine bar near Ljubljana’s Triple Bridge. Wine flights and selections by the glass, including the owners’ wines from Bela Krajina, along with platters of Slovenian charcuterie and French cheeses.

Grajska vinoteka

In a vaulted brick space inside Ljubljana Castle, come here for quality Slovenian wines plus snacks.


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Give the gift of wine experiences this holiday season https://www.decanter.com/wine/wine-regions/california-wine-region/give-the-gift-of-wine-experiences-this-holiday-season-515153/ Thu, 23 Nov 2023 07:00:00 +0000 https://www.decanter.com/?p=515153 Wine being poured for a wine tasting experience
Tasting at Wheeler Farms.

Inspiration for the perfect gift...

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Wine being poured for a wine tasting experience
Tasting at Wheeler Farms.

Wine tasting experiences can offer a range of opportunities, from the basics of wine education to exploring the vineyards and cellars of favourite producers. Below, you’ll find an array of tasting options that might make the perfect gift.

Educational tastings

An introduction to wine tasting: Unlocking the Secrets of Wine with Joseph Phelps

Wine tasting can be confounding and intimidating to the uninitiated, with its technical jargon and opaque traditions. But the new Unlocking the Secrets of Wine experience at Joseph Phelps aims to demystify wine’s most perplexing questions through a unique tasting experience – think of it as a way to fast-track your wine education. Attendees will learn what common wine terms mean, the proper way to store and serve wine, the elements of food pairing and more while tasting through Joseph Phelps’ Napa and Sonoma offerings. Guests should plan for 90 minutes for the experience ($150 per person) and are advised to book well in advance as the experience only runs on certain days of the week.

Off-road in the Finger Lakes: UTV tasting at Heart and Hands

The Finger Lakes is an often-overlooked region for exceptional wines, but the world is catching on to the many gems it offers. One unique way to explore the region is the Utility Task Vehicle (UTV) Tour & Tasting with Heart and Hands Wine Company. Co-founder Susan Higgins will take up to four guests on a bumpy UTV tour of her limestone-laden vineyard and explain the winery’s viticultural practices. Following the in-depth tour, guests will go through a tasting of six wines paired perfectly with six matching small bites. The tour costs $65 per person and lasts 90 minutes.

Guests hiking through the Knudsen vineyards

Hiking among the vines at Knudsen Vineyards. Credit: John Valls

Hike among the vines

A weekend-only tasting event at pioneering Willamette Valley producer Knudsen Vineyards offers guests a unique outdoor experience. Picture exploring the vineyards and then tasting the wines from those historic blocks over a picnic-style lunch. The Knudsens were among the first families in the Willamette to plant Pinot Noir in Oregon’s Dundee Hills. Guests will walk among the old vine blocks, taking in 50 years of wine-growing history, and then taste wines from the vineyard parcels they visited before a hearty lunch at the estate. The hikes go ahead rain or shine, so appropriate footwear is recommended for this two-and-a-half to three hour experience, which costs $95 per guest.

Creating a unique wine

Iconic Washington State winery DeLille Cellars offers guests an opportunity to make their own unique blends based on some of the winery’s most prized lots. DeLille makes some of Washington’s most sought-after wines from vineyards on Red Mountain and in the Yakima Valley, including historic old-vine sites. Guests will be treated to a blending seminar from one of DeLille’s team before creating their own blends. The cost is $145 per guest.

Wine and food experiences

In pursuit of the finer things: Three Sticks caviar experience

The stellar wines of Three Sticks need no accompaniment, but everything is better with caviar. The Caviar Experience at Three Sticks is offered seasonally, from October to January. The tasting is held in partnership with San Francisco’s The Caviar Company, whose different varieties of caviar are paired with single-vineyard wines to showcase how one enhances the other. For $150 per club member and $175 per non-club member, this luxurious culinary experience is a well-priced gift for anyone on your nice list.

Creative pairings

For adventurous foodies, Sequoia Grove in Napa Valley’s Rutherford appellation offers a tasty way to explore the versatility of Cabernet Sauvignon. Sequoia Grove was a pioneering Cabernet house, established in 1979, and has since established unique programming, including a famed ampelography class for those who want to level up their wine knowledge and the A Taste for Cabernet Experience.

The gastronomic experience eschews predictable, classic pairings like steak with Cabernet for more offbeat options. Sequoia Grove’s single-vineyard and reserve wines accompany chef Britny Maureze’s multi-course menu, with culinary creativity that will open guests’ eyes to new approaches. The 90-minute experience costs $150 for non-wine-club members and $100 for members.

Vegetables growning in Wheeler Farms' kitchen garden.

The culinary gardens at Wheeler Farms. Credit: Sara Anne Risk

A three-course culinary lesson

Wheeler Farms, owned by Napa Valley’s famed Araujo family, offers a perfect gift for your favourite foodie. An acclaimed wine brand in its own right, Wheeler Farms is also home to chickens, an apiary, a large garden and fruit trees, all of which are included in their culinary programme, a homage to the agricultural history of the valley.

The Estate Tasting and Cooking Demonstration begins with a tour of the expansive gardens and the winery itself, followed by an up-close cooking demonstration with chef Tom Harder doing what he does best at the kitchen table. The four-course lunch and cooking demonstration is paired with Wheeler Farms wines, including Sauvignon Blanc, rosé and a number of unique Cabernet expressions. The experience lasts three hours and costs $350 per person for two-person parties, including a gift from the kitchen.


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City guide to Rome https://www.decanter.com/wine/city-guide-to-rome-515496/ Mon, 20 Nov 2023 08:00:13 +0000 https://www.decanter.com/?p=515496 Rome’s Ponte Sant’Angelo Roman bridge with St Peter’s Basilica, Vatican City, beyond
Rome’s Ponte Sant’Angelo Roman bridge with St Peter’s Basilica, Vatican City, beyond.

A capital city full of history, wherever you look...

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Rome’s Ponte Sant’Angelo Roman bridge with St Peter’s Basilica, Vatican City, beyond
Rome’s Ponte Sant’Angelo Roman bridge with St Peter’s Basilica, Vatican City, beyond.

Quite understandably, the people of Rome take a visceral pride in their city – its history and wealth of attractions are unparalleled. Vast monuments, columns and other relics from ancient times are everywhere, sometimes even incorporated into Renaissance architecture. The river Tiber is a noble presence, dividing the main centre from districts such as lively Trastevere and the Vatican.

Where to stay

There’s a gentlemen’s club atmosphere at Hotel de’ Ricci, a wine lover’s paradise with in-room wine coolers and huge reproduction wine labels on the walls. Tasting dinners, producer evenings and private tastings are organised.

Where to eat

Rome’s hearty and flavoursome typical cuisine dominates menus at restaurants and informal trattorias throughout the centre. Favourite pasta dishes include cacio e pepe, carbonara and amatriciana; there are many offal-based dishes and vegetable specialities such as fried artichokes and sautéed chicory, too. Near Piazza di Spagna, try them at family-run Matricianella which also serves lamb in various ways and offers an extensive and informative wine list. SoraLella, a local institution on Isola Tiberina island, is especially famed for its coda alla vaccinara (oxtail).

Where to drink

If Rome’s concentration of culture gets overwhelming, take refuge at one of the city’s many wine bars. At Vineria Trapizzino in the colourful Trastevere district only the region’s wines, including a wide choice of Cesanese reds, are served. Although it’s rare to find wine lists such as this, dedicated exclusively to Lazio wines, there are always a few. Il Goccetto also offers olive oil tasting, speciality charcuterie and cheeses and pieces of pie in an old-style interior with wooden tables and bar stools. In the popular Monti neighbourhood, historic Ai Tre Scalini has a lively vibe, an ever-changing selection of wines by the glass and snacks such as coppiette (spicy cured pork strips) or meatballs in tomato sauce.

Places to visit

When visiting Rome’s Palatine Hill, don’t miss the walled Vigna Barberini. Nine rows of indigenous white grape variety Bellone grow among fruit trees, olives and ancient remains where Renaissance aristocrats once grew grapes and produce (see: colosseo.it). The vines are tended by the admirably run cooperative Cincinnato based at Cori, a charming historic hill town south of the city. Its own Bellone makes a moreish herb-fresh sip; try, too, the juicy red local variety Nero Buono di Cori.

Nearer Rome, the Castelli Romani area has drawn city dwellers for centuries for its lakes and villages with colourful taverns serving tasty specialities, such as porchetta (rolled pork loin). Here in the hills around Frascati city there’s been a move towards the less productive but more characterful Malvasia Puntinata variety in place of the previously popular Malvasia di Candia for Frascati Superiore DOCG. At his Villa Simone, consultant winemaker Lorenzo Costantini makes some memorable versions.

The widespread Roma DOC area that surrounds the city makes for a great variety of wines and a wide choice of out-of-town wineries to visit. One is the small, family-run Terre del Veio winery within Parco di Veio, a protected area with Etruscan remains north of Rome. Natural tuff caves make ideal ageing cellars and tastings of wines – such as the Roma DOC Malvasia Puntinata – under the pergola are memorable occasions. At 13th-century Castello di Torre in Pietra west of the city, the entire wine cellar, along with an atmospheric restaurant, has been built into a hill of volcanic tuff. Its Roma DOC Rosso incorporates a different variety each year added to Sangiovese and the required 50% Montepulciano, which is known locally as Violone.

The region’s star red grape is the fruity and tannic Cesanese. The variety (or rather two: Cesanese Comune and Cesanese di Affile) is most at home east of Rome around the villages of Piglio, Affile and Olevano Romano.


Ciambelline al vino on a plate

Insider tip

Traditional ciambelline al vino (biscuits made with wine) are delicious, especially dipped in wine. Order at the end of a meal or buy some at the historic Forno Campo dei Fiori bakery.


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City guide to Turin https://www.decanter.com/wine/city-guide-to-turin-515474/ Mon, 13 Nov 2023 07:00:01 +0000 https://www.decanter.com/?p=515474 The Mole Antonelliana spire rising above the Po and the Ponte Vittorio Emanuele I in Turin
The Mole Antonelliana spire
rising above the Po and the
Ponte Vittorio Emanuele I.

The first unified capital of Italy...

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The Mole Antonelliana spire rising above the Po and the Ponte Vittorio Emanuele I in Turin
The Mole Antonelliana spire rising above the Po and the Ponte Vittorio Emanuele I.

Unified Italy’s first capital and the historical home of the Savoy dynasty, Turin is one of the country’s most beautiful cities. There’s an air of understated refinement throughout its wide avenues and elegant piazzas surrounded by Baroque palazzi and historic cafes. The Valentino park stretches alongside the river Po, a majestic presence flowing through the centre, while the Mole Antonelliana building with its landmark spire hosts an exceptional cinema museum.

Where to stay

Connect with Turin’s innate style with a stay at Palazzo del Carretto. The beautiful, spacious interiors feature original 17th-century decoration enhanced by occasional contemporary art and design elements. Rooms have coffee machines, apartments have kitchens and there’s private parking.

Where to eat

Among Turin’s favourite winter-warmer dishes are Barolo or Barbera-braised beef and bagna cauda – a hot sauce of garlic, anchovies and olive oil, for dipping raw vegetables. They’re best enjoyed at neighbourhood trattorias of modest city districts such as Porta Palazzo, home to a vast daily market, and San Salvario where Scannabue is popular for its delicious cuisine and attractive dark green-themed decor. Classic dishes include agnolotti (meat-filled pasta), there’s homemade gelato and an intriguing selection of more than 800 wines.

