Unified Italy’s first capital and the historical home of the Savoy dynasty, Turin is one of the country’s most beautiful cities. There’s an air of understated refinement throughout its wide avenues and elegant piazzas surrounded by Baroque palazzi and historic cafes. The Valentino park stretches alongside the river Po, a majestic presence flowing through the centre, while the Mole Antonelliana building with its landmark spire hosts an exceptional cinema museum.

Where to stay

Connect with Turin’s innate style with a stay at Palazzo del Carretto. The beautiful, spacious interiors feature original 17th-century decoration enhanced by occasional contemporary art and design elements. Rooms have coffee machines, apartments have kitchens and there’s private parking.

Where to eat

Among Turin’s favourite winter-warmer dishes are Barolo or Barbera-braised beef and bagna cauda – a hot sauce of garlic, anchovies and olive oil, for dipping raw vegetables. They’re best enjoyed at neighbourhood trattorias of modest city districts such as Porta Palazzo, home to a vast daily market, and San Salvario where Scannabue is popular for its delicious cuisine and attractive dark green-themed decor. Classic dishes include agnolotti (meat-filled pasta), there’s homemade gelato and an intriguing selection of more than 800 wines.

On the eastern side of the river Po, the charming Borgo Po district stretches up the hill with inviting options such as Trattoria Decoratori e Imbianchini, hosted in the appealing house and garden of the historic guild of painters and decorators and serving tasty traditional dishes including much-loved vitello tonnato (veal in tuna sauce) with Piedmont wines.

Back over the river in the city centre, opposite Palazzo Carignano, Italy’s first parliament, one-star Michelin Ristorante Del Cambio dates from the mid-18th century; Italy’s first prime minister Cavour was a regular. Visit the atmospheric wine cellar and opt for the historic dining room or exclusive chef’s table.

Where to drink

Turin is wonderfully well-off for wine bars, and thanks to the Piedmont region’s 19 DOCG, 41 DOC wines and some 30 native grape varieties in all, it can draw on a supply of local wines that’s hard to match for quality and diversity. Piedmont wines are celebrated each autumn with multiple events within the Vendemmia a Torino – Grapes in Town festival held across some of the city’s loveliest locations.

Alta Langa DOCG traditional-method sparklers open most wine lists and while these are Pinot Nero and/or Chardonnay, lesser-known local varieties are ever-more popular. Fresh white wines such as Nascetta, Favorita and Erbaluce are holding their own among well-established Arneis and Cortese, while youthful, fruity reds such as Grignolino, Freisa and Pelaverga are gaining popularity alongside classic Barolo, Barbaresco and other versions of Nebbiolo.

The Rossorubino wine bar-store, run by the Gazzera brothers, stocks a pretty exhaustive range. It’s extremely active with tastings and events, 15 or more wines are available by the glass and there’s a lunchtime menu. Only Piedmont wines are served, many sourced direct from small producers, at relaxed Caffé-Vini Emilio Ranzini (@caffeviniemilioranzini), where the simple, old-style decor is unchanged since the owners’ grandfather’s day. Snacks include platters, fritters and meatballs.

Places to visit

Crossing the river via the Vittorio Emanuele I bridge, the views over the city from the stately 17th-century Villa della Regina are magnificent. One of Turin’s 22 Savoy residences, it was built to the ancient Roman model and Filippo Juvarra contributed to the lavish interior renovation. After 150 years of abandonment, the villa’s Vigna della Regina plot of Freisa vines was restored in the early 2000s by the Balbiano family, whose winery is further out from the city, at Andezeno near Chieri. Since early 2023, vineyard management has passed to the owner of Ristorante Del Cambio and Orsolina28, a winery in Monferrato, east of Turin, that hosts dance retreats and gardening therapy experiences. ‘We will certainly be making a dedicated wine with Vigna della Regina grapes,’ says agronomist Umberto Bonifacino, ‘and we plan to offer vineyard experiences, to share the incredible patrimony of which we’re lucky enough to be custodians.’

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Walter Massa knows no half-measures, and his enthusiasm is well known among fellow wine producers. After all, without his passion Timorasso could not be considered a great white wine today, just one step away from obtaining its own named sub-zone of production. To be honest, without personal enthusiasm, and a certain amount of temerity, Timorasso simply wouldn’t exist.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for Gaia’s eight excellent Timorasso whites

The Colli Tortonesi (‘hills of Tortona’) rise from the Po valley in the southeastern corner of Piedmont, in the province of Alessandria, where the region meets Liguria, Lombardy and Emilia Romagna. Their strategic position was already well known to the Romans, who founded Tortona at the crossroads of two important consular roads.

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Enrico Scavino left school in 1951 so that he could begin helping his father, Paolo at the family estate. Nothing unusual about that, except that Enrico was just 11 years old.

Over 70 years later, he’s still there, although now assisted closely by his daughters Enrica and Elisa. Enrica focuses on marketing and administration, while Elisa has studied viticulture and winemaking. Together, the family has built up one of the most respected estates in Barolo, with an enviable record of consistency.

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Stephen Brook, Vincenzo Arnese and Sara Bachiorri tasted 60 wines, with 3 highly recommended and 40 recommended.

Piedmont Barbera: Panel tasting scores

60 wines tasted

Exceptional 0

Outstanding 0

Highly recommended 3

Recommended 40

Commended 17

Fair 0

Poor 0

Entry criteria: Producers and UK agents were invited to submit current vintage releases of still red Barbera wines from any of the DOC/DOCGs Barbera d’Alba/Superiore, Barbera d’Asti/Superiore, Barbera del Monferrato/Superiore, Nizza or Nizza Riserva

Barbera is a wonderfully versatile grape variety that can be produced in a range of styles, from lean and refreshing to bold, rich and oaky. Above all, it’s a wine designed to be enjoyed with food: its high natural acidity is perfect for cutting through rich Italian dishes such as lasagne. Acidity can be treacherous, however – too much and the wine will be tart and astringent; too little and it can be flabby or drab.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores from the Piedmont Barbera panel tasting

Piedmont Barbera: Panel tasting scores

The judges

Stephen Brook is a Decanter contributing editor and the DWWA Regional Chair for Piedmont. The author of 35 books, he has won several awards for his work in wine.

Vincenzo Arnese is the director of wine at Raffles London at the OWO. Born in Naples, he previously worked at top hotels in Italy, Switzerland and Australia, as well as Alain Ducasse at The Dorchester. He is a DWWA judge, and in 2022 he won the coveted title of Taittinger UK Sommelier of the Year.

Sara Bachiorri is in the buying team at merchant WoodWinters. A DWWA judge since 2013, she was was formerly head sommelier at The Glasshouse in Kew, then Chez Bruce in southwest London, followed by a stint at Italian specialist merchant FortyFive10°.

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Different parts of Italy – as well as other areas of Europe – have faced severe storms, heatwaves, wildfires and floods so far in 2023, leading to devastation of infrastructure and loss of life in some cases.

In vineyards, extreme weather phenomena have added to winemakers’ concerns around the impact of climate change. Italy’s wine harvest may shrink in 2023, said agriculture group Coldiretti, citing recent storms and intense heat linked to climate change.

Extreme weather in Italy: A new normal?

Two anticyclones originating in North Africa – the first dubbed ‘Cerberus’ and the second even more ominously, ‘Charon’ – caused temperatures to soar across southern Europe in June and July, trapped under an oppressive and persistent heat dome.

According to the Copernicus Climate Change Service, parts of Greece, eastern Spain, Sardinia, Sicily and southern Italy reached temperatures in excess of 45°C.

On 24 July, a weather station in Sardinia recorded 48.2°C, close to the record-breaking 48.8°C recorded in Syracuse in Sicily in 2021.

The heat came as UN secretary general António Guterres declared, ‘The era of global warming has ended. The era of global boiling has arrived.’

In recent years, droughts and floods have also become more common in Italy. The 2017 vintage was notoriously hot and dry throughout large swathes of the country, while last summer, the government declared a state of emergency following the worst drought in the country’s history to date.

In the spring of 2023, flooding devastated parts of the country, particularly Emilia-Romagna, where half of the region’s average annual rainfall was reported to have fallen in just 36 hours.

A flood-damaged vineyard in Bagnacavallo, Emilia-Romagna. Credit: Francesca Volpi / Bloomberg via Getty Images

Storms hit northern Italy

More recently, in July, severe storms swept through northern Italy.

Trees were uprooted in Trentino-Alto Adige and electric storms lit up Lake Garda on 24 July, the thunder still rumbling overhead well into the following day with outbreaks of hail reported in Friuli, Langhe and Roero.

The impact on vineyard areas remains uncertain. In its harvest forecast, Coldiretti said potential yields looked stable overall across Piedmont, Lombardy and Veneto, despite the recent storms.

‘Northern Italy has been hit with a frequency of which there is no memory.’

Elisabetta Currado, wine & marketing consultant at Castello di Gabiano and Villa Cambiaso, both in Piedmont, told Decanter, ‘In a matter of minutes, hail can destroy a crop, sometimes even compromising production for the following years. From early July to the present, northern Italy has been hit with a frequency of which there is no memory.

‘You see these black clouds coming in carrying ice that falls, hitting random areas in spots depending on the currents that are created. It’s just a matter of luck. So far we have seen hail pass us by, but it didn’t hit us; we just held our breath until it passed.’

She added, ‘This summer, hailstorms struck at a stage called pre-closing bunch, and in other cases with the berries almost fully ripe (invaiatura). In half an hour of hail, water and wind, some [producers] were more unlucky – as happened in some areas of the Langhe and Roero, where they completely lost production.’

Eduard Bernhart, director of the Südtirol Wein / Vini Alto Adige consortium, told Decanter, ‘We had some hail… everywhere a little bit, but not huge damage at the moment.’

Mildew pressure

Grapes affected by downy mildew. Credit: Lorenza photography / Alamy Stock Photo

For some vineyards in Sicily, mildew has been a significant issue following heavy rain in May and June. The island claims the largest surface area of organically farmed vines in Italy, which makes disease pressure, such as downy mildew, harder to control, and although the subsequent period of extreme heat saved bunches, for others it was too late.

Benjamin Franchetti, of Passopisciaro on Etna, and also Tenuta di Trinoro in Val d’Orcia in Tuscany, said, ‘Especially in Sicily we have had severe issues of peronospora [downy mildew], unseen in the past 20+ years. We expect production to be almost halved for 2023. After months of rain we are now experiencing extremely high temperatures. Let’s see.’