On the eastern side of the river Po, the charming Borgo Po district stretches up the hill with inviting options such as Trattoria Decoratori e Imbianchini, hosted in the appealing house and garden of the historic guild of painters and decorators and serving tasty traditional dishes including much-loved vitello tonnato (veal in tuna sauce) with Piedmont wines.

Back over the river in the city centre, opposite Palazzo Carignano, Italy’s first parliament, one-star Michelin Ristorante Del Cambio dates from the mid-18th century; Italy’s first prime minister Cavour was a regular. Visit the atmospheric wine cellar and opt for the historic dining room or exclusive chef’s table.

Where to drink

Turin is wonderfully well-off for wine bars, and thanks to the Piedmont region’s 19 DOCG, 41 DOC wines and some 30 native grape varieties in all, it can draw on a supply of local wines that’s hard to match for quality and diversity. Piedmont wines are celebrated each autumn with multiple events within the Vendemmia a Torino – Grapes in Town festival held across some of the city’s loveliest locations.

Alta Langa DOCG traditional-method sparklers open most wine lists and while these are Pinot Nero and/or Chardonnay, lesser-known local varieties are ever-more popular. Fresh white wines such as Nascetta, Favorita and Erbaluce are holding their own among well-established Arneis and Cortese, while youthful, fruity reds such as Grignolino, Freisa and Pelaverga are gaining popularity alongside classic Barolo, Barbaresco and other versions of Nebbiolo.

The Rossorubino wine bar-store, run by the Gazzera brothers, stocks a pretty exhaustive range. It’s extremely active with tastings and events, 15 or more wines are available by the glass and there’s a lunchtime menu. Only Piedmont wines are served, many sourced direct from small producers, at relaxed Caffé-Vini Emilio Ranzini (@caffeviniemilioranzini), where the simple, old-style decor is unchanged since the owners’ grandfather’s day. Snacks include platters, fritters and meatballs.

Places to visit

Crossing the river via the Vittorio Emanuele I bridge, the views over the city from the stately 17th-century Villa della Regina are magnificent. One of Turin’s 22 Savoy residences, it was built to the ancient Roman model and Filippo Juvarra contributed to the lavish interior renovation. After 150 years of abandonment, the villa’s Vigna della Regina plot of Freisa vines was restored in the early 2000s by the Balbiano family, whose winery is further out from the city, at Andezeno near Chieri. Since early 2023, vineyard management has passed to the owner of Ristorante Del Cambio and Orsolina28, a winery in Monferrato, east of Turin, that hosts dance retreats and gardening therapy experiences. ‘We will certainly be making a dedicated wine with Vigna della Regina grapes,’ says agronomist Umberto Bonifacino, ‘and we plan to offer vineyard experiences, to share the incredible patrimony of which we’re lucky enough to be custodians.’


A bottle of Cocchi vermouth

Insider tip

Sip a vermouth in the city where the aromatised wine was first created in the 18th century. Even better, sip three, paired with a selection of bites, as part of the city’s Extra Vermouth experience, at atmospheric Caffè Elena.


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Zürich: A wine lover’s guide https://www.decanter.com/wine/zurich-a-wine-lovers-guide-515760/ Thu, 09 Nov 2023 07:00:28 +0000 https://www.decanter.com/?p=515760 View of Zürich skyline

Five top wine-focused destinations in Zürich...

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View of Zürich skyline

Zürich is a wine-obsessed city with an innovative approach to production and consumption. On its eponymous lake, experiments in maturation take place within specially designed buoys, while the medieval guild house-turned-restaurant Zunfthaus zur Waag has an outdoor fountain that spurts wine (sadly, mostly reserved for weddings).

On Lake Zürich’s sunnier side, the hills are braided with vines – including Blauburgunder (Pinot Noir) and Räuschling – but only a fraction of wine is exported. It’s the same story for the rest of Switzerland, with only top winemakers such as Domaine Donatsch, Studach, and Gantenbein having some bottles escaping to cellars beyond the sky-scraping Alps. The Swiss love their wines and so will you (especially if you’re partial to Pinot Noir).

While Switzerland’s largest city is best known for its financial centre, it’s also a cosmopolitan metropolis with areas — such as Langstrasse and Europaallee — that recall hipster pockets of Berlin or Stockholm. Whether you’re intent on exploring the city’s best cellars in its cobblestoned Old Town or popping into a natural wine boutique while wandering the art deco streets, Zürich has you covered.

Five top spots for wine lovers

The library at B2 Hotel in Zürich

The library at B2 Hotel. Credit: Clara Tuma / © B2 Hotel Zürich

Wystube Isebähnli

The heart of Zürich hospitality resides in the Wystube Isebähnli — a creaking wood-clad corridor of a restaurant on the edge of the Old Town. In 2008, this 200-year-old former wine bar was taken over by Yücel Ersan, who has established it as a destination for the in-the-know gourmand. Its stainless-steel mousehole of a kitchen plays host to guest chefs serving up frequently changing tasting menus. And while the French-inflected cuisine is exquisite, it’s the wine list — spread across several 800-year-old cellars in the vicinity — that is Yücel and his sommelier sister Ebru’s true passion. At the restaurant, you’ll be given a list that’s short and to the point, offering wines from their collection that are at their absolute peak. If you’d like to explore deeper, ask for the full wine list in advance. Isebähnli has a focus on rarities with vintage depth from Bordeaux (1910-2020), Burgundy (1959-2021), Piedmont (1990-2018), Tuscany (1982-2020), Rioja & Ribera del Duero (1954-2019) and California (1994-2018). As the pair knows most of the Swiss winemakers personally, this is also the place to dive deep into the national wine scene.

Carlton Restaurant

Down a quiet lane off the shopping mecca of the Bahnhofstrasse, the Carlton inhabits the lower levels of a revamped Belle Epoque hotel. Its Art Deco interior is the ideal setting for monthly Gatsby parties that run late into the night and take advantage of its superb cuisine and 900-strong list. With a focus on Swiss and French (particularly Bordeaux) producers, you’ll find tantalising selections from Domaine Romanée-Conti as well as New World treasures such as Californian cult winery Sine Qua Non, among many others. On the à la carte, crowd pleasers such as Wiener schnitzel and beef wellington dominate, while chef Philipp Heering’s creativity is expressed in dishes such as the tangy and sweet strawberry gazpacho with basil and chilli, or the sea bass with salted lemon and avocado. For the full Heering, opt for Carlton’s five-course tasting menu with wine pairings (225 CHF per person).

Gamper Bar

The Gamper Bar’s tall windows and red leather banquettes upholster a corner of the trendy Langstrasse area with a hint of Spain thrown in. The bar is attached to a restaurant of the same name and this popular pairing is the brainchild of owner and chef Marius Frehner, formerly of three-Michelin-star El Celler de Can Roca. His staunchly sustainable outlook has created a 100-strong wine selection heavily weighted towards organic and natural wine from Europe. It also features a Champagne list, ideal for cutting through the richness of small plates such as oysters or burrata with smoky lardo and caramelised fennel seeds. However, should you wish for something more substantial, you can try for a table next door and discover Frehner’s ‘Surprise Menu’ of vegetable-forward courses.

Landolt Winery

The Landolt ancestor who began making wine in the early 1800s, so the story goes, had been preparing for a life of the cloth. When he discovered how profitable wine could be, he ditched theology and built up what would become the largest wine-grower in the city. Using six of Zürich’s 13 available urban hectares, the winery is best known for its Schiterberger Himmelsleiterli Pinot Noir grown on its original terroir – the steepest hill in the Zürich canton. The Landolt Weine Vinotheque showcases its 30-strong range, which includes popular Swiss white Räuschling, as well as wine produced through the unusual Austrian technique of Gemischter Satz (traditional field blend). If you’d like to see the vines after a tasting, it’s fifteen minutes on foot from the shop to the closest Riesling plantings. Alternatively, book in for one of Landolt’s five-hour guided wine hikes through the city (129 CHF per person).

Hotel B2

With its tell-tale chimney marking it out beside Google’s Zürich HQ, Hotel B2 inhabits the industrial shell of what was once one of the largest breweries in Zürich. Today, however, the focus has switched to wine thanks to the family of oenophiles that bought it in 2012. This is why the hotel’s centrepiece, like a sophisticated student fantasy, is its 20-shelf-high wine library containing 33,000 books (not all about wine, unfortunately). The wine list – more focused than the bookshelves – is curated by local wine hero and TV personality Beat Caduff, with everything sourced from within a 250km radius. Plenty of Italian and German wines make an appearance while travelling the least distance is a selection of Swiss winemaker Erich Meier’s 2021 Pinot Noirs. Rarities, predominantly Burgundian and Piedmontese, are enticingly displayed in a glass cabinet. Adjoining the hotel is a sizeable spa with a rooftop pool (half-price entrance for hotel guests), while in the stylish suites you’ll find a copy of wine journal Schweizerische Weinzeitung.

Things to do

Vineyard scene looking towards the city of Zürich.

Vineyard scene looking towards the city. Credit: Rafael Wiedenmeier / iStock / Getty Images Plus

If you’re an outdoorsy person, Zürich’s charms are instantly decipherable. Lace up your hiking boots and walk the forested pathways of the Uetliberg or seek solace from the summer heat in the limpid waters of Lake Zürich and its many lidos.

A lively burst of food-focused festivals is on offer (check dates before travel). Food Zürich has its hub of food stalls, bars and cooking demos located in trendy Europaallee. Accompanying this is an itinerary of both paid and free activities that in the past have included things such as multi-day sourdough workshops and free drop-in wine tastings.

Back at the lake, wine festival Expovina sees an armada of boats host walk-on wine tastings, with workshops held throughout the city.

How to get there

Zürich Airport is half an hour by public transport from the city centre. You can access 160 weekly flights from the UK to Zürich through Swiss Air. Upon arrival, purchase a Zürich Card and benefit from unlimited second-class travel on all public transport across the city as well as a host of other benefits.


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Sardinia for wine lovers https://www.decanter.com/wine-travel/sardinia-for-wine-lovers-513503/ Mon, 06 Nov 2023 07:00:09 +0000 https://www.decanter.com/?p=513503 Sunset at Bastioni di Remy, Cagliari, Sardinia
Bastioni di San Remy, Cagliari.

There's plenty to enjoy on Italy's second-largest island...

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Sunset at Bastioni di Remy, Cagliari, Sardinia
Bastioni di San Remy, Cagliari.

Despite the Mediterranean glitz and glamour of Sardinia’s upmarket resorts, the island offers a rustic charm that still holds it apart from Italy’s more typical tourist destinations.

Located approximately 240km off the mainland, the fervently autonomous region remains a haven for dreamy, unspoiled coastline, picturesque countryside, and authentic gastronomic experiences. As if hidden in plain sight, Sardinia possesses a timeless agricultural quality, perfectly suited to immersing oneself in the local food and wine traditions.

Over the centuries, the island – almost three times the size of neighbouring Corsica, and only just smaller than Sicily – has beckoned countless conquerors to its shores. The constant changing of the guard on this strategically important island has left behind layers of cultural influence that are woven into every aspect of island life. Various civilisations, including the Phoenicians, Romans, Vandals, Byzantines and – more recently – the Italians, have all left their mark, shaping without ever defining this rugged land. The culmination of this rich heritage has given rise to a unique ‘Sardo’ identity.

In many ways, Sardinia is the ideal retreat, whether for a few days or a few weeks. Beaches stretch for miles, lapped by idyllic turquoise waters; inland, rolling hills of lush forests, olive groves and vineyards thrive amidst limestone cliffs, deep canyons and hidden caves. The iconic nuraghi – ancient stone towers dating back to the Bronze Age – punctuate the landscape and evoke Sardinia’s mysterious ancient heritage. Volcanic formations, like the Gennargentu Massif, provide a dramatic backdrop for hikers and nature enthusiasts, offering panoramic vistas of a land steeped in natural beauty. And then there’s the wine.

While it doesn’t boast the commercial history and kudos of other Italian regions, Sardinia’s wine industry continues to evolve impressively. Today, it is made up of a handful of large winery brands and co-operative cellars, and hundreds of small- and medium-sized producers. Two key grape varieties dominate: the fresh and fragrant white Vermentino, and the full-blooded red, Cannonau, known elsewhere as Grenache.

In recent years there has been a surge in both consumer and producer interest in rare grapes, meaning there’s now a growing number of low-volume wines made from the likes of Nuragus, Nasco, Torbato, Monica and Carignano, all of which are strengthening Sardinian wine culture.


My perfect day in Sardinia

Piazza-Yenne-Cagliari

Piazza Yenne is a great place to start your day. Credit: Fabiano Caddeo / REDA&CO / Universal Images Group via Getty Images

Morning

Wake up early in the centre of Cagliari and go for a morning run along the marina before stopping for coffee, eggs and pastries with a leisurely flick through Gazzetta dello Sport. After taking it easy for a while in and around Piazza Yenne, stroll through the city’s Castello district, admiring the area’s history and architecture – there’s so much cultural detail here, particularly around the cathedral and bell tower. Lunch may not be far away but there’s probably room for a slice of ‘Sarda’ pizza al taglio.

Afternoon

A quick taxi out to Pula, just south of the city, and a table for two at Fradis Minoris overlooking the Nora lagoon. Surrounded by green aromatic shrubs and cool blue waters, this is a stunning place to gorge on expertly prepared seafood, washed down of course with a few glasses of chilled Vermentino. Chef Francesco Stara focuses on completely ‘circular’ cuisine in this protected marine area, and has been awarded a green Michelin star. After lunch, be sure to spend some time bird watching.

Evening

Back in the city, Cagliari’s football stadium is fairly central. If there’s an evening game on it’s always a lively atmosphere under the lights, and fierce island character can be heard in the stands. Otherwise, fully refreshed from an afternoon snooze, enjoy the atmosphere of the local wine bars. Sparkling Torbato, if you can find it, is an unpretentious start to the night, before heading off for dinner at Josto – the spaghetti alla bottarga and lamb from the interior of the island is recommended, perhaps paired with a bottle of old-vine Carignano.

With the comforts of hotel Casa Clàt (see below) within staggering distance, there’s an argument for closing the night down with one final Sardinian treasure: a glass of old, nutty Malvasia di Bosa. It’ll be fine. You can run it off!


In and around Cagliari

Many rare varieties can be tasted while out and about in the island’s cultural and economic capital, the historic and vibrant city of Cagliari. It’s a sensible staging point given the proximity of the local airport to the city, and Cagliari offers a diverse drinking and dining scene. Walk the promenade and take in the busy harbour before stopping in at one of the many coffee shops, wine bars and casual eateries.

Far too many transit through and miss out on this animated urban hub, but it’s worth the hustle and bustle. Stop in at Cucina.eat for a casual lunch of local appetisers and cheeses with a huge selection of wines by the glass and bottle. Be sure to grab an aperitivo in Piazza Yenne and absorb the city’s beautiful architecture and pastel hues during the golden hour, perhaps before dining formally at Dal Corsaro or Josto.

Wineries have generally embraced tourism and many now open their cellars and tasting rooms to visitors. Nevertheless, it is still best to contact them in advance. Most are small businesses with international commitments and don’t always employ full-time hospitality support.

Within easy driving distance of Cagliari is Cantina Argiolas, an accessible brand that looms large on the island. Its portfolio of wines covers practically every variety and style, and includes ‘Turriga’, one of Sardinia’s most recognised fine wines.

On a smaller scale, Antonella Corda’s winemaking project is gaining notoriety for fresh, perfumed wines, as is Elisabetta Pala with her Mora & Memo winery, located in nearby Serdiana. The large Santadi cooperative offers good value wines, as does Cantina Pala, a family-run winery with a broad range.

Sulcis and the west

U Tabarka winery, Sulcis

The U-Tabarka winery and vineyards on San Pietro island. Credit: U-Tabarka

Heading further southwest you’ll reach the region of Sulcis, where Carignano is king. The variety is well suited to the hot, dry climate and produces inky-black wines with luscious berry fruit and complex herbal aromas. Some of the vines are pre-phylloxera, having survived for more than a century in sandy soils, and are now capable of producing only small batches of highly concentrated fruit.

These powerful wines are an ideal accompaniment to su porceddu (suckling pig), an island delicacy that sees a young pig wrapped in myrtle or rosemary leaves and placed over a fire pit to cook slowly until tender. There are great tastings of Carignano to be had at Cantina Mesa, but for an extra little adventure, consider a visit to U-Tabarka on the tiny island of San Pietro.

On the west coast is the small town of Oristano, home to the stylistically oxidised Vernaccia di Oristano, one of the forgotten treasures of Italy. Contini – producing wines since 1898 – is a must visit, especially since the inauguration of the new cellar and tasting space in 2022. Sadly, these wines are drifting out of fashion. Made under a layer of flor, not unlike a fino or manzanilla Sherry, they not only age and improve for many years, but they are also highly versatile food wines. There is still an extensive library of back vintages available to buy, and one can’t help but feel you should get them while you still can.

Seafood & Vermentino

In Sardinia, you are never more than 100km from the sea. As such, seafood is a fundamental component of local cuisine. Fresh sea bream and red mullet, as well as tuna, octopus and shellfish are staples of the many coastal restaurants that dot the island.

Perhaps the most iconic seafood dish is bottarga, a delicacy of salted, cured fish roe pouch, typically of the grey mullet or the increasingly prestigious bluefin tuna. Some of the best bottarga is produced in the village of Cabras, just up the road from Oristano, suggestive of a double visit. It also pairs exceptionally well with Vermentino, whose exotic fruit fragrance and mineral character lift and intensify bottarga’s saline nature.

Vermentino may well turn out to be one of the grape varieties of the future, with its seemingly impervious attitude to heat and drought. Its Sardinian heartland will continue to set the benchmark for its quality and style, despite increased plantings as far away as California, Texas, South Africa and Australia.

Northern Sardinia

La-Terrazza-Frades

La Terrazza Frades. Credit: La Terrazza Frades

Arguably, Vermentino finds its best expression, or at least its most distinctive iteration, on the northern end of Sardinia, in the DOCG territory of Gallura. Here, sea breezes cool the fruit after long sunny days, enhancing the aromatic profile of the wines. Many carry the scent of ocean spray and coastal scrub. There are plenty of recommended visits here; look up Petra Bianca, a B&B winery just outside the lively urban centre of Palau, or Tenuta Muscazega.

Northern Sardinia can be reached through smaller airports in Olbia on the east coast, and Alghero on the west, albeit with fewer direct flight options from the UK. If you’re keen on some nouveau glamour and want your evenings a bit livelier, then you might enjoy the coastal retreats of Porto Rotondo or Porto Cervo; the latter is home to a new marina and the Costa Smeralda Yacht Club.

Stroll the Promenade du Port’s art galleries and open air murals, and nearby experience innovative Sardinian cuisine by top chef, Roberto Paddeu at his La Terrazza Frades. The ever-changing menu showcases fresh, locally sourced market produce.

For something a little less touristy, you could hole up in the chic Petra Segreta spa hotel, before heading into the stylish village of San Pantaleo, known for its artists and artisans. Explore the quiet streets and browse the galleries before a spot of people watching in the piazza.

There’s a great aperitif to be had at Caffè Nina before dinner in one of the local trattorias. As an added bonus, we’re only a short drive to the stunning beaches of Marinella, Ira and the Sassi, or the Capichera winery –  one of the leading estates for Vermentino di Gallura.

There’s so much to see in Sardinia, but ultimately its size should dictate your plans. The island’s beauty lies in its diverse landscapes and quiet traditions. Rather than trying to cover vast stretches of road and tick off the sights, this is a place that rewards and celebrates taking it easy. It’s worth ditching the stress and travel, picking one corner of this enchanting land, and soaking up the atmosphere with good food and a bottle or two of the local wines – just like every other civilisation did before.


Your Sardinia address book

Where to stay

Casa Clàt, Cagliari

An eclectic suite hotel with restaurant and lounge bar in the centre of Cagliari.

7 Pines Resort, Baja Sardinia

Stunning views of the Mediterranean and a luxurious and tranquil escape.

Petra Segreta Resort & Spa, San Pantaleo

The only Relais & Chateaux in Sardinia.

Where to eat

Fradis Minoris, Pula

Sustainable concept restaurant overlooking the Nora lagoon.

Sa Nassa, Bosa

Simple, hearty cuisine in Bosa.

Josto, Cagliari

Great city centre spot for quality, contemporary food in a relaxed space.

What to do

Enoteca La Bottega, Santa Teresa di Gallura

A brilliant wine shop and delicatessen.

L’Oro di Cabras, Cabras

A co-operative producing bottarga. Stop in to do some shopping and learn more about the process.

Cucina.eat, Cagliari

A brilliant, atmospheric wine shop, bar and bistro.


How to get there

Airports: Cagliari airport in the south of the island is the largest. Olbia and Alghero are smaller but provide access to the east and west coasts in the north of the island, respectively.

Ferry terminal: Cagliari


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City guide to Florence https://www.decanter.com/wine/city-guide-to-florence-514544/ Thu, 02 Nov 2023 07:00:48 +0000 https://www.decanter.com/?p=514544 View over the city of Florence with four people sitting with backs to the camera

Tuscany’s Renaissance masterpiece...

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View over the city of Florence with four people sitting with backs to the camera

For centuries, Florence has been a magnet for travellers from all over the world – and while most come for its unrivalled Renaissance architecture, few leave without embracing the wine scene. The connection between the two is surprisingly deep-rooted, Tuscan wine producers having financed, built or owned some of the grandest palazzi of the historic centre.

Florence’s stunning 13th-century cathedral, famed for its vast, sweeping dome, is a focal point at the heart of the city and dominates the skyline from a great distance. Still today, the wine used at the most important masses is a sweet vin santo from the Chianti Classico area just south of the city.

Where to stay

Oscar-winning A Room with a View was filmed at the riverside Hotel degli Orafi by Ponte Vecchio bridge. Its spacious rooftop bar is a peaceful oasis, also open to non-guests, and serves intensely fragrant Chianti Classico from the owners’ historic Ormanni winery, where farmhouse accommodation is also available.

Where to eat

Florence has a great many relaxed trattorias serving local specialities such as tasty stews and soups, pasta and steaks. Trattoria Sergio Gozzi, a local lunchtime favourite,
is one of several around the Mercato Centrale. Heading towards the river Arno, on the ground floor of majestic Palazzo Antinori, home to the illustrious winemaking family for more than 600 years, at Cantinetta Antinori wine is the focus. The seasonal restaurant menu offers seafood and Florentine dishes including T-bone steaks, while the wine bar provides tastings and serves platters including charcuterie from Antinori’s own estate-raised speciality breed Cinta Senese pigs. Across the river, on the way to the Piazzale Michelangelo viewpoint, the friendly Enoteca Fuori Porta is also popular for its crostini and pici pasta with wild boar, and especially for its extensive, ever-changing list of wines.