‘The 2023 harvest will be one of the most difficult of the last years,’ commented Arianna Occhipinti. ‘Beside the recent big wave of heat, we had heavy rains in May and June, important for the flowering of our grapes. The start of downy mildew may impact our upcoming production for about 30-35%; the sulphur and copper treatments (the only treatments we carry out in the vineyard) in higher concentrations, were not enough to contain the problem. The 2023 harvest will be lower in quantity but higher in quality.’

‘It is still difficult and premature to make accurate estimates about the quantity and quality [of the 2023 harvest]. Sicilian wine growers know how to manage the effect of climate change, focusing on quality and not quantity,’ underlined Assovini Sicilia president, Mariangela Cambria, who also co-owns Etna winery, Cottanera.

Franchetti added, ‘In Tuscany it has not been as bad. The unusually high levels of rain alternating with very high temperatures have not caused any serious issues. For now we have been spared from the hail and winds which are causing havoc in the north of Italy… for now.’

Some producers in Tuscany anticipate a smaller harvest in 2023, although it is early days and estimates vary considerably, according to a report this week by winenews.it.

It said the Consorzio Chianti Classico currently anticipated losses of around 10-15%, the Consorzio Brunello di Montalcino expected 5% losses and the Consorzio Bolgheri e Bolgheri Sassicaia estimated hypothetical losses of perhaps as much as 20%.

Making adjustments

Rising temperatures and increasing occurrences of drought in recent years have caused winemakers to rethink how to manage their vines and how to treat the grapes in the winery.

Many producers, from Piedmont to Bolgheri to Sicily, have stated that harvest today is around one month earlier than 20 to 30 years ago, highlighting the increase in temperatures and consequent advanced ripening of the grapes compared to the 1990s.

Marilisa Allegrini, of the eponymous Valpolicella family, told Decanter recently during a visit to the family’s Villa della Torre property in Fumani that the viticultural team would usually carry out a green harvest at this time of year.

However, the sporadic storms interrupting periods of extreme heat have forced them to wait and see what happens. Allegrini pointed out grapes that had succumbed to sunburn and, although she explained that they currently have an overproduction, they can’t yet risk dropping too much fruit in case of further losses from either sunburn or mildew.

Even if storms do not directly damage fruit, they can still create extra work for producers. ‘The pruning of the hailstormed branches has to be done,’ Currado said. ‘Even when damage seems limited, the vine still suffers from a slowdown in vegetative activity and must be treated with disinfectant products to heal scars and prevent mould and funghi from entering the vine.

‘Effective natural products are now available that can be used even on farms like us that work organically. Avoiding the ineffective anti-hail cannons, the only useful prevention is coverage with anti-hail nets, along with insurance. However, they represent a cost justifiable only with highly profitable productions.’

Canopy management is a technique that has become fundamental to ensuring healthy grapes. Whilst in the past the leaves could be cut back to expose the bunches to the sun for even ripening, in today’s warmer climates the leaves surrounding the bunches can instead be utilised to cast shade and prevent sunburn.

Strategically selected leaves can also be removed to slow down the process of photosynthesis, helping to curtail the swift advance of sugar ripeness in relation to physiological ripeness.

Additionally, cover crops between rows of vines can help to shade the ground and prevent the reflection of sunlight, which can occur on lighter soils, in addition to the benefits such crops can bring to a vineyard’s biodiversity and increasing nitrogen levels in the soil.

In his Barolo 2017 vintage report for Decanter Premium, Aldo Fiordelli noted that producers in that infamous drought year reduced the maceration time to avoid over-extraction. Some producers also opted for commercial yeasts over indigenous strains, he noted, to better cope with the higher potential alcohol of the wines.

During a masterclass hosted by Gaia Gaja on the family’s Bolgheri estate, Ca’ Marcanda, in 2022 in London, Gaja explained that the estate was transitioning from cordon to Guyot training in order to produce grapes with less concentration and more freshness.

Gaja noted that while Guyot training was associated with higher volume production, climate change has enabled the estate to produce quality grapes using the system.

Italy’s hillsides and mountains are also key if temperatures continue to rise, and some denominations, such as Brunello di Montalcino, have already amended or deleted pre-existing restrictions on maximum altitude for viticulture. Elsewhere, producers are seeking high altitude vineyard sites even if they are not accepted within the DOC/DOCG; it’s possible that we will see an increase of IGT bottlings from producers in the future.

Finally, east-facing vineyards are gaining a voice as traditional south-facing exposures risk producing over-ripe fruit. Capturing the morning sun while avoiding the worst of the afternoon rays helps producers to retain elegance and complexity in their wines despite rising temperatures.

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Piedmont is a captivating region brimming with diverse experiences: you can explore the rolling vineyards, indulge in wine tastings at world-renowned wineries, and savour the delectable delights of local cuisine. Continue reading for inspiration for an unforgettable trip.

Things to do in Piedmont

Explore Turin

Piedmont‘s capital, Turin, stands apart from the typical Venice-Florence-Rome tourist circuit, offering a more relaxed and authentic experience. Despite being lesser-known, Turin is a hidden gem, boasting sophistication and a rich cultural heritage. Its architecture ranges from impressive Baroque buildings to elegant Art Nouveau structures. The city houses a diverse array of museums, historic cafés, and an abundance of fantastic restaurants, where you can indulge in the region’s renowned wines and cuisine.

Discover Alba and its Surroundings

Alba, a delightful town in Piedmont, serves as an ideal base for exploring the nearby wine regions of Barolo, Barbaresco, and Roero. With its weekly markets and various shops, Alba exudes a charming atmosphere.

One of the best ways to experience the beauty of the region is by taking a leisurely walk from Alba to Barbaresco, following the picturesque Tanaro river and passing through famous vineyards. Covering approximately seven kilometres, this scenic route will lead you to Barbaresco, where you can treat yourself to a delicious lunch at the traditional Antica Torre trattoria. Alternatively, you can enjoy a wine tasting at the Enoteca del Barbaresco, which boasts an impressive selection of wines from 146 estates producing Barbaresco.

If your visit coincides with the autumn season, don’t miss the opportunity to hunt for Alba’s legendary white truffles while taking in the breathtaking landscape. Be sure to savour your truffle treasure finely shaved over a generous serving of Tajarin pasta tossed with butter and sage.

Credit: Lucia Gherra / Unsplash

Places to Visit in Piedmont

Explore G.D. Vajra Winery

Perched above the charming town of Barolo, the G.D. Vajra estate is a must-visit destination. While advance reservations are necessary, you can look forward to a heartfelt reception and an exquisite vista showcasing the best of the Langhe region. The winery’s offerings include a delightful array of wines, ranging from the renowned Dolcetto and Barbera to the celebrated Barolo, along with the opportunity to discover the lesser-known but equally fascinating Freisa grape.

Sorpasso Winery: An Alpine Gem

For a unique and off-the-beaten-path experience, venture towards the quaint region of Carema, nestled along the border of Val d’Aosta. Prepare to be captivated by the breathtaking landscape of terraced vineyards that gracefully ascend the mountain foothills. To savour the essence of Alpine Nebbiolo crafted in this mesmerising setting, make your way to Sorpasso Winery, where the talented and promising winemakers, Vittorio Garda and Martina Ghirardo, who are at the helm of this budding winery, await to share their Alpine-inspired creations with you.

Where to eat in Piedmont

Dine at La Coccinella

‘One of my favourite restaurants, the cosy La Coccinella in Serravalle Langhe is worth the detour to Alta Langa.’ – Michaela Morris.

Nestled in the picturesque Serravalle Langhe, La Coccinella awaits as a true culinary gem in Piedmont. This charming family-owned restaurant, skilfully managed by the talented Dellaferrara brothers, effortlessly masters the roles of chef, maître d’, and sommelier, ensuring a seamless dining experience.

Get ready to embark on a journey of taste as you savour their soul-satisfying dishes, thoughtfully curated to delight your palate. To elevate the experience further, explore their extensive wine selection, expertly chosen to complement the culinary experience.

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Who would have imagined that mature Vernaccia di San Gimignano could offer an almost Burgundian combination of luscious creaminess and mouthwatering salinity at age 25?

The 1997 Carato by Montenidoli left assembled professionals in awe during a masterclass held as part of the annual anteprima event in San Gimignano earlier this year.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for 10 ageworthy Italian white wines

Vernaccia di San Gimignano was the first Italian white wine to carry the Riserva designation, so the fact that it ages gracefully should be no surprise. Its actual potential, however, isn’t always evident when sampling young examples, which often hit the market too early and display either simple fermentative aromas or unintegrated oak.

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Gaia credits New York and American wine writer Burton Anderson with pushing fine Italian wine to the forefront of the world’s awareness. The waves of Italian immigrants to the United States wanted a taste of their homeland that was not present in the bulk wines from Italy that dominated the market for much of the 1970s and 80s. Gaja has been importing its wines to the US for 45 years.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for all 10 wines tasted at the Five Generations of Gaja masterclass in New York

Anderson’s 1980 book Vino: The Wines and Winemakers of Italy spotlighted the country’s fine wine producers. It was a catalyst for New York-based importers, restaurants and sommeliers seeking to learn more about the country’s top producers.

Wines tasted at the Five Generations of Gaja masterclass in New York:

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Forget about ordinary truffles; we’re talking about the extraordinary ones — the coveted white truffle. These gems have become a gourmet sensation, adorning everything from fries and pizza to mac and cheese and mashed potatoes. But we’re here to delve into the world of the rarest truffles, where cultivation is impossible, complexity reigns, and a little bit goes a long way.

Chefs will attest to the transformative power of white truffles, especially when paired with local delicacies like risotto or Piedmontese steak. Imagine the elevated flavours and aromas that await and the wine pairings to be had. 

In the northwestern region of Piedmont, Italy, lies a haven for the elusive white truffle — the forest of Alba. Thanks to its unique microclimate and optimal soil conditions, this region has become the ultimate breeding ground for these prized fungi. Gone are the days of grappling with a pig’s snout to unearth your bounty; now, truffle hunting is a relaxed and enjoyable affair guided by well-trained dogs.

If you’re an adventurer at heart and yearn to explore this iconic region, its wines, and its culinary treasures, join Decanter in Piedmont this October for an unforgettable bucket-list trip.