Where to drink

Near Mercato Centrale, old-style Fratelli Zanobini, run by the Zanobini family since 1944, is one of the city’s many wine bar-shops. No food is served and there’s little seating, but it’s perfect for a glass, perhaps of their own Chianti Classico, after visiting the market. Among the many options in the Oltrarno district, just south of the river, Obsequium has about 2,000 wines, roughly half Tuscan reds, both well-known classics and from small-scale wineries. Try a thematic tasting or enjoy a bottle with a platter of Tuscan Pecorino cheeses.

Places to visit

Twenty kilometres south of Florence, the contemporary Antinori nel Chianti Classico winery built into the hills couldn’t be in greater contrast to the monumental city-centre Palazzo Antinori. Still in Chianti Classico, the family also runs the striking Badia a Passignano abbey estate, with its Michelin one-star Osteria, and low-key countryside resort Fonte de’ Medici at the heart of the Tignanello estate where the celebrated SuperTuscan is made.

Despite its fame, the Chianti Classico area between Florence and Siena maintains an authentic, rural charm with quiet villages, rows of vines patchworking the hills, abundant woodland and postcard-pretty stone farmhouses, many of which offer accommodation, tastings or meals. Just south of Greve in Chianti, where Expo Chianti Classico is held in the distinctive triangular piazza each September, one of the loveliest is Il Palagio di Panzano at Panzano. Monia Piccini, who grew up here, runs the winery and agriturismo with her husband Franco who restored the furniture, while Monia’s father renovated the centuries-old stone farmhouse set in a gorgeous panoramic garden. Book to stay or for a lunchtime tasting with food pairings to try characterful Sangiovese Chianti Classico from their 6ha under vine.

Closer to Florence, Fiesole is an easy trip from the city (20 minutes to the northeast by bus). Opposite Fiesole cathedral with its landmark tower, Bibi Graetz’s winery occupies a stylishly converted former hotel. Take a private tour to see where the artist’s old-vine red wines are made and try them along with white Ansonica from his Tuscan islands vineyards.


A wine window built into a palazzo in Florence with a hand holding a glass of red wine being offered

Credit: Silvio Palladino

Insider tip

While in Florence look out for the little wine windows built into Renaissance palazzi. Originally created to sell wine, more than 150 have been restored and some (including at Babae bistrot) are used to serve drinks.


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Decanter’s Dream Destination: Kingsford The Barossa https://www.decanter.com/wine/decanters-dream-destination-kingsford-the-barossa-515062/ Tue, 31 Oct 2023 07:00:20 +0000 https://www.decanter.com/?p=515062 Exterior of Kingsford The Barossa

‘A judicious – and luxurious – blend of old and new,’ says Alicia Miller...

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Exterior of Kingsford The Barossa

Think of Australian wine, and one region probably pops to mind: the Barossa. With its picturesque landscapes of lush vineyards and sun-baked stone farmhouses, this corner of free-settled South Australia isn’t the country’s oldest wine region but – thanks to a worldwide thirst for Aussie Shiraz – it’s definitely the most famous.

Home to respected names like Yalumba and Torbreck, Barossa has developed over the past 180 years from pastureland and bush to oenophile wonderland, with now more than 150 glossy wineries and 80 cellar doors welcoming visitors for tastings.

Built in 1856, Kingsford has been there to witness almost all of this vinous transformation. Originally a private home, today the property sets the gold standard for boutique regional accommodation, fusing history with sublime vintages – providing a real taste of Australia’s favourite wine region.

Heritage & innovation

The outdoor bar area at Kingswood the Barossa

Credit: Adam Bruzzone

When Lincolnshire man Stephen King left Britain in the mid-1800s to settle in South Australia, he couldn’t have known what Barossa was to become. The wealthy pastoralist and entrepreneur built his grand two-storey Georgian-inspired home on his sprawling land outside the settlement of Gawler – drafting in sandstone from Edinburgh for the exterior, a grand Gothic cedar staircase and cellars for storing local produce. For decades set among relatively sleepy landscapes, Kingsford was a watering point for coach parties passing through the region; you could almost consider it the original cellar door.

Fast-forward 167 years and Kingsford is now one of Barossa’s most appealing boutique hotels. Acquired by the locally rooted Ahrens family over a decade ago, it benefitted from a multi-million dollar rethink in 2020. Australian stonemasons crafted a sympathetic expansion, so among the original property’s Georgian elegance there are fresh draws: dedicated wine vaults, multiple bars, expanded accommodation. In the original homestead building, timeless suites in warm neutral hues largely come with chandeliers, Louis XVI-inspired chairs and floral prints. In the new wing, contemporary View Suites with minimalist furnishings feature floor-to-ceiling glass opening up to the Barossa landscape. It’s a judicious – and luxurious – blend of old and new that doesn’t compromise the property’s soul.

Discovering Barossa wine

Two outdoor chairs on the terrace of Kingsford the Barossa overlooking the grounds at sunset

Of course, for any Decanter reader, it will be the vinous programme that makes Kingsford especially appealing. You need only take a look at the newly built wine tunnel – home to a museum collection of Penfolds Grange and a complete line up of Henschke Hill of Grace – to know that it takes Barossa wine seriously.

Much of the liquid joy centres around meals in the main Orleana restaurant, where by-the-glass pours of local treasures meet native yabbies (a freshwater crayfish), Coffin Bay oysters and wagyu beef with a Langmeil Valley Floor Shiraz reduction. Though you can also enjoy tastings in a number of private dining spaces – including the original 1856 slate-floor cellar – or sip on something casually by the pool.

Once you’ve exhausted the vinous options on site, the rest of Barossa is at your disposal for discovery; and you’re really spoilt for choice in terms of proximity and quality. Rockford Wines, with its exceptional Basket Press Shiraz – made from vines aged between 60 and 140-plus years – is just a 20-minute drive away. Only 15 minutes away, historic Seppeltsfield (established just five years before Kingsford was built) has a centennial cellar where you can taste a 100-year-old tawny straight from the barrel. Even the lauded Penfolds is nearby, where in its grand environs you can try making your own wine blend or sample a precious sip of Grange.

Wine imbues every part of the Barossa Valley but make time for the region’s other pleasures and you’ll find the visit even more satisfying. Farmers’ markets bursting with fresh produce; fabulous restaurants like fermentAsian; hot air balloon rides. At Kingsford itself, join an ATV tour across the property’s historic 91ha or hike trails where kangaroos, kookaburras and parrots are spotted. Or just kick back in a ‘bush bath’ – an alfresco soak in a deep claw-footed tub, soundtracked by nature and accompanied by a cheese plate. Now, what would Mr King have thought of that?

For further information see Kingsford The Barossa


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Sonoma travel guide: The perfect three-day itinerary https://www.decanter.com/wine-travel/sonoma-travel-guide-the-perfect-three-day-itinerary-463075/ Fri, 27 Oct 2023 07:30:26 +0000 https://www.decanter.com/?p=463075 The Vertical Panorama Pavilion tasting suite at Donum Estate
The Vertical Panorama Pavilion at Donum Estate.

Insider tips for where to go and what to do...

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The Vertical Panorama Pavilion tasting suite at Donum Estate
The Vertical Panorama Pavilion at Donum Estate.

The second most renowned North American wine region, Sonoma, has long suffered the fate of being compared to the more famous wine valley that runs parallel to it: Napa. But outside of sharing a border, these two regions couldn’t be more different.

Sonoma wine country is actually double the size of Napa Valley, extending far beyond the town of Sonoma to worthwhile destinations like Healdsburg and the Russian River Valley, the funky town of Sebastopol, and even the Pacific Ocean.

While Napa Valley has zeroed in on Cabernet Sauvignon and Bordeaux varieties, Sonoma is far more diverse.

Home to more than 60 grape varieties (though Pinot Noir and Chardonnay are the stars) and upwards of 400 wineries spread throughout 19 AVAs, Sonoma is also known for its abundance of farms, creameries, breweries and distilleries.

Due to its vastness, there are two common mistakes visitors to Sonoma make. They either plan only a day or two, hardly scratching the surface, or they schedule winery appointments, meals and hotel stays without realising it can easily take an hour to get from one to the next. As a result, they’re constantly running late to reservations on what’s supposed to be a relaxing holiday. By focusing instead on a specific area, you can spend time experiencing rather than rushing, and really immerse yourself in the best of what Sonoma has to offer.

The town of Sonoma: The perfect place to begin

Understandably, most people who visit Sonoma wine country start with the town of Sonoma. An easy, one-hour drive from San Francisco, Sonoma is anchored by the charming and historic Sonoma Plaza. The birthplace of the California flag, this square played a pivotal role in the state’s declaration of independence from Mexican rule. The historic buildings and adobes are now occupied by shops, wine tasting rooms, hotels and restaurants. Miles of vineyards and winery estates surround the town, offering a plethora of tasting options.


The Chef’s Patio at MacArthur Place. Credit: MacArthur Place

Thursday

Check into the MacArthur Place Hotel & Spa for the weekend. Located in the heart of Sonoma and within a mile of the Sonoma Plaza, this idyllic resort recently completed a massive transformation.

The Spa at MacArthur is accented with modern, luxury elements, new treatment rooms, locker rooms complete with steam showers, an outdoor Hydrotherapy Spa Garden and Lounge, and a brand-new outdoor pool space complete with private pool cabanas. The Spa at MacArthur’s treatment menu offers a range of unique, bespoke therapies including skincare, body renewal treatments, massage techniques and 100-minute Journeys that include holistic healing elements.

Relax at the pool or spa before dinner at Layla, MacArthur’s Mediterranean restaurant, and then enjoy a nightcap at The Bar, a Gatsby-era lounge serving signature cocktails and late-night nibbles.


Sojourn Cellars wine tasting

Sojourn Cellars wine tasting. Credit Sojourn Cellars

Friday

Morning

Embark on an easy stroll to the Sonoma Plaza for a Lavender Mist mimosa and breakfast in the back garden of Sunflower Caffé, known for simple and healthy dishes made from hyper-local ingredients. Afterwards, take a walk around the square, pop into interesting-looking shops, and visit Sonoma State Historic Park, where, for a $3 admission fee, you can access six historical sites, including the Mission San Francisco Solano, the last of the 21 California missions built.

Lunch

Book a lunchtime tasting at Three Sticks Wines, housed in the Vallejo-Casteñada Adobe, the longest-occupied residence from California’s Mexican Period. The food and wine pairing ($110) includes a flight of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay (crafted by Bob Cabral, former winemaker for the renowned Williams Selyem) paired with five bites from Sonoma Plaza restaurant El Dorado Kitchen. Or, you can make it a three-course private lunch.

Afternoon

Schedule a second wine tasting in the intimate salon of Sojourn Cellars, which sources fruit for its Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays from some of the top vineyards in Sonoma County. Moreover, Sojourn is unique in that it also crafts Cabernet Sauvignon from both Sonoma and Napa. Through Sojourn’s comparative tasting format, you’ll learn to identify the nuances of each vineyard source.

Evening

Dine at Valley, an unassuming, French-inspired wine bar, restaurant and bottle shop that opened inside an adobe in 2020. Valley’s list is focused on natural and minimal intervention wines and simple, shareable plates. It combines seasonal ingredients with international flavours like XO eggs, Don Bocarte anchovies, and lamb with garlic yoghurt and za’atar. End the night with a glass of Champagne from Sigh, a glamorous bubbly bar located just around the corner from Valley.