Indulge in exquisite dining experiences featuring the region’s finest dishes enhanced by white truffles. Immerse yourself in intimate local feasts that celebrate the essence of Piedmont. Your journey will be enriched by private wine tours and tastings, where you’ll discover the iconic grape varieties of the region. Sightseeing and leisure time are also part of the itinerary, allowing you to fully embrace the enchanting surroundings. And of course, a thrilling excursion awaits — white truffle hunting in the forest of Alba.

Take a moment to peruse the brochure below and secure your spot today, whether you’re a solo traveller or a couple seeking an extraordinary adventure. Make this the year you cross something off your bucket list. 

DOWNLOAD THE BROCHURE 

BOOK NOW

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Until at least the 1990s Piedmont was, perhaps surprisingly, best known for its sparkling wines. Nowadays, of course, thanks to the meteoric rise of Barolo, Barbaresco, Barbera et al, the region is widely viewed as red wine country.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for six Alta Langa sparkling wines to try

This, however, ignores a strong history of producing bubbles that dates back to long before the middle of the 19th century, when Carlo Gancia began using the Champagne method (‘metodo classico’) to ferment Moscato grapes from vineyards near Asti. This practice in turn built on the local tradition going back to the 16th century of making ‘filtrato dolce’, a low-alcohol, bubbly and sweet white wine filtered through hessian sacks to block fermentation, which subsequently morphed into today’s Asti/Moscato d’Asti DOCGs.

Six Alta Langa sparkling wines to try

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One of the most iconic names in all of Italian wine is Gaja .

The estate is located in the Barbaresco area of ​​Piedmont and has a five generation-tradition of winemaking. It is a winery that has been at the forefront of innovation in Italy, as it was the first winery to introduce small oak barrels to its aging regimen, to produce single-variety wine in Italy, and to use Bordeaux varieties in its lineup.

Gaja was started by Giovanni Gaja, a grape grower, in the 19th century. His great-grandson, Angelo Gaja, currently helms the estate and is its patriarch. But by no means does he run the estate unilaterally. He uses the vast expertise of his children, Rossana, Giovanni and Gaia, to inform the winery’s decision making and ensure its future. His daughter, Gaia, in particular, is his confidant. She is Gaja’s ambassador, acting as the face of the brand for a new (and always devoted) generation of discerning wine drinkers.

At this year’s Decanter Fine Wine Encounter  (DFWE) in New York, Gaia will be on hand at the Gaja masterclass tasting through the winery’s extensive range. She’ll lead an exploration of the terroir that makes it so unique, and what’s new and next for the brand. But first, we caught up with Gaia for a short chat in advance of her appearance at the DFWE.

What makes New York a great city for wine?

New York is a great city; it’s very competitive and ambitious in every sector, including wine. In New York, many professionals are at the top of their game, leading and creating new trends.

New York is on an international stage. Here, new fashions and new philosophies of thought are discovered. It is a city that inspires but is also open to new things and to be inspired. This has always been the relationship between New York and Italy.

What are you most excited to see at the DFWE?

This is my first time attending the DFWE, so I don’t really know what to expect! But it will be a moment of sharing between true wine lovers.

I am looking forward to seeing old friends and making new friends.

Why do you think Americans love Italian wine? 

The US has been the most important country in affirming Italian fine wine production. It was the first country that recognised the dignity of Italian wines and encouraged Italian artisanal producers to do better. It can be attributed to the massive immigration of Italians to the US that favoured an appreciation for Italian cuisine and fine Italian products. Still, it is also the work of the US press.

In the 1970s and 1980s, inexpensive, bulk-produced Italian wines dominated imports (from 1980 to 1985, Lambrusco Le Riunite was the #1 imported wine in the US with 11 million cases per year). But despite the idea that Italian wine had to be cheaper than the cheapest French wine to sell, some wine journalists also realised that there was a growing number of fine wine producers charting their own course in Italy.

It has been fundamental. For example, the work of an American journalist, Burton Anderson, who in 1980 released Vino, the first book entirely devoted to Italian fine wine. It was a milestone for fine Italian wine. Importers, collectors, sommeliers, as well as other journalists, took Burton Anderson’s book as an inspiration. They soon started to realise that Italy was a world to be discovered.

The US is a historic market for us, where we developed deep connections and relations over 45 years of importing our wines.

How is Gaja targeting a new generation of wine drinkers?

New generations are pulling away from convention and are buying with more awareness of the fundamental values ​​of a brand.

Considering that we have no social media presence and not even a website, we are not really targeting the new generation from a communication point of view. Still, I think our values ​​are unchanged; we have always stood up for an artisanal approach, a ‘thinking different’ attitude, originality and a sense of place, with a long-term view.

What do you think is so enduring about Italian wine?

Italy can be a strong voice against the homogenisation of taste. It is the bearer of artisanal values, and its wines can be ambassadors of humanism.

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Either way you look at it, 2018 was not really a Riserva vintage in Piedmont’s Barbaresco DOCG. There was the spring frost, the hail on 17 July, then a good deal of rain on top of the warm climate. These challenges beset producers desperate for a large harvest after the drought-like 2017 vintage.