Gloria Ferrer winery in Sonoma

Gloria Ferrer winery. Credit: Gary Crabbe / Alamy Stock Photo

Saturday

Morning

Following a light breakfast at The Porch at MacArthur, a grab-and-go café, drive out to the bucolic Carneros AVA, which spans parts of both Napa and Sonoma. Start the day at Donum Estate; even though it’s only a 10-minute drive from the hotel, once there, it feels like a totally different world. The Explore Experience ($200 per person) includes an ATV tour of Donum’s impressive open-air art sculpture collection, working farm, lavender fields and vineyards, culminating in a private tasting of its finest wines. Crafted with minimal intervention, Donum’s lineup showcases the diversity and uniqueness of California’s top-producing Pinot Noir regions, including the Russian River, Anderson Valley and its home base of Carneros.

Lunch

Turn left back on Highway 12 and, after a few miles, pull over at the old country roadhouse that reads Lou’s Luncheonette. No reservations, so you may have to wait for a table out on the back patio (often shared with a few chickens), but the array of fried chicken options is worth it.

Afternoon

Lou’s hearty fare has probably whetted your appetite for something a bit different, so a trip to Carneros might be the right choice. Among Gloria Ferrer’s many tasting offerings is the Extended Tirage Experience ($125), a tasting of all of the house’s vintage and longer-aged sparkling wines. The experience showcases the ageability of sparkling wine over a 90-minute tasting session.

Evening

The first wine country outpost from world-renowned chef Michael Mina, Wit & Wisdom has been the talk of the town since opening in 2020. From seafood towers to handmade pasta, wood-fired pizzas and hearty meats, the best strategy here is to order several plates and share, though the craft cocktails and duck wings are a must-order. You’ll leave feeling stuffed, but your bed at MacArthur is less than a mile away.


Dinner at the girl & the fig. Credit: the girl & the fig

Sunday

Return to Sonoma Plaza for brunch at the girl + the fig, a Sonoma staple. This buzzing and classic French bistro serves up comforting country food made with local ingredients – croque monsieur, quiche Lorraine, duck confit – that will soak up all of the weekend’s imbibing. Before you leave, take one last stroll around the plaza to digest and purchase last-minute souvenirs.

Original story by Jess Lander updated October 2023 by J’nai Gaither


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Roederer warns UK urban winery Renegade over 'Crystal' wine https://www.decanter.com/wine-news/roederer-warns-uk-urban-winery-renegade-over-crystal-wine-514897/ Wed, 25 Oct 2023 11:05:52 +0000 https://www.decanter.com/?p=514897 Crystal wine by Renegade urban winery in London
The back label of 'Crystal' by Renegade urban winery in London. It is named after Crystal, a former student in London who now lives in Kuala Lumpur.

London urban winery receives letter from lawyers representing Champagne Louis Roederer...

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Crystal wine by Renegade urban winery in London
The back label of 'Crystal' by Renegade urban winery in London. It is named after Crystal, a former student in London who now lives in Kuala Lumpur.

London urban winery Renegade was contacted by a legal firm stating that it represents France’s Champagne Louis Roederer, and claiming the UK producer’s use of ‘Crystal’ on one of its wines infringes the trademark rights of Roederer’s Cristal brand.

Renegade’s Crystal is a pink pet nat sparkling wine produced with Croatina grapes from Italy’s Lombardy region. However, according to Renegade, the law firm said the name is too similar to Cristal, with only the ‘y’ and ‘i’ exchanged.

Lawyers also accused the winery of ‘passing off’, a form of misrepresentation that may have damaged Cristal’s reputation with drinkers.

Renegade founder Warwick Smith said he was surprised to receive the legal letter. It was never our intention to copy or pass ourselves off as Cristal,’ he said. ‘We admire and respect the great work of Champagne houses such as Louis Roederer. We are keen to resolve this amicably with Louis Roederer and their lawyers.’

He said the bottles were ‘completely different’ and the brand names were pronounced differently.

Crystal Pet Nat wine from Renegade urban winery

‘Crystal’ Pet Nat wine from Renegade. Credit: Warwick Smith.

He said Renegade’s wine is named after a real person, Crystal, who was a fashion student in London in 2018, and agreed to have her face featured on the label. He said it ‘never even crossed our minds’ that it could be confused with Cristal Champagne.

Renegade, founded in East London in 2016, produces a range of different wines featuring the image of a real person.

Cristal 2013

Louis Roederer’s Cristal 2013. Credit: Louis Roederer.

It’s understood the law firm that contacted Renegade also expressed Louis Roederer’s desire to resolve the situation amicably. Yet, it asked Renegade to cease using the ‘Crystal’ name or potentially face legal action in court.   

Louis Roederer’s UK distributor, Maison Marques & Domaines, said it was unable to confirm any details or comment on the matter, which was being handled by the producer’s legal team.

Renegade made around 6,000 bottles of Crystal wine from the 2021 vintage, currently on sale via its website for £27-a-bottle, and about 7,000 bottles of the not-yet-released 2022 vintage. There won’t be a 2023 vintage, because Renegade is focusing on sourcing grapes from English vineyards this year, said Smith. 

He said the company’s total production was up to 70,000 bottles per year, but this year would be more like 45,000 bottles.

Louis Roederer’s Cristal is one of the world’s most sought-after Champagnes, first created in 1876 to satisfy the tastes of Tsar Alexander II. The blend is generally around 60% Pinot Noir and 40% Chardonnay. 


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Where to stay in Napa for every budget https://www.decanter.com/wine-travel/where-to-stay-napa-for-every-budget-430144/ Mon, 23 Oct 2023 06:00:06 +0000 https://www.decanter.com/?p=430144 The Farm restaurant, Carneros Resort and Spa.
The Farm restaurant, Carneros Resort and Spa.

The best accommodation options in the heart of Californian wine country...

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The Farm restaurant, Carneros Resort and Spa.
The Farm restaurant, Carneros Resort and Spa.

California’s Napa Valley has long been the ultimate destination for hedonistic oenotourists, with some accommodation options reaching $6,000 a night. While there are still mind-blowing, luxurious stays that cost more than a month’s salary, there are also many more places to choose from, each offering something a little different – and not all of them will blow the budget.

Busy times tend to be around harvest, from August to November, so be sure to book in advance if you want to travel then (and be prepared for the inevitable eye-watering price hikes). Quieter times are between March and May. You may not see grapes on the vines, but crowds are smaller, it’s sunny, and the vine flowers will be out in all their glory.

Food is a huge focus in the region, with gorgeously fresh and simple farm-to-fork restaurants on almost every corner, as well as a plethora of Michelin-star dining rooms, many in the hotels themselves.

For those seeking to pamper, the spa scene has exploded in a similar way to the food scene, with even budget-priced guest houses and hotels offering vinotherapy as well as upmarket spa experiences.

The issue of wine tasting and getting around has been well addressed in recent years, with many locations offering complimentary drivers and shuttles to nearby activities. The most convenient way to see Napa is still with your own car, but if no one on your team wants to be the designated driver (it’s a wine destination after all!), there are several chauffeur companies that will transport you from tasting room to tasting room. Many hotels have solved this problem for some of their customers by hosting their own regular tastings at sundown, often with winemakers present.

Family-friendly wine tourism has improved, too, with children more welcome in some guest houses and hotels than perhaps they used to be. And dogs are well received in a great many places. Welcome to Napa!


Best for vineyard views

Alila Napa Valley. Credit: Alila Napa Valley

Alila Napa Valley

1915 Main St, St Helena, CA 94574

Alila Napa Valley, located in St Helena, is a perfect locale for those seeking vineyard views. Situated in an old Georgian house, it feels more like a private estate than a hotel – an estate with a rather famous neighbour. The historic Beringer Vineyards sit adjacent to Alila, and a good number of the 68 rooms and suites look out onto those very special vines. You can dine sitting on your own private terrace overlooking the vines, and the hotel’s outdoor pool and fire pit are just a few steps away. If it’s a splurge-worthy occasion, ask for a corner suite with one of the huge wraparound terraces looking straight onto the vineyards.

While you’re there, make sure you take the time to try the modern Californian cuisine at the hotel’s Acacia House restaurant. If it’s warm enough, book a table outside on the veranda, where wine lovers will want time to peruse the extensive wine list. And the cocktails are not to be missed.

St Helena is also a great location to explore many famous vineyards and wineries, such as Freemark Abbey and the wonderfully bonkers Raymond Vineyards just down the road. The hotel’s concierge can help organise winery visits, including transport, which may or may not include a hot air balloon ride over the vines.

Also try…

Harvest Inn

1 Main St, St Helena, CA 94574

With panoramic views of vineyards, as well as botanical gardens and tall redwood trees from many of the 81 rooms and suites, the Harvest Inn is surrounded by nature. Seek out one of its enormous Vineyard View Collection Suites, with private terraces looking onto the vines, or splurge on a Vineyard View Collection Spa room, with unobstructed vineyard views from your private outdoor hot tub.

Four Seasons Resort & Residences Napa Valley

400 Silverado Trail, Calistoga, CA 94515

Four Seasons Napa Valley

Four Seasons Napa Valley. Credit: Smith Collection / Gado / Getty Images

Four Seasons landed in Calistoga with much anticipation and fanfare. This high-design mecca of apartment-style ‘rooms’ upped the ante for luxury accommodation in Napa Valley’s northernmost town. Sleek hues of greys and whites and natural wood abound throughout the resort, ensuring a relaxed holiday atmosphere. The resort boasts its own fully functional winery, Elusa, which has a cosy yet luxe tasting room where guests and non-guests alike can taste the fruits of Thomas Rivers Brown’s – Elusa’s star winemaker – labour. And they can enjoy it while overlooking the resort’s private, 1.9ha organically-farmed vineyard.

Speaking of spectacular views, Four Seasons’ one Michelin-star restaurant, Auro, is a calming respite all of its own. The intimate outdoor terrace that looks onto the rest of the property is a perfect way to start what will surely be a fascinating culinary journey before setting foot in the low-lit, airy, wood and glass dining space.


Best for romance

Poetry Inn

6380 Silverado Trail, Stags Leap District, Napa, CA 94558

Located on the famous hills of Stags Leap District, just a five-minute walk into the gourmet capital of Yountville, this light and airy, adult-only guest house has just five rooms. Each is named after a famous poet and furnished to the highest standards, with spa-style bathrooms, sumptuous wardrobes and impressive personal service. It’s hard to imagine feeling more spoiled here, where every suite boasts expansive views of the valley, showers both indoor and outdoor, private terraces, wood burners and a well-stocked – free – minibar. You might be tempted to indulge until the executive chef prepares your epic complimentary breakfast in the morning, using local ingredients of the highest quality.

Rooms start at about 88m² and go up to a whopping 135m² of living space. You can hire out the large Farmhouse as a vacation home by the month if you’re so inclined, but you could take over the whole venue for a wedding or other big celebration. The Robert Louis Stevenson Suite is the iconic room to go for, but the Robert Frost room, with its two outdoor spaces and incredible light, is a very close second.

Also try…

Milliken Creek

1815 Silverado Trail, Napa, CA 94558

This romantic, bijou, five-star spa hotel lies off the beaten track, surrounded by leafy gardens. It offers tranquillity at its finest, with spa bathtubs and one-touch gas fires. The hotel can arrange transport around the valley for you and offers complimentary wine tastings in the early evenings.