The hot weather allied to the rainfall should have been perfect for higher yields in 2018, but instead it resulted in dilute wines in the worst examples, and a light, graceful Barbaresco for more immediate drinking in the best.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for 11 recommended Barbaresco Riserva 2018 wines

Barbaresco Riserva 2018 recommendations

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Our story begins in the southeastern strip of Piedmont that borders the province of Genoa in Liguria: this is Gavi wine country.

The old Salt Route passed through here, following the Via Postumia Roman road on its way up to Pavia and ultimately the country’s far northeast; and in the 12th century, the small town of Gavi became a crucial defensive outpost for the Genoese, as evidenced by its imposing fortress.

Here, a unique encounter takes place: the wind from the Ligurian sea, about 30km to the south, blows up to the snow-capped Apennines, caressing villages, castles and hills, woods and vineyards on its way and blessing the air with a special light.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for 10 brilliant Gavi wines

See notes and scores for 10 of Gavi’s very best wines

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Italy’s great wines are some of the most coveted in the world, and with good reason: they have incredible heritage and pedigree, are often capable of ageing for decades, and, above all else, they’re delicious.

Italian immigrants were largely responsible for the modern-day California and Washington wine industries, many of them bringing Old World winemaking techniques to the ‘New World’, as well as introducing Italian varieties to the American viticultural landscape.

This connection between the old and the new would serve as the beginning of an enduring, centuries-long collaboration – one that would bring American sensibilities to Italian wine brands, and Italian quality and heritage to American wineries.

That cross-cultural exchange is what we see here, in three wine labels that marry both Italian and American traditions. In one case, quite literally.

Scroll down for tasting notes and scores of six wines from Italian & American partnerships

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Clear skies, crystal-clear rivers and clean air: the 2020 vintage started while the world was in lockdown. Going to work in the vineyards was one of the few permissible activities at the time (lucky vignaioli!).

The most genuine producers confess to having taken extraordinarily good care of their vines during the Covid pandemic like never before. No fairs, no visiting importers, no tastings.

Barbaresco wines from 2020 emerged as graceful with unexpected, sweet tannins.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for the top Barbaresco 2020 wines

Tasting notes and scores for Aldo’s top Barbaresco 2020 wines:

The following wines all scores 93 points or above

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Austerity is not all the same: Nebbiolo is more austere than Pinot Noir and Sangiovese; Barolo is more austere than Barbaresco; the stern texture of Monforte and Serralunga is different from that of the village of Barolo, which itself is different from La Morra.

Austerity aside, Barolo Riserva are also less ready to drink, mostly due to their traditionally higher extraction. However, if there is a specific justification for the more austere character of a wine, it can be found in the vintage – and 2017 was that kind of vintage.

Scroll down to see the top-scoring Barolo 2017 Riserva wines

View all 26 Barolo 2017 Riserva from Aldo’s vintage report

View the score table with all 165 Barolo 2019 & Barolo 2017 Riservas from Aldo’s report

The 2017 vintage

Top-scoring Barolo Riserva 2017 wines

The wines below all scored 96 points or above 

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Scroll down to see the top-scoring Barolo 2019 wines

The 2019 vintage

The adjective ‘classic’ can only partly be intended, as it is in Bordeaux, to indicate wines that are less concentrated. Here in Barolo, ‘classic’ refers to traditional, old-fashioned or even old-school styles – a ‘classic’ vintage is more austere than supple.

Barolo 2019: Top-scoring wines

The following 25 wines all scored 96 points or above

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Merchants making up La Place de Bordeaux distribution system are continuing to take on new fine wines from around the world and the latest round of ‘beyond Bordeaux’ international releases has arrived in March 2023.

In Bordeaux itself, this month has marked the first release of Château Latour 2015 and is set to also see Château d’Yquem 2020’s market debut on the 23 March (tasting note coming soon).

Yet the rise of both March and September as key release periods for international wines sold via La Place de Bordeaux increasingly gives collectors and drinkers plenty to consider.

See our round-up of debut releases below, including insight into the wines and background on the market.

Scroll down to see our top-scoring international fine wine releases via La Place de Bordeaux in March 2023

See the full March 2023 releases score table here

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Tasting through Ceretto’s Barolo and Barbaresco portfolio is both a hedonistic and educational experience. Few wineries offer an equally varied line-up of excellent wines from some of Piedmont’s most famous vineyards.

Scroll down to see tasting notes & scores for Ceretto’s Barolo and Barbaresco wines

Owning over 160 hectares across three estates, Ceretto is a large producer by Langhe standards, but it doesn’t solely rely on economies of scale. The Cerettos – Bruno, Marcello, and their siblings Alessandro, Federico, Lisa and Roberta – are among the most energetic and forward-thinking entrepreneurs in the Italian wine industry.

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The Italian peninsula has historically benefited from the sea’s mitigating effect on the climate, whether hot or cold. Not by chance, the major anomalies of warming trends in 2020 came from the more continental towns such as Perugia (Umbria) at +2°C, Bologna (Emilia Romagna) +1.8°C and Turin (Piedmont) +1.6°C (source: Istat).

There are inland appellations, however, where water’s mitigating effect remains due to proximity to the lakes: for example, lake Iseo for Franciacorta; lake Garda for Lugana, Valpolicella, Bardolino; lake Maggiore for Alto Piemonte; and lake Trasimeno for Montepulciano. To put it simply, the morphology and geography of Italy make this country naturally resilient to global warming. What’s different today is the threat of extremes.

Incidences of heat extremes are increasing: the average temperature in 2020 was 16.3°C, +0.3°C compared with the average for the decade 2006-2015, while total annual rainfall dropped by 132mm. Average annual temperatures show a rising long-term trend – the 1971-2000 average of +1.2°C (compared with the previous 30 years) being just below the 1.5°C limit required by the Glasgow Climate Pact agreed at COP26, November 2021. The highest levels, however, were registered in the most recent 2011-2020 decade (Istat). ‘We are close to the point of no return, but still at the breaking point,’ says Carlin Petrini, Piedmont-born founder of the Slow Food movement.

Record-setting water temperatures of 27°-28°C at the start of August 2022 (source: Consorzio Lamma, environmental monitoring and modelling laboratory) along the coast of Portofino in the northwest down to the Tuscan archipelago caused concern last summer: ‘We have never had numbers like this in hundreds of years,’ admits climatologist Tommaso Torrigiani.

The fourth threat

On 18 August 2022, a storm with winds reported as exceeding 140kph from St-Florent on the island of Corsica struck the northern portion of the Tuscan coast and Levante in Liguria – a frightening experience for anybody caught in its path.

‘Traditionally speaking, in viticulture we have always faced three threats – drought, frost and hail – to which today we have to add a fourth: the storms,’ confirms Alberto Antonini, owner of Tuscan estate Poggiotondo and one of Italy’s most authoritative consultant oenologists.

Piedmont

The new Gaja winery under construction in June 2021 in Alta Langa, where the producer has invested in new higher-altitude vineyards predominantly for white varieties

Most Italian producers agree that the turning point of climate change for viticulture was the 1997 vintage. Elio Altare, after 56 vintages at his estate in Barolo, explains: ‘We struggled between 1992 and 1994, fluctuated from 1996 but the change of the last 25 years started here. Higher temperatures are the most influential factor for each phenological stage of a vine. Today, each of these stages is anticipated. The main disadvantage of the heat is increased potential water stress for the vine, while the advantage is a reduced need for treatments for the likes of mildew in the vineyards.’

Angelo Gaja recorded noticeably warmer vintages beginning in 2008 but maintains ‘not enough time has passed yet to make predictions’. He admits, however, that: ‘The wines of this century will be different because, in the past, nine out of 10 vintages were not properly ripe, but nevertheless they were ageworthy. Once we had higher acidity, while today we have sweeter tannins, although no fewer of them.’

Gaja, who in 2021 completed his 60th harvest, still remembers the 1961 vintage: ‘It was very hot, with grapes harvested on 27-28 September, and wines at 14.5% alcohol which are still drinking great today.’ Gaja has his own view, but in the long term most producers agree that ‘to see first-hand what the Langhe was like 50 years ago, you just need to drive 15 minutes farther towards Alta Langa.’ There is excitement over this hilly area’s sparkling wines and, since 2017, Gaja has invested in more than 30ha at 650m-700m in Trezzo Tinella, mostly planted to Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay, with the aim of exploiting the favourable conditions to produce top-quality still white wines with plenty of freshness. ‘Last year we also planted one hectare of Nebbiolo, but not everyone in the family agreed,’ Gaia Gaja admitted to me – her father Angelo evidently thinks the higher altitude is not ideal for the variety.

Lombardy

The warmer climate has been beneficial for grape ripening in some regions, including Oltrepò Pavese. Credit: Roberto Lo Savio / Alamy Stock Photo

Another comparison with the Langhe lies in Valtellina DOCG, in the north of the Lombardy region. Danilo Drocco – managing director and winemaker at Nino Negri and president of the Consorzio Valtellina body – worked with the legendary Beppe Colla in the Langhe in the 1960s.

‘The wines we are producing now in Valtellina thanks to climate change remind me of Prunotto [Barolo] in 1961, 1964 and 1967,’ Drocco told me during my last visit. But Valtellina – a narrow, east-west valley in the pre-Alpine foothills – is today facing a severe drought problem. ‘We have rock in the subsoil so we absolutely must work with the pivotal Vitis rupestris rootstock and work vineyards planted according to the girapoggio method [vines planted in rows that follow the contours of the ground] in order to preserve water. Today, we are harvesting the grapes for Sfursat di Valtellina [made using the drying process] earlier to keep the alcohol lower.’

The Oltrepò Pavese DOC sub-region, with its predominant red varieties Barbera and Croatina, seems to be experiencing an improvement in maturation due to the warmer climate. The niche and austere-style wines of the Buttafuoco Storico producers’ group in Buttafuoco DOC (separated from the Oltrepò Pavese DOC in 2010) are becoming more and more refined, as well as an exquisite example of the quality improvements that can be achieved by refocusing on traditional detailed practices in the vineyard.

For the region’s famous sparkling wine, Franciacorta’s 2021 harvest began in the first week of August, despite the cool breezes from lake Iseo and Val Camonica valley. Here, the ancient indigenous white grape Erbamat – cultivated since the 16th century – is now permitted at a maximum proportion of 10% for all styles except for Satèn (meaning ‘silky’, the Chardonnay-based, softly sparkling brut bottled at a lower pressure). Erbamat is a late-ripening grape which matures almost one month later than Chardonnay, and its zesty character can be extremely useful for balancing some of these great sparkling wines.