Best for families

Carneros Resort & Spa

4048 Sonoma Hwy, Napa, CA 94559

With its two-cottage suites, residences and multi-bedroom private homes, Carneros Resort & Spa is an ideal place to stay with a family of all ages. You’ll love the 11ha of bucolic, sprawling farmland, with its kiddie-dedicated pool, bicycle hire and vegetable garden with chicken coop. Rooms are self-catering for family ease, but there’s also a choice of three excellent restaurants, ranging from the lively Boon Fly Café to the grander Farm restaurant and Hilltop Dining Room, with plenty of child-friendly dishes on offer. You can request packed lunches for your afternoon activities or put your own together from the swanky, on-site general store.

For those wanting a fantastic wine-and-dine experience without having to leave the children at night, you can order a wine tasting and dinner in the comfort of your own residence while the little ones are in bed. The winemaker from the resort’s partner winery, Cuvaison Estate Wines, will even join you for a private tasting if you wish.

For those itching to get out, however, the resort can help organise a babysitter for you – especially good to know once you check out all the events at its Pavilion venue.

Also try…

Napa Valley Lodge

2230 Madison St, Yountville, CA 94599

Ideally situated in Yountville, with a plethora of eateries on the doorstep, the rooms here are spacious, with a cosy farmhouse vibe. Try the make-your-own waffles at breakfast and freshly baked cookies available in the lobby every day before enjoying the pool, bocce ball court, lawn games and free bike hire. There’s also a playground and green space just across the street.


Best for foodies

Meadowood

900 Meadowood Lane, St Helena, CA 94574

A perennial favourite for foodies and luxury travellers, Meadowood, despite the Glass Incident Fire that took its beloved restaurant and some of its rooms, still leads the way for gourmands with its seamless blend of life’s pleasures, especially food and wine. Service is exemplary throughout its activity offerings – from the sporty side (tennis and hiking) to the more leisurely spa treatments and hedonistic wine and food experiences.

Chef Christopher Kostow earned Meadowood’s erstwhile restaurant three Michelin stars, but it managed to keep a warm, jovial ambience that was cosy and clever rather than stuffy and standoffish. The new restaurant in its place, Forum, continues in that vein.

Forum is situated at Meadowood’s famed tennis courts under a white and yellow-striped awning, reminiscent of the Big Top of a Cirque du Soleil performance. Wine country ‘starchitect’ Howard Backen designed the space to fit into the natural surroundings of the resort. The premise of the concept was to be a homey, gathering place for guests and locals alike, with seasonally-inspired menus by chef Scot Livingston and creative cocktails.

Also try…

Hotel Yountville

6462 Washington St, Yountville, CA 94599

Yountville itself is arguably the foodiest part of Napa Valley, with Michelin star restaurants and an array of other delicious eateries on the doorstep. Hotel Yountville is the perfect base for exploring the area. Still, you’ll also want to make the most of its luxury spa facilities and numerous fine dining options with its cosy, wooden-beam-with-copper-accents vibe.


Best for budgets

Calistoga Motor Lodge

1880 Lincoln Ave, Calistoga, CA 94515

Both family-friendly and dog-friendly, what the Calistoga Motor Lodge lacks in Napa hedonism, it makes up for in charm and quirkiness. This renovated roadside motel channels a modern, mid-century America, camper-van-chic vibe with fun touches such as skipping ropes and hula hoops for little kids and big kids alike.

Budget it may be (for Napa, anyway), but that does not mean there are no treats. The MoonAcre spa and baths on-site are more of a social, fun affair than in other places. Make sure you take time to soak in the mineral pools fed by natural springs and have a go at applying your own masque at the mud bar. Even the treatments have quirky twists, such as massages and soaks using CBD (an active ingredient in cannabis), as well as the MoonAcre mud bake, bath and massage, a full 120-minute treatment. The relaxed and inviting nature of the spa makes it even more accessible and a particularly good location for groups of friends.

Also try…

El Bonita Motel

195 Main Street, St Helena, CA 94574

With its neon ‘Vacancy/No Vacancy’ sign out front, along with the walk-up, one-storey El Bonita does look like the typical motel, but this is Napa Valley – nothing here is typical. El Bonita is an art deco motel in the heart of St Helena. The clean, cosy rooms come with high-end bathroom fixtures, headboards with Napa Valley landscapes, and microwaves and refrigerators for convenience. With two separate buildings –  one of which has three floors and a lounge and fire pit area for relaxation, a pool, sauna and jacuzzi – El Bonita punches way above its weight class for budget accommodation.

Napa Valley Railway Inn

6523 Washington St, Yountville, CA 94599

The turn-of-the-century-style rooms at the Railway Inn in Yountville are each located inside century-old railcars. While basic, the long, narrow rooms are well-kept and charming. Save your money here for a blow-out meal at one of the many top restaurants nearby. Tip: ask for one of the quieter bedrooms away from the road.

Original post by Helena Nicklin updated October 2023 by J’nai Gaither


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Bordeaux in Paris: Top restaurants and bars https://www.decanter.com/wine/wine-regions/bordeaux-in-paris-top-restaurants-and-bars-503520/ Thu, 19 Oct 2023 06:00:12 +0000 https://www.decanter.com/?p=503520 Paris city scape with Eiffel tower

The best spots for Bordeaux in the French capital...

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Paris city scape with Eiffel tower

Contrary to popular belief, not all Parisian pours need be natural. Despite the rise in glou-glou wine bars and natural-heavy selections, a plethora of classically-styled wine lists still dominate a good number of Parisian establishments.

From prestigious growths to Médoc-based Cru Bourgeois to the great Cru Classés of Saint-Emilion, an endless amount of current release and back-vintage Bordeaux is just waiting to be discovered in Parisian cellars everywhere.

Not sure where to look? Check out the Bordeaux-heavy lists at these classic City of Light institutions, here.


Le Clarence

31 Av. Franklin Delano Roosevelt, 75008

In the realm of Paris-based Bordeaux offerings, Le Clarence undeniably holds one of the best selections. Located on the prestigious Avenue Franklin D. Roosevelt in Paris’ 8th arrondissement, the impressive 1,400 references are exclusively French. Strong holdings come from Burgundy, the Rhône, and of course, Bordeaux. The restaurant itself falls under family-owned Domaine Clarence Dillon, the famed family behind Château Haut-Brion, La Mission Haut-Brion and Château Quintus. While the restaurant’s set menus will cost you a pretty penny – think €180 for three courses, €250 for five courses, and €350 for seven courses, its back-vintage verticals from some of Bordeaux’s top estates make it entirely worth it.


La Tour d’Argent

19 Quai de la Tournelle, 75005

Credit: HJBC / Alamy Stock Photo

After more than a year of having its doors shuttered, La Tour d’Argent reopened this summer. Located in Paris’ 5th arrondissement, La Tour d’Argent’s roots date back to 1582, though the establishment of the restaurant took place about 300 years later. Today, this breathtaking Michelin-star restaurant is beloved for its panoramic views, as well as its Bible-like wine list, which promises something for every curious Bordeaux drinker out there. While the meal itself isn’t necessarily cheap, heading to La Tour for lunch offers a more budget-friendly option.


Garance

34 Rue Saint-Dominique, 75007

Located just a hop, skip, and a jump away from Les Invalides, Garance offers a flavour-packed reprieve from the neighbourhood’s large number of tourist-focused destinations. Established under the oversight of Guillaume Muller, this quality-focused restaurant highlights seasonal ingredients and meticulous attention to detail; even the restaurant’s beef comes from the family farm located in nearby Limousin. With regards to the wine cellar, the impressive list boasts over 8,000 bottles – and of the 21-page wine list, two full pages are dedicated to red wines from Bordeaux. Responsibly-sourced meat and a bottle of claret? Sign us up.


Le Taillevent

15 Rue Lamennais, 75008

Credit: Glenn Harper / Alamy Stock Photo

For fine wine and impeccable plates served in a classically elegant ambiance, head to Le Taillevent. Located in the city’s 8th arrondissement, this iconic Parisian staple first opened its doors back in 1946 and has remained an institution ever since. The restaurant’s wine game has only gotten better over time and its list is now spearheaded by Antoine Pétrus, whose focus remains on great wines from Burgundy and Bordeaux. The cellar’s offerings include an impressive vertical from Château Latour, as well as a number of top Left and Right Bank selections. Note: The restaurant is closed on weekends but offers dinner Monday to Friday with a lunch service Tuesday to Friday.


Frenchie Bar à Vins

6 Rue du Nil, 75002

For those looking to enjoy Bordeaux wines in a more laid-back environment, look no further than Frenchie Bar à Vins. Located on the quiet Rue du Nil in Paris’ 2nd arrondissement, this small-yet-fierce wine bar offers something for every Bordeaux budget and palate preference. A number of bottles under the €100 mark exist, with the most affordable starting at just €40 (Château Dutruch Grand Poujeaux, Moulis en Médoc, Petit Dutruch). For those looking to splurge, worry not – two prestigious bottles of Petrus from the 2003 and 2012 vintages currently grace the list, as well as picks from Château Pontet-Canet, Château Mouton Rothschild, Château Palmer, and more.


Le Petit Sommelier

49 Avenue du Maine, 75014

Although the Montparnasse area of Paris is generally known for its Bordeaux-bound trains and overpriced, Hemingway-frequented bars, a visit to Le Petit Sommelier will completely change your view of the neighbourhood. While the bistro may look slightly unimpressive from the outside, the restaurant’s list of over 1,000 references is sure to get your curiosity going. Now spearheaded by wine director Pierre Vila Palleja, this boisterous, French-heavy wine list offers a large number of selections perfect for pairing with the kitchen’s hearty, meat-heavy cuisine. The only thing more impressive than the 13,000-bottle cellar? The extremely affordable prices, especially on back-vintage bottles.


Restaurant La Truffière

4 Rue Blainville, 75005

Credit: Meghan Bulmer / Alamy Stock Photo

There’s no better place to send our Bordeaux list out with a bang than Restaurant La Truffière, which first opened its doors back in 1984. Situated in the 5th arrondissement, this old school Parisian restaurant offers an extensive selection of Bordeaux wines, spanning current release and back-vintage offerings from the region’s top names. The wine list is overseen by La Truffière’s chef-owner Christian Sainsard, who also has an equal affinity for wines from Burgundy and the Rhône. For those truly looking to indulge, be sure to splurge on the six-course truffle tasting menu (for a more modest option, stop in for lunch from Thursday to Saturday) – and if possible, be sure to request seating in the restaurant’s 17th-century wine cellar.


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Bordeaux: Best of Wine Tourism Awards 2024 https://www.decanter.com/wine-news/bordeaux-best-of-wine-tourism-awards-2024-514206/ Wed, 18 Oct 2023 07:48:18 +0000 https://www.decanter.com/?p=514206 Bordeaux wine tourism 2024
The Cellar of Lights at Château La Fleur de Boüard.

Where to go and what to do in Bordeaux in 2024...

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Bordeaux wine tourism 2024
The Cellar of Lights at Château La Fleur de Boüard.

Earlier this month, the Great Wine Capitals Global Network announced the 2024 Best of Wine Tourism awards for Bordeaux.

This year’s eight winners (see below), selected from 23 finalists, were announced at a ceremony in the Bordeaux CCI’s building on the Place de la Bourse.