Northeast

From left: Mario Pojer and Fiorentino Sandri

The lake influence is equally crucial when talking about Garda, which laps the shores of significant regions in Veneto and Lugana DOC and points to the north into Trentino. ‘The lake works like air conditioning for our vineyards,’ remarks Mario Pojer of Pojer e Sandri, based northeast of Trento city. ‘We are 6°-7°C cooler compared with other regions. In 2003 [Europe’s heatwave vintage], we registered 33°C rather than 40°C.’ Nevertheless, he adds, for the first time in 47 years: ‘We had to bring forward harvest by 20 days. We are going up in altitude, from 450m to 650m with Pinot Noir; Cabernet Sauvignon, which in the past struggled to ripen, now does so without any trouble.’

In Tramin, a little north just into Alto Adige, I recently visited Martin Foradori Hofstätter. In 2019, he planted Pinot Noir vines at about 850m ‘surrounded by the Dolomites’ at a density of almost 10,000 vines per hectare, in order to preserve a tense and classic style. He showed me his logbook with the dates of bud break, flowering, veraison and harvest from 1990 to 2022. While the harvest dates have been getting progressively earlier since 1990, bud break did not occur any earlier until 2007/2008, which suggests that the winters here have now started to become warmer: an often-overlooked aspect of climate change in viticulture.

Tuscany

In Tuscany, as with many of the coastal zones, there is far less opportunity to go higher in altitude, and thus early-ripening varieties often struggle more. It therefore comes as no surprise that the legendary Masseto, despite its cool blue-clay soils, is no longer made from 100% Merlot as of the 2019 vintage; it is now supplemented with a drop of Cabernet Franc (10% in 2019) which, in my opinion, broadens the shoulders of this marvellous Bolgheri wine.

Sangiovese also seems to be sensitive to the warmer climate, and several instances of quercetin precipitation (a polyphenolic compound, caused mainly by UV stress, which can form insoluble precipitates in a wine) have been reported when the grape is vinified by itself.

Elsewhere in the region, while heavy rainfalls helped Vino Nobile in Montepulciano during the mostly dry 2022 vintage, and the altitude of the highest spots saved places such as Montalcino, the area gaining most benefit from global warming appears to be Chianti Classico. It has shed its more acidic, austere character, which traditionally was particularly evident in its wines in their youth.

Nevertheless, Martino Manetti of Montevertine at Radda in Chianti told me during my last visit that he purchased a north-facing vineyard in Radda to keep the alcohol level of his stunning Le Pergole Torte at its historic low levels. Additionally, Paolo De Marchi at Isole e Olena, west of Radda, acknowledged a resurgence in the use of terraces, to counteract the risks of topsoils being washed away in rittochino vineyards [rows arranged facing down the steepest part of the slope] during storms that deposit a lot of water in just a few minutes.

Sicily

‘The first concern in Sicily is not for the drought,’ states Alessio Planeta, ‘but for the violence of the extremes. We registered 48°C in August 2021, then in October, Catania was flooded.’ Such phenomena are actually customary on Mount Etna. In Milo, on the eastern edge of a muntagna, as the locals here call the volcano, the rainfall in one day can amount to the same amount as an entire year in Noto in the island’s far southeast, according to Salvo Foti of I Vigneri, one of Etna’s most talented winemakers and a freelance lecturer in oenology.

After 37 years of surveying, Foti believes that the underlying issue for the red Nerello Mascalese variety in terms of global warming is humidity. ‘Everything changed with the 2003 vintage [on Etna, 2003 was incredibly wet at the end of the summer]. After that vintage, with several days of warmth and Sirocco winds, we registered a lot
of humidity. The soil here drains well but the ability of the grape to dry out after the rain has decreased a lot. It’s like hanging clothes out to dry after washing; with humidity, it takes much longer.’

‘In Sicily, we compared cordon-trained Merlot planted on Vitis riparia rootstocks with (indigenous white) Carricante trained in bush vines on Ruggeri [rootstock],’ says consultant Antonini. ‘Merlot is a humidity-loving variety with a rootstock not intended for drought, and with a demanding training system that shows a lot of water stress, whereas Carricante isn’t. Merlot in this manner was like a golf course in the desert. Today we must force the roots of the vines to dig deep in order to minimise the extremes of the climate and encourage it to reach the best quality nutrients.

‘So in my opinion,’ he concludes, ‘we need to work with an overall approach that starts from the soil, including pivotal rootstocks and grapes suited for drought-like conditions. The most resistant varieties are usually the indigenous ones in specific regions, for example Carricante in Sicily.’

Italian viticulture is experiencing new threats including record temperatures, drought, storms and humidity that each contribute to today’s vintages becoming less consistent, year by year. A warmer climate seems to have been more positive than negative in most of the regions so far, due to the naturally resilient geography of the country. But Italy’s greatest hope of preserving this natural virtue may well be to nourish and preserve the biodiversity of its indigenous grapes.

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The post Beating the heat: How Italy's winemakers are responding to climate change appeared first on Decanter.