The winners highlight just how open Bordeaux now is, and not just for classic cellar visits. Eclectic initiatives show how innovative winemakers are being in sharing their world. It’s also a great network for the winners to exchange and share ideas on wine tourism, innovation, education and sustainable development.

Winners from all regions across the seven categories (Architecture & Landscape, Art & Culture, Innovative Wine Tourism Experiences, Wine Tourism Restaurants, Accommodation, Sustainable Wine Tourism Practices and Wine Tourism Services), as well as a surprise jury selection, will compete in the international final in Lausanne next month (November). In addition, the winners will compete for a yet to be decided People’s Choice Award, which is voted for online by the public.

Created in 1999 by the Bordeaux Chamber of Commerce and Industry (CCI) to reward innovative wine tourism, the network now includes 12 ‘wine cities’ worldwide: Adelaide (South Australia), Bilbao/Rioja (Spain), Cape Town/Cape Winelands (South Africa), Hawke’s Bay (New Zealand), Lausanne (Switzerland), Mainz/Rheinhessen (Germany), Mendoza (Argentina), Porto (Portugal), San Francisco/Napa Valley (US), Valparaiso/Casablanca Valley (Chile) and Verona (Italy).

The network is a partner of the Porto Protocol Foundation, and is also one of the founders of the Sustainable Wine Roundtable. Furthermore, it has a web portal which matches exchange and internship requests, in addition to offers in the wine and tourism industry across the regions.


Awards & Winners

Architecture & Landscape

Won by Château Montlabert in St-Emilion, with its tree-lined drive and white rose garden behind the neoclassical 18th century chartreuse.
1 Lieu-dit Montlabert, 33330 St-Emilion


Art & Culture

This category went to cru bourgeois Château Castera in the Médoc. Every year, Castera invites a contemporary artist to create and show works at its Castera Expose.
Rue du Bourg, 33340 St-Germain d’Esteuil


Innovative Wine Tourism Experiences

St-Emilion Grand Cru, Château Rol Valentin, won the  prize with its Verre-Tigineux tasting, a masterclass in how the shape and size of the glass changes our tasting experience.
2 Lieu-dit Bel Air, 33330 St-Etienne de Lisse


Accommodation

In the Graves de Vayres, winner Château Fage, La Maison des Vignes opened in 2021 as an elegant and modern 26-room, four-star hotel. A long, sunny terrace runs along the lap pool in the vines, Close to St-Emilion, it’s a great base for wine tours.
Lieu-dit Fage, 33500 Arveyres


Wine Tourism Restaurants

Château Malartic-Lagraviere in Pessac-Léognan won the title this year. It is known for its gastronomy, offering everything from chic picnics in the park to cooking lessons with the chef and elegant lunches in the beautiful chateau, sharing its inspiration via the Les Quatre Saisons de Malartic cookbook.
43 Avenue de Mont de Marsan, 33850 Léognan


Sustainable Wine Tourism Practices

Château Mauvinon in St-Emilion explains its biodynamic philosophy from the Nichoir de Mauvinon, a terrace high above the vines. With a glass of organic wine, guests can join in the local wildlife headcount which is increased by the nesting boxes installed in the vines.
217 Mauvinon, 33330 St-Sulpice de Faleyrens


Wine Tourism Services

A pioneer of wine tourism in Margaux, third growth Château Giscours took this title due to the diversity of its experiences. The spectacular château opens its doors and dining room for intimate tastings and farm-to-table meals at La Table de Giscours, sourcing products from its home farm and kitchen garden. In contrast, La Ferme Suzanne welcomes up to 2,000 guests for more spectacular events.
10 route de Giscours, 33460 Labarde


Jury Selection

Château Arbo in Montagne St-Emilion is this year’s winner. Created in 2015 by young winemakers Astrid and Dorian after they met at wine school, the estate has always been open to visitors. Having renovated the vines and cellars of this 6.5ha property, a self-catering flat has now been upgraded and is available to rent through Airbnb.
13 route des Faucheries, 33570 Montagne


Aside from the winners, many of the runners up are worthy of a mention. The Cellar of Lights at Château La Fleur de Boüard and the galaxy of disco balls and stroboscopes that shower visitors with stars at Château Siran are playful, immersive experiences.

There are beautiful guest rooms in the elegant 18th century chartreuse of Château Laffitte Carcassett in St-Estèphe. At Château Lamothe-Cissac in the Haut-Médoc there is a wine escape game that liberates the bottle rather than the guests.

The Cellar of Lights at Château La Fleur de Boüard. Credit: Château La Fleur de Boüard

Château de Rouillac in Pessac-Léognan shares its passion for horses and wine with a tasting in its beautiful stables, while the Courselle sisters at Château Thieuley have increased biodiversity by planting olive trees, orchards, truffle oaks, hedges and bee hives for its Bee Friendly certification.

La Maison du Vin de Blaye organises a two-day spring festival at the UNESCO World Heritage site of La Citadelle on the Right Bank of the Gironde estuary for its 450 winemakers.

If you can’t decide, La Bulle Verte operates eco-stations across Bordeaux. Thanks to a mobile app, its e-bikes take visitors to more than 30 sustainable wine tourism destinations, including many previous ‘Best Of’ winners. As with many of the experiences offered by this year’s victors, it offers wine education wrapped in pure enjoyment.

Explore Bordeaux at a slower pace with La Bulle Verte. Credit: Bordeaux Tourisme & Congrès


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Corsica for wine lovers https://www.decanter.com/wine/corsica-for-wine-lovers-511633/ Thu, 05 Oct 2023 07:00:56 +0000 https://www.decanter.com/?p=511633 The Iles Sanguinaires on Corsica’s southwest coast, with one of the island’s many Genoese-era towers
The Iles Sanguinaires on Corsica’s southwest coast, with one of the island’s many Genoese-era towers.

Breathtaking scenery and a huge variety of wine...

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The Iles Sanguinaires on Corsica’s southwest coast, with one of the island’s many Genoese-era towers
The Iles Sanguinaires on Corsica’s southwest coast, with one of the island’s many Genoese-era towers.

Pick any vineyard in Corsica and there is a high chance you’ll enjoy a spectacular view as well as excellent wines. You might gaze upon the sea from the vineyards in Cap Corse or admire the wave-shaped La Conca d’Oru mountain in the Patrimonio wine region. Wherever you are on the island, the breathtaking scenery varies, but so too does the soil, ranging from slate to clay-limestone to granite. It means Corsica delivers a huge variety of wine, even with the same grapes being used throughout.

Although the summer sees a huge influx of visitors, those in search of Corsica’s vinous and gastronomic assets will find the cooler months bring fewer crowds, along with rewards such as vineyard walks and the chance to try its rustic, seasonal cuisine which isn’t available in peak summer – the island’s much-loved brocciu cheese comes back into production in October, while the chestnut pulenda (similar to polenta, but made with chestnut flour) and figatellu sausage are eaten over the autumn and winter. A week allows for a whistle-stop tour of the 180km-long island, but a trip of 10 to 14 days allows for a more comfortable pace.

A good place to start is Domaine Devichi, which is now in the hands of Marie-Françoise Devichi, the sixth generation and the first woman in the family to run the estate. As well as developing her own modern ‘Mlle Devichi’ branding for the wines and experimenting with biodynamics and ecological methods, she offers visitors the chance to take guided walks around the 42ha site to learn about the clay-limestone terroir and how the grapes – namely Niellucciu for reds, Vermintinu for whites and Muscat à Petits Grains for dessert wine – grow in the company of broom flowers, wild asparagus and wild pear.

At the centre of the vines is her grandfather’s winery and house, shaded by mighty 200-year-old eucalyptus trees. Devichi hopes to one day put it back into use, but for now tastings are offered at her family’s newer winery, set in the village of Barbaggio. The Patrimonio appellation, to which Domaine Devichi belongs, was the first in Corsica to be awarded its AP, in 1968, and it has a winning combination of terre et mer in that it is close to the sea with a clay-limestone soil. It lies at the foot of Cap Corse, the mountainous peninsula that juts out to the north. The wines here gain minerality from the slate soil and have a much stronger influence from the sea. This is also reflected in its social history: its inhabitants were sailors and explorers rather than farmers and shepherds as with the rest of the island.

Seafaring legacy

Looking down on the harbour from Bonifacio old town. Credit: Westend61 / Lisa & Wilfried Bahnmüller / Getty Images.

Tucked away in the village of Macinaggio, in the Cap’s northeast corner, Sébastien Luigi’s family winery Clos Nicrosi (+33 [0]6 11 91 12 15) was established in the 1850s by Luigi’s four-times-great-grandfather who had – as many Cap Corsicans did – sailed to the Americas to make his fortune. To show how well he had done, he built their family home, a so-called Maison Américain – these elegant Tuscan-style mansions can be seen throughout Cap Corse and are testimony to a history shared by many other local families. Though Luigi’s father and grandfather continued to look abroad to sell, Luigi has scaled back on the exports, preferring to keep the wines more exclusive and sell to the island’s best restaurants. One of these smaller-scale wines is rappu, a sublimely moreish sweet red wine unique to Cap Corse made with the Aleatico grape.

In northwest corner of the Cap you will find Centuri, a fishing village where you can enjoy the local speciality of lobster and langoustine at one of the many quayside restaurants, such as U Cavallu Di Mare (+33 [0]6 18 15 76 31), with a view of the harbour. Returning south along the twisting roads of the jagged east coast, you come to Bastia. This lively town, where ferries arrive from Italy and France, offers fine food and wine stores, such as Mattei Concept Store (see below) and U Paese, where the island’s signature charcuterie hangs from the rafters. Take the newly installed lift from the Quai Albert Gillio up to the town’s 14th-century citadel, where you can explore the network of narrow streets, browse its boutiques and pause for dinner overlooking the old harbour.


My perfect day in Sartene & Bonifacio

Morning

Corsica’s villages are ideal for the flâneur; the village of Sartène offers the chance to stroll through narrow medieval streets, up steps and down alleys, before stopping for
a café crème in Place Porta. From there it is a 25-minute drive to Domaine Saparale, a beautiful winery overlooking L’Omu di Cagna. It is set in the buildings of a former hamlet where you can see that the estate even had its own police station to protect it from 19th-century bandits. A tour of the winery followed by a tasting of their excellent wines is a joy, while it also gives the chance to discover their new range of natural wines.

Afternoon

Just 15 minutes from the winery is La Bergerie d’Acciola, a restaurant where the island’s charcuterie, meat and cheese producers are celebrated. From there, it’s just a 14km detour to one of the island’s best beaches, Plage de Roccapina: a strip of fine blond sand lapped by tranquil azure waters. It’s a good place to pause before the hour’s drive to Domaine Zuria to take a winery tour and a tasting before heading on to Bonifacio.

Evening

While Bonifacio is best viewed from the sea, you get an incredible view of the limestone coastline and the town’s cliff-top houses from the Campu Rumanilu viewpoint a few minutes’ drive south. Once you get into the maze of narrow streets, there are galleries and boutiques to explore, while L’Assaghju bar (21 rue du Palais) offers the owner’s homemade aperitifs made with the island’s chestnuts. The restaurant L’Archivolto (2 rue Archivolto) is just around the corner serving such dishes as grilled fish and glossy vegetables within its cosy, character-filled interior. Stay at the Hotel Le Royal, just a few steps away.


The beautiful south

Domaine Saparale, near Sartène village

The road from Bastia to the Sartène wine region, a 3.5-hour drive to the southwest, takes you right across the island and through the jaw-dropping scenery in its heart. In this region the terroir is granitic and red wines come from the Sciaccarellu grape, as well as Niellucciu and Grenache. A visit to Domaine Saparale near the village of Sartène gives the chance to enjoy a tasting and hear about the domaine’s storied past. Saparale was established in 1850 by a lawyer who had explored Africa for years – inspiring the winery’s elephant logo – returning home to pursue his dream of developing a self-contained village and vineyards.

‘People thought he was mad,’ says today’s owner Julia Farinelli. ‘But he really had a vision to create great Corsican wines.’ Sadly, the success was short-lived due to phylloxera and the world wars, but Julie and husband Philippe have restored the estate and now produce natural wines alongside its usual range. A hotel will open in 2024 to add to its luxurious self-catering accommodation, set in the estate’s former shepherds’ huts.

Indeed, this is how many other wineries in the area, such as Domaine de Peretti della Rocca, are using their ancient buildings to welcome guests. As well as his four bergeries, Jean-Baptiste de Peretti runs a chic restaurant overlooking the domaine’s vines with a view of the dramatic mountain L’Omu di Cagna.

In the island’s far south, the wine scene offers yet another experience. After visiting Bonifacio, a town perched on a high promontory where you can lose yourself in the narrow streets of the old town, visit Domaine Zuria. This winery offers tours and tastings (Monday to Saturday 11am-3pm, €24 per person: book ahead) that reveal how the limestone soil in this southern tip offers yet another character for Corsica’s wines. And while summer sees the winery host such events as music evenings and hog roasts, autumn is the time when they tend the vineyards with the help of their horse-drawn plough.


Your Corsica address book

Jardin des Abeilles

Accommodation

Domaine Saparale, Sartène

This sophisticated winery in Corsica’s southwest has converted three shepherds’ huts into luxurious accommodation, each with a swimming pool. Homemade meals and local produce can be delivered.

Hotel Le Saint Jean, Ersa

Set high above the coast in the village of Ersa at the northern tip of the Cap Corse peninsula, this hotel offers breathtaking views of the coastline. The restaurant offers a good-quality menu and a small selection of local wines.

La Dimora, Oletta

This chic hotel is set in an 18th-century farmhouse 6km from the small waterfront town of St-Florent, and boasts a beautiful outdoor pool and an excellent restaurant. It is also within easy reach of the Patrimonio vineyards.

Restaurants

A Nepita, Ajaccio

British chef Simon Andrews arrived in Corsica 20 years ago and A Nepita has become one of the most acclaimed restaurants on the island. He uses carefully chosen Corsican produce and his wine list showcases some excellent local vineyards.

La Bergerie d’Acciolo, Giuncheto

This relaxed yet sophisticated restaurant serves dishes cooked on its wood-fired grill, using top-quality produce. Its wine list gives a full explanation of how each of its chosen wines is made as well as tasting notes. +33 (0)4 95 77 14 00

Le Petit Vincent, Bastia

Next to the citadel, this intimate restaurant serves a short but carefully created menu with locally caught fish. Its terrace offers an excellent view of the city’s harbour, with blankets on hand for chillier nights. +33 (0) 4 20 00 14 67

Things to do

Jardin des Abeilles, Ocana

Honey is another of the island’s specialities and its flavour varies depending on the season and location of the hives. Tour the bee garden to learn more and try the six different types, including chestnut honey.

Local producers

Visit some of the island’s cheese, charcuterie or other food producers, who are signposted throughout the island as part of the Route des Sens Authentiques initiative. They will show you their workshops and you can buy direct.

Mattei Concept Store, Bastia

Next to Bastia’s main square, Place St-Nicolas, this Art Deco-fronted boutique is owned by the Distillerie Mattei. Its classy, wood-panelled interior has shelves filled with its range of aperitifs, liqueurs and beers, as well as other foods from the island.


Credit: Maggie Nelson

How to get there

Bastia airport, in the north of the island, is less than two hours’ drive from the tip of Cap Corse and 30 minutes from the Patrimonio vineyards. Figari airport, in the south, is 30-40 minutes from the vineyards of Sartène and Bonifacio.


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Decanter’s Dream Destination: Borgo San Vincenzo, Tuscany, Italy https://www.decanter.com/wine/decanters-dream-destination-borgo-san-vincenzo-tuscany-italy-512021/ Mon, 02 Oct 2023 07:00:52 +0000 https://www.decanter.com/?p=512021 Borgo San Vincenzo

Relaxed yet luxurious, and nestled in the heart of the Montepulciano wine region...

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Borgo San Vincenzo

Named one of the best new hotels of the year in Travel + Leisure’s 2023 It List, this restored 18th-century borgo is the embodiment of ‘approachable luxury’. American owners and seasoned hoteliers Scott and Shannon Kircher also own a hotel in the Caribbean, where they pride themselves on offering a ‘barefoot luxury’ experience. You’ll find the same ‘at home’, relaxed and informal vibe here – the size (21 rooms and suites) gives it an intimate feel, pop music plays in the restaurant, and Shannon and Scott enjoy stopping to chat with guests.

Don’t be fooled though. The hotel, which opened its doors in September 2022, and is named after the patron saint of winemaking, offers a level of comfort and service, and attention to detail, to rival the most upmarket hotels in the region. It’s not as flashy as some Tuscan hotels, and given the smaller scale you won’t find a spa or a choice of restaurants, but what’s there is perfectly done, and aimed very much at the discerning wine lover.

Tuscan countryside chic

The accommodation and communal areas have been styled in a rustic fashion, with beams and exposed brickwork featuring heavily, and olive green and neutral tones. Tuscan countryside chic. The area itself is relaxed too, off the well-trodden Tuscan tourist trail but not too far removed.

We’re in the heart of the Montepulciano wine region, around 10 minutes from the town of the same name  – UNESCO-recognised vineyard vistas stretch all around, particularly special viewed from the terrace with fire pit, drink in hand. The region, which has attracted investment from top names such as Antinori and Frescobaldi, is home to the famous Vino Nobile wines. Famous, but not as famous as Chianti or Brunello, point out the owners, who feel the region is sidelined even in wine courses specialising in Italy.

They’re passionate about introducing guests to local growers, and educating them in the wines of the area, and have linked up with the Wine Scholar Guild to provide a twice-yearly five-day ‘Tuscan Wine Week’, an opportunity for guests to learn about the wines of Montepulciano and the wider Tuscan region. The programme includes private tours and tastings, including visits to Montalcino, a five-course winemaker dinner, and a special session just on the wines of Montepulciano. Guests can dip in as they wish, paying for some or all of the activities.

Outside of the set Wine Weeks, winemaker dinners take place monthly, and the excellent concierge service can arrange visits to local growers as well as estates around Tuscany. Or guests can explore under their own steam, using the complimentary e-bikes for the closest wine estates. Boscarelli, just a stone’s throw away, has a working wine farm feel and a respected range of wines – don’t miss the straight Vino Nobile Riserva. Other estates open to tourists range from Avignonesi, which has an established hospitality programme, to La Combarbia, a one-man operation where the owner speaks no English but does receive visitors.

Explore local wines from your restaurant table

Beyond wine, guests can use the concierge service to book organic olive oil and pecorino cheese tastings at local farms, cooking and cocktail-making classes, and tours of the region by foot, horse, Vespa, or hot air balloon. Or if that all sounds too energetic, the pool deck is a suntrap, and just steps away from the glass-walled restaurant overlooking the gardens, Il Ciuchino, and the Flying Monk bar. You can always explore the wines of the area from your restaurant table – don’t miss the moreish white wine made from the rare Pulcinculo grape, found only in the Montepulciano region, or enjoy a wide choice of Tuscan reds with traditional dishes such as peposo, a hearty beef stew made with red wine and black pepper.

Franky, the talented and enthusiastic food and beverage director, has started working with the Coravin wine preservation system to provide a good line-up of by-the-glass options. He’s also planning wine flights, including verticals and themed groupings such as Sangiovese, in its red, white and rosé forms. He’s equally passionate about cocktails, and the list on offer at the bar includes classic serves alongside creative, seasonal craft cocktails. The goal is to make it the best bar between Rome and Florence, a destination in its own right.

It’s an attitude that permeates the whole hotel. Only in its second proper season, and as unshowy as it is, Borgo San Vincenzo is already making a name for itself, and on the evidence of recognition already won, it will only help bring more attention to the wines and estates of this lesser-known part of Tuscany.

See the Borgo San Vincenzo website for more details.


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English vineyard with Pinot Noir goes on sale at £1.3m https://www.decanter.com/wine-news/english-vineyard-with-pinot-noir-goes-on-sale-at-1-3m-512513/ Thu, 28 Sep 2023 07:00:16 +0000 https://www.decanter.com/?p=512513 Cobble Hill Vineyard Knight Frank
A view across Cobble Hill Vineyard in Norfolk.

'A rare and exciting opportunity'...

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Cobble Hill Vineyard Knight Frank
A view across Cobble Hill Vineyard in Norfolk.

English vineyard Cobble Hill, near to the north Norfolk coast, has been listed for sale by estate agency Knight Frank, which said it is seeking offers in excess of £1.3m ($1.58m). 

Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Bacchus grape varieties are planted at the 3.6-hectare (ha) vineyard (nine acres), which has chalky soils reminiscent of France’s Champagne region, according to Knight Frank. 

A key part of the deal is an additional 19.4 hectares (48 acres) of land that is considered suitable for vineyards, potentially offering scope for a buyer to significantly expand the estate.

It’s been a boom period for UK wine. Alongside a string of international awards for sparkling and still wines, vineyard plantings have increased 74% in five years, according to WineGB. 

Norfolk wines have won awards, but the region has largely flown under-the-radar as a vineyard setting so far, WineGB data showed.

James Osborn, partner in Knight Frank’s viticulture team, said things are changing. ‘Kent and Sussex have long been the most popular regions for growing vines in the UK. However, the East Anglia coast is fast becoming an established English wine region,’ he said. 

Cobble Hill is a rare and exciting opportunity for a new entrant or established wine grower to own a special part of the UK wine sector.’

Robert Perowne, the driving force behind Cobble Hill Vineyard, first planted vines there in 2016 and is now producing around 20,000 bottles per year alongside winemaker Chris Hatto.

UK vineyards see £480m investment

Around £480m has been invested in UK vineyards and wineries in the past five years, significantly above capital investment levels in the preceding five-year period, according to Strutt & Parker, an estate agency and property consultancy.

The best UK vineyards, such as those planted on ideal sites and with a strong track record of producing high quality grapes, can sell for more than £35,000 per planted acre (0.4ha), said Strutt & Parker’s summer 2023 viticulture report. 

It also reported growing buyer interest in parts of East Anglia, among other areas.

‘Over recent months we have noticed buyers are increasingly looking to Norfolk, Suffolk and Essex, which share many of the same characteristics as East and West Sussex, Kent, Surrey and Hampshire, but where there is perhaps more untapped potential for planting vines,’ the report said.

International wine producers are continuing to take notice. US-based Jackson Family Wines announced a major project to produce English sparkling wines earlier this year.

Where are most UK vineyards located? 

Vineyards are located across many parts of England and Wales, but the top six areas in terms of total vines planted are:

Kent: total hectares 1,033 | 26% of total

West Sussex: 570ha | 15%

East Sussex: 493ha | 13%

Hampshire: 380ha | 10%

Essex: 325ha | 8%

Surrey: 127ha | 3%

Data source: WineGB, 2023

 


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